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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 2:16 am 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Thu Jan 03, 2008 2:43 pm
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Location: United States
Hello Listers,

I'm working on my first guitar and have a question re. the amount of clearance b/t the top of my bridge and a straight edge laid accross the frets along the center of the FB. According to my books and the O'Brien DVD, I should have about 1mm or slightly more than 1/32. I have 1/16. If I run the straight edge down the low e string lie and shim it to 3/32 at the 12 fret, it looks like I'll end up with a way tall saddle- duh.

My bridge is part of an LMI kit (the pyramid bridge). The bridge thickness is 9.7mm in the center, and tapers to 9mm in the high and low e string paths. Is glueing an ebony shim to the bottom of of the bridge to give myself a couple more mm's an acceptable solution?

I hate to think I need to reset the neck, or pull the frets and take the FB down :O(

Thanks,
Chris


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 2:20 am 
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Location: Abbotsford, BC Canada
Chris, I shoot for 1/32-1/16" over the top of the bridge with the fretted neck attached. You have to remember that the pull of the strings will pull the top up a bit so don't worry about how high the saddle is going to be right now, you will be fine.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 7:47 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Fri Nov 02, 2007 9:49 am
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Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
First name: Hesh
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Chris my friend I think that what Rod says is right. My one concern is that when you sand the bridge on the top to radius the bottom of the bridge it is likely that you will lose a bit of bridge height too in this process - this will increase the gap for the straight edge.

Also keep in mind that what you want to see is 1/2" of space between the bottom of the low E string and the guitar top when measured along the leading edge (face) of the bridge.

There is a neck installation and and angle setting tutorial in the archives that if you are interested I can find the link and post it for you.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 9:20 am 
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Sounds OK to me too .... right on the upper end, but good.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 1:59 pm 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Thu Jan 03, 2008 2:43 pm
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Location: United States
Rod True wrote:
Chris, I shoot for 1/32-1/16" over the top of the bridge with the fretted neck attached. You have to remember that the pull of the strings will pull the top up a bit so don't worry about how high the saddle is going to be right now, you will be fine.



Thanks everyone -- much appreciated. I'll go ahead as is. Hopefully the profiling of the underside of the bridge will remove minimal material; my top is 28' so, hopefully, less than a mm of stock removal will be required.

Chris


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 3:29 pm 
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Old Growth Brazilian
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Joined: Tue Dec 28, 2004 1:56 am
Posts: 10707
Location: United States
Some schools of thought are that you should set the fret plane flush to the top of the bridge. Others say set the fret plane 1/32 to 1/16" above the bridge. But what Hesh mentioned is equally as important. ½” from the bottom of the 6th sting (low E) seems to be a good string clearance for a well balanced tone.

Since I do not fret till I have the Fretboard and neck attached I set my fretboard plane flush to the top of my bridge. That means that after fretting and dressing my frets the fret plane will be between .030”-.040” above the bridge. Anywhere between .03-.08 will work fine. Get over .08 and your saddle starts to get too tall and you have a too sever brake angle between the saddle and pins.


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