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Hello again,

I decided to build another Archtop. This time I am trying my hand at inlaying the fretboard and headstock along with binding the board and headstock too. #1 only had body binding. So the headtock binding is a little trickier due to the shape as well as getting it to line up with the fretboard. F holes are sort of a combination of things...but simular to a fairly rare "framus" model from the 40's. Headstock design is based on something I saw from a very earlier D'Angelico model from the 30's. Only one I have seen with that headstock. Mine is close, but has some different curves/lines...same idea.

Walnut back/sides and a laminated Walnut/Poplar neck. The top is douglas fur. Sorry no front shots of the top...only the backside. The bracing is very simular to how Gibson does their L5 carve top. With the humbucker pickup routes the top looses a lot of the strength. The bracing helps alot near the routes.

Sorry for the bad pics!

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Joe

Hi, Joe. Very interesting to see your progress shots. It looks like it'll have a lot of visual character. I like your fingerboard inlays, in particular. They remind me a little of some of the old, vintage Epiphones I've seen pictured. I've got to learn how to do that! Patrick.

Hey Joe, Where you goin' with that arch top in your hand?

Nice to see some progress. Did you tame that split prone Fir top or is this a new one?

Steve

Hi Pat and Steve.

I was able to tame this top from splitting. I also used the Gibson L5 bracing pattern on the lower bought. This stiffend the top up in that area. I was concerned that the downward pressure would crack the quartersawn top even though it has a high arch. I know everyone says "quartersawn" is strongest and the way to go...but I don't pariticularly agree with that though in regards to an archtop. Quartsawn is prone to cracking between the grain line...which we see a lot on flat tops. I have yet to see a flatsawn top crack like that! It may be very strong for bracing, but so far I find that once it is thinned down to .125 to .200 its not so strong anymore. This douglas fur top was very stiff until I got it down to 1/8"-3/16" then it almost became jelly. Add the f holes and pup holes and it need a lot of bracing to support the top. Its once again flexiable but stiff. I think it should work fine.

The cloud inlays are very reminisant of the Gretsch Hump inlays used in 56 as well as others from that time frame. The F holes are quite modern, yet I found something simular on an old Archtop from the 40's.

Steve, I re-did the binding on the headstock per our converstation. Looks much better and I am glad I took your advice.

All in all this one is comming out very nice. I've learned a lot and made lots of new mistakes, but I have about 1/3rd of the time in this one as I did the first one. I am sitting at about 35-40 hours into this one with the top glued on. I just need to do some final sanding before I can cut the binding channel. I need to cut the dovetail, bind the body and do final sanding prep for finish.

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Joe

Joe, I can see that we are going to have to have another Midwest/Illinois get together soon so I can get my hands on your archtops. Looking very good!

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"Building guitars looks hard, but it's actually much harder than it looks." Tom Buck

Very nice! Is the back carved? I can't really tell.

yes. Full 1" deep carved top and back. Back is flatsawn walnut that opened a beautiful grain patern like a butterfly. Its quite stunning!

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Joe

Here is a shot of the front and back of the guitar now that the top is glued on. No dovetail or binding channel yet...





And a side profile..Not as easy to see, but the arches are pretty tall on this one..

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Joe

Joe:

Nice job. I'll be watching for more progress. Will you be doing a sunburst?

Also, I am relatively new to building guitars and live in mid-western Illinois. If there is a loosely organized group that occassionally gets together, I would like to participate.

Thanks


Dan

Dan,

My first one was a sunburst. I really liked spraying that finish, but I am not sure about this one. The back will most likely be one color only (not a burst). If I do the top in maybe a wine color, I will tint the back and body with the same color too...but just for a tint. If I sunburst the top, the back and sides will probably just be a solid translucent color. I do not have a scheme for it yet.

There are about 4 or 5 of us up here in the chicago burbs. We have been considering having a Saturday or Sunday afternoon gathering soon. Would you be close enough to join us? Where abouts are you located...cause there are more builders located in Southern Ill too.

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Joe