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Mini table saw for cutting fish paper or veneer purfling strips. It started life as a harbor freight chop saw. (~$25 if I remember correctly.) Friendly Plastic holds the melamine table in place.

Hey Bob- How is the blade on that unit, does it cut smoothly? What size is the blade? I recently bought the mini table saw but the blade is less than desirable...

Jim

I have one of those I have used to precut purfling miters for complex rosettes. The blade cuts fairly smooth as long as you keep the resin cleaned off. It is a toy construction wise, but one that can be worked with

Jim, here's a link http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42805

It's ~.020 thick.

I've only used it to rip fish paper and it does a decent job. But, if you need something that leaves a smooth finish I don't think this is what you're searching for.

Really? I was just sitting thinking about how to cut fish paper (fiber paper). This really works?

Thats a hoot!

Mike

Here's on I recently finished.



Inspiration is pretty obvious, but being in the UK I couldn't justify the expense on the real thing, not once shipping and customs were factored in. I've fretted one neck so far, and it works very well. The fret caul holder arbour is glass filled nylon, and the neck caul is a teak offcut, from a piece I rescued from a skip. The jaw which supports the neck caul, and allows it to slide back and forwards is cut from a door-closer swing arm, another piece destined for the bin, before I liberated it.

The donor tool came from Screwfix, as part of a 3 piece set, for all of £8.99. The flat clamp, intended for clamping sheets together for welding is very usefull for holding nuts and saddles for shaping on the disc sander.

yup, for 010, 020 and 030. although it wasn't too happy about the 030.

G'day Bob,

' Shop made jigs ' is always an interesting thread . Thanks to all who have posted .
These are just a few I've come up with:

Here's my version of the " Robo Sander ".Made the bottom " Robo " part out of Tas. Myrtle ( not Tiger ). Gives a bigger table than the Stewmac ,and living in Australia (postage ),saved a small fortune , although I did buy their slide vise pictured.
The drum is wood . which I have trued up ( I removed it's original soft covering ,,,,don't enjoy rounded over corners and edges etc. ). It has a very clever and convenient sandpaper clamping system.
I don't often use the ' Robo ' system , but the drum sander gets a good work out. The drum can be lowered into a hole in the bench top when the Myrtle plate is removed.



This is a pic. of my Saftey Planer set up. I find I don't use all that much either , but is handy for reducing down the back of headstocks , thicknessing bridge blanks ,headplates etc . .I thinned down those Tas. Myrtle slats to give just the right amount of hold down flex , although the bearings are adjustable foe height anyways . They can be turned to suit your direction of cut also .



I made this quite some time ago and is my favorite so far . I've posted pictures of it before , so apologies to those who are probably sick of seeing it !

Made from scrap Aluminium ( Aussie spelling ), Brass , Bronze, Copper and Steel. It's in metric . The needle bearing spindle is from a record player turntable . The upper bout of the little guitar becomes the cam , while the lower bout acts as a counterweight . There is also a counter/counter weight on the indicator arm. The lower anvil ( below the measuring probe ) is radiused at it's base and sits in a bronze bushed hole and can move around quite freely This radius is of the same radial tangent as the probe's tip giving a consistant reading no matter what angle the wood is presented to the jig , whereas A conventional rounded domed anvil can give a higher reading unless presented at the exact 90 degree angle to the probe



Craig Lawrence
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CRAIG LAWRENCE of AUSTRALIA
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I have many more ! . Seems you can never have enough jigs !


Cheers to all !


Craig Lawrence
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CRAIG LAWRENCE of AUSTRALIA
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