Official Luthiers Forum!

OLFers,

I've been reading this forum for a couple of years. I used to be a lurker, but
have gradually felt more comfortable about posting as I have made progress
and built a couple of instruments.

I'm one of those ex-high tech types who came into this craft with little
knowledge or experience in precision wood-working. My previous
acme of achievement was a picnic table built with a circular saw and
hand-held drill. I seriously thought chisels were always used in
conjunction with a hammer.

Everything I know I've learned from back issues of American Lutherie,
Cumpiano and Natelson, MIMF, and especially, from this forum. To this day,
I've never met or spoken with another guitar-maker, professional or
hobbyist.

My first build was from the Scott Antes parlor plan. It is now safely hidden away
minus the tuners and bridge, which I "harvested" for re-use. Suffice it to say that
I learned a tremendous amount building jigs and working on this instrument. Perhaps
its just as well that I messed up the bridge placement: the top was too thin and I overbuilt
the already over-braced design.

For number two, I worked off of Michael Payne's SJ plan that many of us here have used.
The result was vastly better. My neck shaping was sub-optimal and my fret work
still poor, but it sounds good to me and has become my main playing instrument.

After that, I decided to build a tenor ukulele. I mostly completed it a couple of months
ago (I'm waiting to get a fret barber from StewMac to do the frets above the 12th fret;
I'm too chicken to hammer on the body and plan to super-glue in the high frets).

The backs and sides are "ribbon figure" grade (i.e., the cheapest) Oregon Myrtle and
the top is an A grade (ditto) Port Orford Cedar soundboard, both from Dave Maize.
I used a B grade Spanish Cedar neck blank. The binding is "stealth binding" (TM of Heshtone
Guitars) from offcuts from the sides. I had intended to use curly maple binding to match the
piece I glued in when joining the back, but I bet you can guess what caused the
change in plans. The finish is hand-applied shellac (I'll call it French Polish when I get
better. Instead of buffing, I used Novus #2 plastic polish.

Oh, and the bridge and fingerboard are Bubinga, from Hana Lima.

I mostly used the GAL plan, but as its more descriptive than normative, I built it
significantly lighter than that plan shows.

I really like it. It has a sweet tone and long sustain. The cedar top definitely gives it
a different sound than the traditional all-Koa uke.

(Note: In the first photo, its propped up against a 60-year old Japanese persimmon tree
in my back yard. If that tree ever dies, I'm going to make fingerboards out of it!)






I'm finally getting around to posting this today as an avoidance technique to keep
from freaking out about happenings in the scary outside world. I'm definitely not
looking for a bunch of kudos replies; I'm quite aware of where I am on the learning
curve and I definitely still have a lot of work to do to even approach the median level
of competence of builders who show their work here.

But I do want to show fellow newbies out there that this can be done. And thanks again
to Lance and Brock for establishing and managing this forum.

Oh, and someone was posting about ukuleles again today.

Cheers,

Eric

Eric--

A belated welcome and a big thanks for posting! The instruments are beautiful! Everyone has something to share here -- I think that that is why the OLF works so well!

_________________
Jim Howell
Charlotte, NC

I noticed the saddle is angled.Is that for compensation or low g tuning.I`m currenty looking for a decent plan.Also did you use a spanish heel or is it box built? She looks real nice!!
James

_________________
James W Bolan
Nashville Tennessee

James,

The saddle slot is angled for a low G string (i.e., non re-entrant tuning).

Hana Lima sells partially made bridges with the saddle slot routed
and the bridge pin holes drilled. They require a bit of shaping, though.

(I just bought a Biltmoore sliding vice yetsreday based on archive research here,
so I'm going to make my own bridges from here on out)

It is a set neck, not Spanish heel.

Like I said, I used the GAL plan. The notes on it state that the dimensions
they give for the fan braces and the top thickness are descriptive of the
Martin uke the plan is based and, but opine that it is likely overbuilt.
I saw a posting from John Mayes on uketalk.com where he recommended
building quite lightly for good tone. I took the top, back and sides down to about
.07 in and tapered the fan braces much more aggressively than the plan showed,
especially where they meet the transverse brace just below the soundhole.

I've not inspected any other ukulele plans, such as Hana Lima's, so I can't compare.

Good luck,

Eric

James,

By the way, I believe the Hana Lima plan shows both 12 fret and 14 fret
(to the body) alternatives, whereas the GAL plan is 12-fret.

Eric (too late to edit)

Eric, that's a beautiful uke.
Love that Myrtle!
Well done,

Steve

_________________
From Nacogdoches...the oldest town in Texas.

http://www.stephenkinnaird.com

Ditto on the Myrtle. Two of my favorite builds have been with Myrtle/Spruce.

I think its unusual for 1st time `ukulele builders to go with a Tenor, and low g to boot, especially outside of Hawai`i, but, with all of the resources around, I can see why.

I met a builder once who used Shellac, and I insinuated, "FP?" and his response, with a grin was, "No. Shellac."

Keep it going.

Welcome Eric!

I'm sure you'll find, as I have, that the best part of this business/hobby/field is the people involved. If there is a better group of people in ANY profession more willing to help each other and share their experiences/knowledge I haven't found it.

Oh BTW
Your Uke looks great.

_________________
CVT Inc.
A tour of our shop (Somewhat outdated)
My Personal eBay profile. BCWoodBug