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 Post subject: Filling Neck/Sides Joint
PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 5:24 pm 
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Walnut
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Alright after about an hour of searching through the achieves, here I am.

Can someone offer any suggestions how to fill a small gap where the sides come into the neck/heel. Basically I didn't cut the angle right so after gluing the sides I am left with a gap running the length of the sides.

I have already tried (on scrap) the typical epoxy/saw dust mixture but it's coming out too dark. I also tried (walnut) wood filler from a woodworking supply store and that came out too light. Any other "magic" suggestions?

HELP!!

Thank you experts!!

Greg


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 6:21 pm 
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Koa
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Dude...could you explain that a little better? Maybe a pic? Just about when I think I understand what you are after.....swooooshh....it's gone.... :lol:

Lots of smart folk here...we'll get the answer.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 6:27 pm 
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Koa
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It's best to take it off and fix it.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 6:28 pm 
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Koa
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I agree that a photo would be nice...but if you're talking about a remaining gap between the neck, and the sides, AFTER you've already permanently affixed the neck to the body, then that's a tough one. It "might" be better to remove the neck, correct the gap, then reglue/affix.

If you're talking about a gap where the sides meet "beneath" the neck, before the neck is attached, then that will depend a lot on how much of that gap would be routed away when/if you route the neck pocket in the neck block, or how much will be covered by the neck heel itself.

Come to think of it, I'm going to second that photo recommendation.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 7:33 pm 
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Walnut
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I thought that might happen. What makes sense in my own head...

Here is a blurry picture but you should get my point now...

Image


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 8:03 pm 
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Welcome to the OLF Greg,

That's a rather large gap.

You need to take the neck off and even out the back of the heal.

Look at Hesh's tutorial on setting the neck for a very good detailed process.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 10:07 pm 
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Walnut
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Thank you for the reply and link. Let me add this piece to the puzzle...

Does is matter (i.e. change your/anyone's advice) that I used a "traditional Spanish" style body joint rather than a bolt-on or dovetail style. I ask the questions b/c as I see it, using this type of body joint allows the sides to "sit-in" (a groove) somewhat rather than just rest against the neck stock. Put possibly another way, this type of joint adds more of a "seal" that may not be impacted as greatly by the gap. As I'm sure most everyone reading this knows, this type of body joint is harder to remove, hence my resistance and search for an easier option.

Hopefully that makes sense as it does in my head :-)

Again, my sincere thanks!!
Greg


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 10:39 pm 
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Ah, I guess one of us should have asked what style of neck joint it was before assuming :oops: sorry about that.

Well, I've not done a Spanish heal before but my guess is that you DO NOT take it apart.

I would find some mahogany (looks like mahogany? use some off cuts from the neck) and try as best as you can to match the grain lines of the heal of the neck and make a sliver the fits those gaps (it's on both sides right?). Now, the sliver does not need to go all the way in to the neck, basically it could be about 1/8-1/4" thick, but I would make it thicker to make sure I got the profile of the gap right. Than I'd glue it in place with HHG or fish glue (they will leave less of a glue line). Maybe even make it a wedge type fit and tap (I SAID TAP!) it in the gap. Don't drive it in or you will change the angle of the neck (or will you? maybe not with a spanish heal).

Let the glue dry overnight.

If you have some of the sliver sticking out just use a flush cut saw to cut through most of it, than switch to an exacto blade to score through the rest. Try not to touch the sides of course.

That's probably what I would do.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 1:11 am 
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Koa
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If I'm not mistaken, and I could easily be, I think Bob Taylor started his bolt on necks with a spanish heel repair. Just cut off the neck, insert the bolts and bolt it back on. Here's how Frank Ford does it: http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Luthier/Technique/Guitar/NeckReset/BCRIchReset/bcrichreset1.html

He has some fancy tools he's adapted for the job but I think you can get by with a flush cut saw that is only set on one side. I don't think you will ever be happy with a patch job and this way you'll learn something new.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 10:02 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Any kind of patch or filler will show, so you might as well make it a design feature. I would take a chisel and even up the slot. Then install a strip of rosewood or ebony to give a nice contrast.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2008 5:12 am 
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Walnut
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If the sides are "floating" in that gap, you can probably make a wedge to slide in the gap on the inside of the guitar and it could press the sides flush....depends on if there is pla in there though.

~Brian


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