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PostPosted: Mon May 31, 2010 2:19 pm 
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Koa
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On my first Florentine I took the easy route and did a butt joint - and after the fact I didn't like it very much.

For my next attempt, I want to have an ebony tip to match the Ebony binding on my guitar.

Can you tell me the method you use to do this? I'm not seeing anything in the OLF tutorials on this.

And.... should I just get an ebony bridge blank and cut it up for the wood?

Thanks!

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PostPosted: Mon May 31, 2010 3:07 pm 
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First name: Dennis
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Hmm, I certainly have no experience or reference for how people have done it before, but here's what I'd do.

I assume you already have a small wedge shaped "block" (in the sense of the head and tail blocks) as a glue surface where the cutaway and the rest of the side join. So you can just cut the tip of the horn off and have a flat surface there. Then glue on a wedge shaped bit of ebony, and proceed to binding like normal.

And for the ebony wedge, do you have any ebony fingerboard blanks that aren't already tapered? Sawing off the edge before going to a plane to shave down to the final taper would probably get you a big enough snippet.

Another option would be to hand-cut regular binding channels along both sides of the horn and miter or butt together two strips of binding. Score with a razor knife, chisel down to whatever depth you want, glue the binding, scrape flush. Probably a waste of time compared to the wedge tip method.


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PostPosted: Mon May 31, 2010 3:11 pm 
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I like the full mitered look. It takes time but it sure looks nice.


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PostPosted: Mon May 31, 2010 3:20 pm 
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Nice one, Kent. 3 way miter... yeah Paul, you're on your own with that one :) I'm having enough trouble even visualizing the shape of each piece, much less actually cutting them to fit perfectly on both ends of the curve. Quite impressive.


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PostPosted: Mon May 31, 2010 6:21 pm 
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G'day Paul,

I've made them a couple of ways . Three way mitres are made more difficult if you include side purfling ;


Attachment:
97olf1.JPG


This Florentine has a mitred side join eliminating the need for binding the tip:

Attachment:
THREE91.jpg


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PostPosted: Mon May 31, 2010 11:38 pm 
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With ebony binding you won't see a three way miter so you can just put in a triangular piece that is the same width as the bindings. That's what is usually done on mandolins. Personally I prefer Craig's mitered sides look. That's what I do. I think he might even have a tutorial on the ANZLF.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 12:14 am 
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I prefer the mitered sides instead. Personally the continual grain of the sides is what I find appealing. Off course that is subjective to taste...

Image

Image

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 2:54 am 
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Geez pretty sloppy work Craig.


















You left a couple of bits of rag on the bench........ but that mitre is just superb, lovely stuff M8.

Your no slouch either Peter, the ziricote looks REALLY nice.

Cheers

Kim


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 7:32 am 
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Wow cool good timing too as I am doing the same thing. I've done one before probably 15 years ago. I think I just epoxied a piece on there and then planed and scraped it flush then routed out the binding channels right through it. I really like the look of the mitered sides but not sure if I have the skills to pull it off.

I remember for the one I did I put a little block on the inside too. Is that even necessary you reckon?


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 8:47 am 
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Yes, put a block on the inside.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 10:49 am 
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I personally like the a fully mitred Florentine -- it feels a bit unfinished to me otherwise. But I know that many folks disagree and prefer it the other way around.

I install the binding on the tip with a gramil. I can't imagine binding these things without that tool. Also, you might find it easiest to install the side purfling first and then add the binding.

Here is a photo of one of mine:

Image


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 11:15 am 
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SimonF wrote:
I personally like the a fully mitred Florentine -- it feels a bit unfinished to me otherwise. But I know that many folks disagree and prefer it the other way around.

I install the binding on the tip with a gramil. I can't imagine binding these things without that tool. Also, you might find it easiest to install the side purfling first and then add the binding.

Here is a photo of one of mine:

Image



I look at photos like this - and then think about my skill-set and two words come to mind.

"No Way"

Nicely done everyone.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 11:34 pm 
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I disagree Paul -- I've seen photos of your work -- I certainly believe you all could pull it off just fine. The way to miter the tips becomes obvious once you cut your binding channels. But if you ever need any help, feel free to give me a call. I could walk you thru it in a few minutes time.

Kind Regards,
Simon


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 02, 2010 7:52 am 
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This page of a tremendous AGF Jim Olsen SJ build thread is a great tutorial of how he does it.
http://www.acousticguitarforum.com/foru ... 336&page=7

(For my money, this thread is a MUST SEE for any builder.... techniques, skill, tools & jigs, zoot ....got it all!)

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 03, 2010 8:06 am 
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Dave Stewart wrote:
This page of a tremendous AGF Jim Olsen SJ build thread is a great tutorial of how he does it.
http://www.acousticguitarforum.com/foru ... 336&page=7

(For my money, this thread is a MUST SEE for any builder.... techniques, skill, tools & jigs, zoot ....got it all!)




Dave,
Thanks for the lead on this thread I really enjoyed it-Mr. Olson is amazing!!

It really shows that even when using the most sophisticated machinery and jigs, there is still no substitute for hand tool skills.

Brad


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 03, 2010 8:41 am 
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The thought of binding/purfling 11 instruments drives me up a wall...
I hate repetitive tasking. But I have to admit that Jim is good at production.


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