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So, I'd like to start using epoxy for gluing on finger boards....or at least I'd like to experiment with this. I'm wondering which epoxy people are using? I would lean towards West since I always have it in the shop, I've used it for 20 years and I've always been happy. I wonder if it's the right choice for this application, though. I think it is, but I'm curious what others are using.

I glued a couple of boards using epoxy,just standard hardware store varity. They started to release from truss rod pressure so I just removed them and went with Titebond. Since then I have been informed by Mario that the correct thing to do is to serrate the surfaces before gluing. I'm not sure if my choice of epoxy or the lack of serrations or both was the problem but if I was to use epoxy again I would serrate the surfaces first no matter what the glue. Just a heads up,you may want to speak to Mario.
Tom

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A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything!!!

Well, you definitely don't want the surfaces glass smooth. It's just the opposite of Titebond and hide glue. Most epoxy has practically no adhesive properties. You need roughness to mechanically lock the pieces together. You can also starve an epoxy joint by clamping way too hard. Even though everyone's always worried about clamping a Titebond joint and starving it, unless you have industrial hydraulic clamps it would be practically impossible to starve a Titebond joint....thinner the better, usually.

Calling Hugh..... help us

Clamping pressure may have been part of the problem. I'm not shy about putting a bit of torque on the clamp handles.
Tom

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A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything!!!

What is the reason for moving to epoxy from whatever you were originally using? I see no reason why standard wood glues (PVA, hide, fish, etc,) would not be sufficient. I am not big on using epoxy for wood to wood glue surfaces as glue lines are usually a lot more noticeable. I am always afraid of starving an epoxy joint. It is not my nature to purposely go for loose fitting joinery which is where epoxy shines. Def key the surface if you do choose to use epoxy.

Filippo nailed it. I always end up with a bit of a back bow in my neck after gluing on the fingerboard. I'd like to experiment with some other techniques. I know a lot of small builders have started using epoxy....PRS uses epoxy. I want to play too.

I will also start using steel alignment pins on my fingerboards. Epoxy won't shrink when it cures, so the pins will never rattle, and they won't rust. I know I can use wood, and I know other people build without. I've thought long and hard and I decided that small steel pins are the best option for various reasons.

Hi. First time posting here. I thought I would toss in my 2 cents. I have been using Smiths all wood epoxy for years on ebony boards to maple necks with exellent results. Smiths has a very long cure time so there is no hurry to assemble parts. It is made to penetate and bond with oily woods. A pin alignment is the best way to go for easy glue up. I like to drill through 2 fret slots, place the pins, glue and clamp, pull the pins, then replace the frets.

I've found West System to be better than anything else I've used.

What resin and hardener are you using? I currently use T88 but now have a large amount of West 105 resin due to starting to use it for pore fill so it might worth using for other things as I probably have a lifetime supply.

Fred

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Fred Tellier
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I've used everything from structural epoxies to hardware store 5 minute epoxy. As long as it's well mixed and correctly metered(right amounts), it'll do fine. It's a large area...

yes, toothing is a must for a good epoxy bond. I tooth with a single cut file that I've ground the end flush to expose the teeth.

See the file and surface here:

http://www.mimf.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php ... 359#p13299

most epoxies i am familiar with have a bit of a rubbery quality when cured- so i would guess that might have a bit of a dampening effect. for that reason i would not want to use it on a neck. something glassy and brittle would be ideal in theory for best vibration transmission, like animal glues or CA. Titebond(which i use) is also quite hard when cured
just my theory

If they are rubbery when cured, I'm betting you have a poor mix ratio. The ratio is important and it's usually different by weight and volume.

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There are 3 common hardeners for WEST, 205, 206 and 207. 205 is general purpose, 206 is slow (which I always use because it can get hot around here) and 207 is "special coatings" specially formulated to avoid amine blush and to stay clear over the years. It works, and is the one you should always use for a pore fill. 206 can definitely go white, sometimes a long time after application. For gluing wood to wood, a thickener like colloidal silica may make it more useable for you. For wood to wood I use an epoxy called Techniglue (only available in Aus, I think). It is a 2:1 thixotropic adhesive that works well (but you can starve planed joints if you clamp tight). A good approximation to it is WEST and colloidal silica. 207, apparently, gives very similar strength performance to 205/6 so you can use that in gluing applications, too (and it turns the product over) but it is more expensive.

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Trevor Gore, Luthier. Australian hand made acoustic guitars, classical guitars; custom guitar design and build; guitar design instruction.

http://www.goreguitars.com.au