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I looked for the basic thickness & brace dimensions for a tenor uke but no find.
Can some one help me out please?
sides, top, back, braces..
MM

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Mike McNerney

Do you have a printed plan? These will put you in the ballpark.

If you cant find plans , try looking on ebay for a junker you can get cheap and use as a "basic" idea

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Stewmac has instructions for their tenor kit that could be usefull
http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/i-5348/i-5348.pdf
Kathy Matsushita has a good web site and build a few
http://www.theamateurluthier.com/
The top and back thickness will depend on what wood you use.
Typically 2 to 2.8 mm.
I glue all braces at 7 mm x 12 mm tall then shape them triangular, etc.
Hope this help

Plans are available here for $12. http://www.bluestemstrings.com/pageUke1.html

I have a plan at home and, if I remember, I will search it out and let you know on Monday.

I use a a 1/4in tall by 1/4in fan braces 3 for a 4 string 5or 6 braces for 8 str or 6 str depending how stiff the top and 1 large 1/2in by 1/2in transverse brace below s.hole. GAL has plans. 2 or 3 on backs depending on density of back . e.g rosewood gets 2 sycamore 3

What bracing system are you using?
Ernie's numbers should work as a start for tone-bar bracing but Kasha or falcate braces are usually lighter.
I like to use two layers of soundboard cuttings (0.140") for falcate bracing because they bend easily.
Bob

Bob I use a 3 ply .o50 spruce for the falcate with carbon fiber./202gf fish glue .So mine are abt .160 on a long curve from the the utb to past the bridge patch and 2 smaller c 3 ply braces near the patch .That/s for a cedar top thinned to abt .o75 these are for my falcate pineapple tenor. with spruce live back bracing on the tamarind. back. The recipe above is for a more traditional style which I used on a fir/ tamarind 8 string pineapple tenor.I prefer fir as it is way stiffer and IMHO is what I am looking for on the sound of an 8 string which is strummed. I still have not completed the traditional 6 string tenor which is fingerpicked. I use both bracing patterns . hope this helps. I like englemann as it is soft and bends easily for the falcate curves. Think the falcate bracing is abt 1/2in high. my falcate backs are .o65and sides, cedar top is thicker varies with density . I/m doing a ,e. spruce falcate that will be abt .075 it/s soft and same density for the osage orange back and triple laminated osage ribs abt .124 .this will be a concert falcate.

Bob there is more . If you look at the may 24, 2012 posting by craig(i/m not the smartest tool in the shed) you will see a falcate bracing plan for a concert uke .That/s where I took my ideas from .As well if you check the archives of the ANZLF you will find a number of other excellent articles on falcate uke bracing The traditional bracing patterns I use come from the martin GAL plan and the small baritone one from the MIMF small baritone /CL /SS plan . Cheers ernie

Ernie:
I prefer to use mahogany all over. I have a source for free mahogany but the quality of the wood can vary. Since most/all of my ukuleles are given away, I tend to use cheap stuff all around. To my eye, Martin soundboards look too "plastic/perfect" for me. Real wood should have character.

I like the idea of your laminated falcate bracing. I wonder if four layers of hickory veneer would work. I still have part of a roll of one-inch without hot-melt. I would glue it on the bending mold and re-saw it for a pair of braces.

Can you plane the carbon-fiber laminate for shaping the braces?

Bob

No worries bob, use mahogany , but skip the hickory veneer. too hard !get cheap bc spruce 2x3 or 2x4 or 1x4 from local lumber yard .I prefer LV 202gf fish and use cf on bottom and top of bracing , no planing.You/ll dull ze blades ya? If your super thrifty .I don/tknow how hard manitoba maple is ., but I use local black walnut milled for my bridges and some exotics .I/ve also used hawthorne, which is abt as hard as e. maple an vy white. I/ve also used mahogany for laminating the bracing . But I would use .040 for mahog instead of .050 spruce.

For backs and sides, I shoot for .070 thickness. For tops, it depends on the wood. Hardwoods like koa and mahogany, I shoot for .070. I have gone less. For spruce tops, I shoot for .080 or a bit more if the top feels kinda flabby, although I try to avoid flabby wood. For top braces, I like .20-.23 wide, height can vary, but generally .040. Since I usually do pin bridges, my bridge plate is about .070 or less. Back braces--can vary, but generally about the same as top braces.

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Kevin Mason
Mason Guitars and Ukuleles on Facebook
http://masonguitars.net

I go.

Traverse Braces 6mm wide 8mm tall
3 Finger Braces 3.5mm wide 8mm tall and voice from there.

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Michael F Smith
Goat Rock Ukulele
http://goatrockukulele.com