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My plane body keeps rusting and it seems there's nothing I can do to stop it. Has anyone thought of attaching sacrificial anode to a plane body to protect it from rust?

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Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com

I tried paste wax, it made no difference.

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Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com

Depends what's causing the rust. If it's high humidity in your shop, you could try this, which seems to be a paraffin wax/emulsion with aluminium (or maybe zinc) particles in it. I've used it and it works OK. The 250 ml tin I bought about 10 years ago is still half full. You don't need much.

If it's sweaty/acid hands, the above may help a bit or you could try this. Never used it, but maybe worth a try. Would be better than wearing gloves.

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Trevor Gore, Luthier. Australian hand made acoustic guitars, classical guitars; custom guitar design and build; guitar design instruction.

http://www.goreguitars.com.au

I got some 325 mesh spherical aluminum powder, would it help if I mixed that into regular paste wax?

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Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com

Maybe these would work.http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.a ... at=1,43326 or http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.a ... at=1,43456 I have several Climagel dessicant bags in some of my storage cabinets. These are similar to the ones packed with electronics, except they are 3" x 3". I don't know if they are actually doing anything as my shop is climate controlled, but it doesn't hurt to have extra protection.

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

Alex, what an awesome solution. I wonder if that foam think could be used on metal surfaces like table saws, jointers, etc

Mike

These are pretty good at resisting rust:

http://www.woodline.com/p-2594-taiwan-style-planes.aspx

I don't like those planes... its harder to adjust the planes and it just doesn't have the mass to cut correctly... Plus wood can warp and shift with changes in humidity too.

I put the larger plane in the drying room for now... I really can't afford to humidity control the shop at the moment, although I wish I could because the high humidity makes me feel like crap.

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Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com

How about storing it in a plastic container with desiccant? A few silica gel pouches in a tupperware box would make a cheap and easy dry storage system.

D'oh....should have read Alex's post before my reply. Guess there's another genius reading this forum

I have used the VpCI-126 bags from Lee Valley for my planes and chisels with no problems. The current batch is near its 2 year use by date.

A good evaluation of corrosion inhibiting products available for A2 steel and Cast Iron was published by Fine Woodworking in their July/August #212 issue. Their top performers for both A2 steel and Cast Iron were CRC Industrial 3-36 Multipurpose Lubricant and Corrosion Inhibitor http://crcindustries.com/auto/?s=03005, LPS3 Corrosion Inhibitor http://www.lpslabs.com/product_pg/corrosion_pg/LPS3.html and regular WD-40. The LPS3 was dinged for leaving a slight waxy/oily film on the tool which transferred to the wood if not wiped well before use. I picked up a can of the CRC 3-36 at a local auto parts store for $6.00. So far no rust.

What surprised me in the results was poor performance of most of the products sold for rust prevention like Camelia Oil, different waxes, WD-40 Longterm Corrosion Inhibitor, Boeshield T9, 3M Rust Fighter, etc. Regular WD-40 did a much better job than any of the expensive products in this test.

I read this article and to my eyes WD-40 looks equal to the CRC product. I have been using WD-40 for over thirty years and will continue to do so. I also like it's smell compared to many other oil products.

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Another day, another dollar.

I do not know what is in my shop that causes stuff to rust sooner than usual. I had a small fire in the shop due to a stupid mistake and the smoke seem to have caused rusting (the smoke was from burning plastic and pyrotechnic compositions that may contain acids), but ever since then when I cleaned the rust off, it just comes right back. I tried WD-40 and it didn't really do much either. Now I've tried baking soda wash to hopefully neutralize any acids but only time will tell...

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Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com

A phosphate surface treatment would help a lot. You can do a crude iron phosphate coating by soaking the cleaned plane body in dilute phosphoric acid for a few minutes, then oven dry it, and apply an oil. A strong phosphoric acid solution will remove rust. Here in the States, Jasco Metal Etch is a readily available product--just phosphoric acid, water, and some detergent to remove oils.

If you can find a metal painting operation, they probably use an iron phosphate spray pretreatment. Maybe they'd agree to run your planes through that. Even better would be a zinc phosphate pretreatment.

If anyone is restoring old handguns and rifles in Taiwan, they may know where you can buy chemicals for "Parkerizing". That would give you a particularly durable phosphate finish (usually manganese phosphate, I think).

Nobody does anything with guns in Taiwan, they're considered condemned contraband and possession of those is a very serious crime. It's a bit like Japan actually.

However I can get the chemicals, I don't know about parkerazations.

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Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com

The burning plastic very likely released chlorine (e.g. from PVC [polyvinyl chloride] or numerous other plastics). Chlorine is extraordinarily corrosive (DAMHIKT). If you ever find a way to "neutralise" the chlorine, please let us all know! Maybe some of our resident inorganic chemists can help.

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Trevor Gore, Luthier. Australian hand made acoustic guitars, classical guitars; custom guitar design and build; guitar design instruction.

http://www.goreguitars.com.au

Yea, and the burning pyro comp had chlorine donor in it that forms HCl when it burns.... I don't know I just use a base of some kind like baking soda...

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Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com

-What Eric Reid said. 'Ospho' is a good otc product
but may not be available where you are.