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Hello OLF,
I am a Novice guitar repair hobbyist and happy to have found this website.

I have recently acquired a Guild JF65-12 from a friend and much to my disappointment the bridge is in need of repair. It is lifted from the body on the back side (facing away from the sound hole), high enough to slide a dime between the bottom of the bridge and the body when tuned with a standard E tuning. With the tension off the strings, the gap closes down enough so that the dime will not slide in anymore but still significant enough to see easily with the naked eye.
The side of the bridge facing the sound hole has what appears to be some glue that has seeped out from under the bridge. Whatever it is it is very brittle and splinters some with slight pressure from a nylon tie wrap.
The previous owner claims that none of these artifacts were present before he shipped it. The Guitar was shipped from Atlanta to New Mexico and arrived here March 4, was out in the Cold, trucks, etc for about 5 days.
I am a novice and have not attempted anything like this before and am looking for any comments from the experts here on the best way to proceed with a repair like this.
I had two primary questions at this point:
1. What are the risks of regluing and clamping without removing? Is this a good option in some cases? It looks like the back side of the bridge was never glued at all, I can see the finish underneath where the bridge has separated. Is it possible that the bridge is still secure in spite of the lift?

2. Could the factory glue used for the bridge ooze out one side and become brittle or is that possibly superglue, or even some of the finish has buckled under the stress from the strings and the lift?
I don’t relish the Idea of turning this Instrument over to a stranger to repair it over an undetermined amount of time and I’m willing to take on the task. I have attached some photos- Hole they are self explanatory

Thank you for reviewing my project- Any advice/criticism is appreciated-

Gmann60

You could try just gluing and clamping, but it would be a crapshoot, and probably temporary. It partly depends on if someone tried to do it before (you mention some unknown glue). I'd plan on taking it off. It looks like the bridge is already willing and should come off with a spatula and a little heat. Put some masking tape on the top next to the bridge to keep the spatula from scratching it. The bridge itself looks good, so you won't have to make a new one. Check the condition of the bridge plate. It also looks like the finish on the top in front (sound hole side) of the bridge might need a little attention. Do some research (Stewmac.com and Frets.com both have good instructional videos) and see if it looks like something you'd be comfortable doing.

_________________
"Real guitars are for old people, Mr. Marsh."

Eric Cartman

I can see why you might be tempted to inject some glue and reclamp, but I think you'll be happier in the long run if you remove the bridge, clean off all previous glue, and then do a fresh glue up. Follow Mark's suggestions--especially watching some others do it on video--and it should be pretty easy. I'm not sure how the pros would go about re-aligning the bridge precisely. I think I'd wax two of the pins and use them as registration pins while setting my bridge clamps, then remove them once I was sure the bridge wouldn't slide.

I agree. Spooging some glue and clamping never really works. A removal, cleaning, and reglue is the way to go.

I'm not a fan of using bridge pins to locate the bridge. They're usually tapered and don't prevent slippage while clamping. I usually just locate the right spot (I usually line up the string holes by eye), and put about four layers of tape around the front and one side of the bridge. This helps to keep the bridge from sliding, and is easy to cleanup.



A bridge reglue is not an easy job, though. It's tough to get the proper fit without someone doing it with you the first time. Good luck if you try it!

The bridge needs to be properly removed with minimal if any damage to the top wood under the bridge and then both gluing surfaces need to be cleaned up completely of any old glue and lifted fibers that remain need to be glued down properly. Then the bridge is reglued with HHG and a method that will have all the clamps in place and secured in very short order in accordance with the open time of HHG combined with preheating, etc.

Squirting glue under there and clamping won't hold and it could be that the next time that the bridge lifts it does even more damage to the top wood.... Doing this correctly is important especially if you like the guitar and in my way of thinking even if you hate the guitar...

A professional shop will do as I described AND they should not need to have the instrument more then a week to get to it and get it done.

You also need to look inside with mirror and light because looking at those bridge pins I suspect that the string balls have worn the bridge plate and the string balls are starting to pull up through the plate, top, etc. This means that a bridge plate cap is in order on the inside too.

Regardless of if someone squirted super glue or something else in there welcome to the world of the repair Luthiers.... In any event we simply bust though it and make it right super glue and all.... I've got a 1960 G*bson LG-1 to remove the bridge on this morning that someone squirted super glue in..... It used to bother me now I just bust through it, get it done, next.

Since this is a 12 the string tension on the bridge is pretty high also making it even more important to do this correctly.

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Ann Arbor Guitars

Actually a pretty straight forward repair . Agree with everyone one else , heat and spatula removal and cleanup . Check everything and prep and re-glue .

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Never met a STRONG person who had an EASY past !
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Nope, take it to a qualified repair person and have them reglue the bridge and check the bridge plate. You will likely mess it up as you admit you are a novice and have never done this.

That's my thought as well but I thought that detailing the nits of the repair and concerns might just help the OP come to this conclusion on their own. HHG, special clamps, needing to refit the bridge properly, bridge plate caps, etc. and a one week turn around at a pro shop all add up to perhaps it's time to seek a pro.

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Ann Arbor Guitars

But how do we learn if we never venture outside that which we're already comfortable with?

_________________
"Real guitars are for old people, Mr. Marsh."

Eric Cartman

Very true, and if you want to fix it yourself, go ahead. Be aware that you may do damage to the instrument. I would check Frank Ford's Frets.com for re-gluing bridges. It is a fine site for repair. You will also get good responses from the folks here. You will have to protect the top while you heat the bridge up to loosen the glue. The main problem I see here is loosening the front edge of the bridge. I don't like the idea of heated pallet knives, because it is so easy to mess up the finish. Hesh can probably tell you the best way to get the bridge off. After that, you will have to scrape the old glue off the top and bridge. Re-gluing with hot hide glue is a must and you must have the proper clamps. Others will detail things more...

I bought a small cloths iron and heat them from the top and that works quite well on Un-Finished bridges . If its been lacq or painted that will burn the material . But refinish isnt that hard .

_________________
The Shallower the depth of the stream , The Louder the Babble !
The Taking Of Offense Is the Life Course Of The Stupid One !
Wanna Leave a Better Planet for our Kids? How about Working on BETTER KIDS for our Planet !
Forgiveness is the ability to accept an apology that you will probably NEVER GET
The truth will set you free , But FIRST, it will probably Piss you Off !
Creativity is allowing yourself to make Mistakes, Art is knowing which ones to Keep !
The Saddest thing anyone can do , is push a Loyal Person to the point that they Dont Care Anymore
Never met a STRONG person who had an EASY past !
http://wiksnwudwerks.blogspot.com/
http://www.facebook.com/groups/GatewayA ... rAssembly/