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| French Polish https://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=48941 |
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| Author: | Rbello [ Mon Jan 30, 2017 3:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | French Polish |
Help. I noticed a few sessions into my 1st FP that I didn't do nearly enough surface prep - especially on the soundboard. I always wondered why people fussed so much about binding tape pulling up a few fibers - now I know. Anyhow, I thought I might be able to help the situation by doing a little 4f pumice pore fill - can't hurt right? It took me about 4 seconds to pad this spot down to what looks like bare wood. I've continued my sessions but it seems like this spot is not taking up any more shellac. Using Kusmi #1 button. Any advice? If I keep going will it eventually build and blend into the rest? Also should I work this area preferentially? Hope I don't have to start over from scratch - although it would teach me a lesson. Thanks. |
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| Author: | B. Howard [ Tue Jan 31, 2017 7:37 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: French Polish |
I can see a halo where you have been concentrating at trying to fill in the spot. This is actually the worst thing to do as it will keep the shellac from actually setting up in the area you need it most, the damaged area. You are very early on in the process so just ignore the spot and it will slowly disappear. Now you know why I laugh every time I hear "OH, French polish is so easy to repair.." |
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| Author: | Quine [ Tue Jan 31, 2017 11:44 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: French Polish |
I've seen the same thing. If you sand through shellac, the bare spots seem to repel new shellac. It will fill in eventually. It takes a while. Don't just work the bare spot, work the whole top. If you stay in one area you'll get a raised ring of shellac around the bare area. |
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| Author: | mflazar [ Wed Feb 01, 2017 10:42 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: French Polish |
I find it helps to pad in straight lines over the problem area along with a good amount of surrounding area using no oil. Allow the shellac to dry between padding. When you've built a good body, let it dry and sand very lightly with a flat block. make sure you don't go through. Then resume regular padding until a satisfactory body has been built. Level with a flat block and wet and dry paper (at least 800). If you have a good surface, proceed to glaze. Otherwise continue to body and level again. Eventually you will get there. |
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| Author: | Rbello [ Wed Feb 08, 2017 8:40 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: French Polish |
Thanks! Spot disappearing as promised. A related question - How do you know when you are done? Not with the top repair but with FP in general. Seems like I could continue forever. |
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| Author: | Pat Foster [ Wed Feb 08, 2017 9:43 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: French Polish |
Rbello wrote: Thanks! Spot disappearing as promised. A related question - How do you know when you are done? Not with the top repair but with FP in general. Seems like I could continue forever. It has been said that the French polish is not completed, but rather abandoned. When it looks OK (consistent smoothness and gloss), I stop. Pat |
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| Author: | WaddyThomson [ Wed Feb 08, 2017 12:00 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: French Polish |
I'm with Pat! Quit when it looks good. The thinner the better. Thicker won't make it any better. |
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| Author: | Pmaj7 [ Wed Feb 08, 2017 12:03 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: French Polish |
Rbello wrote: How do you know when you are done? Same could be said for most of guitar making. Lol |
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| Author: | David Newton [ Fri Feb 17, 2017 10:34 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: French Polish |
I dream of building up my FP to look like Nitro. Of course I've quit long before that, but I wonder if there is a maximum thickness that FP will arrive at, then automatically start to thin out if I keep going. |
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