Official Luthiers Forum!

Boring topping. But, I would like a recomendation on a rasp(s) useful for clearing neck joint material for fitting. I usually use a block of wood with a 10-15 deg angle, 30 grit paper. But it's too slow. Ideas?

M&T joint.

Mike

I've been using this with some success. It's easy to go too far though which I never had an issue with when using sandpaper and a block.

http://m.woodcraft.com/product/150566/i ... e-cut.aspx


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

_________________
Insta - https://www.instagram.com/cbcguitars/
Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/cbcguitars

Does it cut on all sides? I want one that only cuts on bottom. Don't want to mess with tenon

One of my favorite files is the plasticut duplex laminate file with the yellow handle. It has one "safe edge"which can also be used as a straight edge, one side that cuts quickly and one side that is fine cut. Rough enough for wood work and fine
enough to give control and a good finish. (The red handled one isn't as aggressive as I like - less suited for wood IMHO)

http://www.wurthwoodgroup.com/Duplex-La ... 79353.aspx

http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Ty ... _Rasp.html - I use the large coarse and fine

http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Ty ... Files.html - I use the small flat and curved and large flat

_________________
"I've been had again"
Tim Benware
Creedmoor, NC

I have two Liogier rasps which were handmade in France by Noël Liogier. Noël actually came to the forum to introduce himself and share a video of the process he uses to make them. One is a 10" #9 grain cabinet maker's rasp, and the other is a 7" #13 modeler's rasp. They're beautiful and highly effective, but I don't think they're what you want for this if I'm reading you correctly. I use a chisel to relieve the heel, leaving an 1/8th to a 1/4" of material around the edge. This makes the flossing process go much quicker. This is a pretty common technique. Robbie O'Brien demo's it around the 6:50 mark here.

Based on the responses from others I believe I misunderstood what you wer asking for. I use that file to take small amounts off the tenon sides to fit it into the mortise. For whatever reason mine don't fit right off the jig. I'm hoping to fix that though because I ordered the neck angle jig from luthiertool.

_________________
Insta - https://www.instagram.com/cbcguitars/
Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/cbcguitars

I use the razor files as well

Why not a nice sharp chisel? Once you have relieved the parts of the joint next to the tenon, there is very little work to do. I haven't done many, but I use the chisel to get close to the line, then the angled piece of wood with 80 grit to the line, then floss in place.

I use a 1/4/" down spiral bearing guided pattern bit, same as for trimming top or back over hand.

+1 for the Dragon file from SM -- excellent tool.

_________________
Ken Cierp

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/

OK, I used the chisel approach, plus sanding with a 10 degree block, much faster.

Thanks!

Mike

Now that I know what we are talking about... I chisel relief all the way up so that just a very thin edge is around the perimeter of the joint and then floss in place. What does the sanding block achieve?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

_________________
Insta - https://www.instagram.com/cbcguitars/
Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/cbcguitars

I'm a big fan of the razer files from Stewmac

http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Ty ... Files.html

_________________
https://www.instagram.com/fostinoguitars/
https://www.facebook.com/PuraVidaUkuleles/

Sanding block is fine tuning

Chisel is probably the way to go, but if you are still interested in something that produces a smooth finish that may be comparably useful, look at ...

http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.a ... at=1,42524

These are designed for finishing body work on cars and such. They leave a really nice finish, and are almost always what I want to use after the basic rasp work.

_________________
Jim Kirby
kirby@udel.edu