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Is there a substance that can remove CA from nitro without harming the nitro?

Scrape the drop of CA glue flush with a razor blade. Slightly curve the outside corners so they won't dig in, turn a hook on the edge of the blade just like a scraper, then mask off the outer parts of the edge with scotch tape, leaving a cutting edge exposed in the middle that is the width of the area you are scraping. When flush, wet sand and then polish on a buffer or by hand with micro mesh.

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It will probably be alright.

I was hoping to avoid buffing...

Sand (800 grit) and polish. If you don't want to power buff, get some Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish from AutoZone or WalMart and use a soft cloth by hand. Sand parallel with the grain, and polish across the grain. You should be done in 5 minutes or less.

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John

So be it...

Thanks!

The old trick of covering the outer 1/2" or so of the edge of the razor blade with mylar Scotch tape after rolling a burr on the edge with a burnished or shaft of a polished chisel will work as well to protect the surrounding area from harm. If rounding the edge, it must be done on the opposite side of the edge from the burr (don't ask me how I know this).

Fume-free CA does not burn into lacquer nearly as deeply as regular glue, and is every bit as effective - we use it for binding installation and repair on already-finished instruments (we use BSI Gold or Gold Plus whenever we work adjacent to lacquer-finished surfaces), it really minimizes the potential for further finish damage and related touch-ups.

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A constellation only takes shape when one maps the whole.
- Beth Brower

They both dissolve in the same solvents: acetone, lacquer thinner. So no magic solvent can remove the CA without also melting the nitro. All the advice posted is good, be aware that the CA is physically much tougher and harder than the lacquer.

Fortunately, it is but a wee finger smear, not a drop or anything. Should sand and buff outnfairly easy.