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PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2014 8:19 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

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Good Morning Y'all...

I'm building some cutaways off the OLF plans. The cutaway radius is somewhat tighter on the horns than my other cutaway model. I'm wondering how thin you take your sides down in the cutaway area?

I normally build larger mahogany guitars at around .085, but I'm thinking that due to all the structural strength the curves will give that I could probably run it partway through the drum sander to just past the horn down to .075 or possibly even .070 and feather in the transition to making bending happen without any compression lines. Same for rosewood.

So, how low do you go?


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2014 8:25 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I do all my sides at .075 you can go to .070 just remember that your do need some sanding room. The key here is the bending technique. Keep the cutaway well damp till you get there to bend

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2014 9:47 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Thanks John...


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2014 11:31 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I have been doing double sides on my cutaways and archtops. That almost eliminates breakage. Otherwise I'm around .070 on a solid side.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2014 1:02 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Wow. You guys at definitely thinner ha I normally go..l


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2014 2:34 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I meant for the cutaway. .080 otherwise

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2014 7:21 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Ah...

Well, I took the sides to .075, then ran the first foot of the cutaway side through to .070, then stopped and feathered in the two heights. We'll see if I win or not...


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2014 7:50 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Whaddya know, it worked!ImageImage




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PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2014 2:18 pm 
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Walnut
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Yep! It worked.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2014 2:20 pm 
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Koa
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Good for you my friend.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2014 2:27 pm 
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Looks spot on!

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2014 2:31 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Yeah, the whole shape conformed to the mold within a few millimetres. Well pleased. This is also the first time I've used an insert in the mold for the cutaway, and it is surprisingly helpful.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2014 11:30 pm 
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Koa
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John, do you use water when bending all mahogany or just the cutaway portion? I've had better luck bending mahogany dry. Just curious about your technique. Thanks in advance.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 3:03 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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So far so good!Image


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 11:05 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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That looks great!

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 11:10 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Why thank you!

The cutaway was drawn out by mishmashing the OLF MJ and SJ shapes together, and a lot of looking for the exact right size roll of tape and glue bottle to trace around. There must be a formula....


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 10:31 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I use a little water just enough for damp heat not steamy.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 11:40 am 
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I'm a little late in here, but I have gone much thinner on sides, as thin as .06" for the whole side. That was once with bloodwood, and once with mesquite. I'd say .07" should be good for mahogany, but I wouldn't hesitate to go thinner if the piece was difficult to bend. Mahogany usually bends easily, but I've read there's some out there that doesn't like to bend.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 11:45 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I've definitely seen my fair share of mahogany that just wouldn't bend. We' re recently had a batch of Padauk that would just shatter and rupture with just a bit of pressure. Some woods just won't.

I'm considering double sides for cutaways. To me, .070 feels too thin for my liking. In fact, I prefer heavier stiffer sides. Especially on big 16 1/4 guitars like this one. I feel like flimsy sides can lead to a mushy bass response...


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