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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 3:34 pm 
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This rim jumped in front of a piece of plywood during a home renovation :cry:

I'm thinking scrap, but I thought I'd ask. A nice clean break in a set of EIRW at the neck block.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 3:39 pm 
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It all depends on how precious the set was. I have done seemingly impossible glue ups of brw and koa sets before and I have junked mahogany sides as well


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 4:15 pm 
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If the Guitar is for you , Glue .

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 4:19 pm 
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To keep or sell?

Keep...glue

Sell...well, I wouldn't.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 4:34 pm 
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It probably could be glued and finished without noticing it too badly and would probably hold well as long as the pieces match up perfectly.

But... Personally I would probably scrap it and redo it since it would always be in the back of my mind that it is there (that is just how I am).

If it were for a client, I would redo it no questions asked.

Bob


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 5:06 pm 
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amazing what CA can do. If you take your time it can be salvaged. You got my number Laurie give me a call

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 6:01 pm 
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Another possibility might be to rebend it for a smaller body. LG 3/4 size with a cutaway?


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 7:00 pm 
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That's a venetian cutaway, right? How about converting to a hybrid venetian/florentine style cutaway (ala Bruce Sexauer), using a different piece of wood for the florentine piece?

Provided you can find a reasonably well matched piece, the grain discontinuity shouldn't be too noticeable if you bind the tip. Or you could use a distinctly mismatched wood for the cutaway part. Perhaps matching the neck wood, for a continuous look? Or ebony is always an unobtrusive choice.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 7:47 pm 
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Very fixable..........!!! Shame to just throw it away.
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 8:20 pm 
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I think I'd give it a try; you've really got something substantial to glue too. If you don't like the result you can toss it, but looks doable to me.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 8:23 pm 
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Yes CA will take care of the. If you do a good job it won't even be noticeable.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 8:42 pm 
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Fix it. If done correctly it'll be invisible and stronger than wood. If you mess it up you can trash it or stress it until it breaks to figure out how to do a better repair. In the end you'll certainly learn something... knowing how to fix simple breaks like this is a vital lutherie skill IMO.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 8:46 pm 
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I'd glue it, but I would use a slow drying glue for perfect positioning. Scrape old glue off the clean glue break part and that will be good as new. The splintered part looks like it would go back together well too. Dry clamp to figure out the best way to approach it, and after it sets up, figure a way to brace the inside for more support. You likely will have trouble hiding the joint no matter what glue you use. I would fill the grain with the darkest black filler you can mix, sand that off and dye the wood so it is fairly dark. You may need to do some "graining" with a fine tip pen after. Most any glue will not take the stain well, but a little deft work with a pen will fix that.
Half the art of finishing is hiding flaws.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 10:00 pm 
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Glue it. I saw a very expensive git a couple months ago with worse flaws than that will be with a careful repair. Owner bragged to me about its responsiveness. I told him it was so nice I'd repair it no matter what ever might happen to it. $12000 right! Fix it.

Tim


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 12:15 am 
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I'd use hot hide glue.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 6:38 am 
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Piling on here, but I'm with the majority.... I'd fix it! (Of course that's also because I've learned with my own level of skill that there will undoubtedly be additional "fixes" down the road on any individual build. If I started fresh each time I'd never finish a guitar!! gaah laughing6-hehe



These users thanked the author Corky Long for the post: Michael Lloyd (Mon Jun 23, 2014 12:13 pm)
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 7:44 am 
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Haans wrote:
I'd glue it, but I would use a slow drying glue for perfect positioning.


Me too. I'd use fish glue and take my time getting it right.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 4:05 pm 
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Thanks everyone, some interesting points I hadn't though of. It was originally for a commission build in the distant future, but there is no reason I cant keep it for myself. I also have more wood I can ever build with, so I don't mind scrapping a set of sides.

I think I will reglue it for practice and then decide if I will build with it. I'm one to think why build with an obvious flaw, if I have so much other wood to build with, but if the repair looks good, then why not! Just another practice guitar for me, not that I've finished one yet.

Thanks again, and I'll post pics in a decade if I ever finish a guitar :roll:

Happy building,

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 4:25 pm 
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Even if the glue up doesn't go well you can still build a smaller instrument with that wood. I'm not one to scrap something because of a small flaw, but this early in the game the wood could be used to make something flawless.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 4:27 pm 
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Reglue, not with CA, use Tidebond or hide glue or even a slow setting epoxy. No need to kick away....


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 7:21 pm 
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Any of the above, depending on your patience, technique, etc. At least try it. If it doesn't work out, don't scrap the wood. At the very least, you've got lots of potential head plates, heel caps, etc. trapped in that broken side. Not to mention the unbroken side. Don't completely scrap!


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 7:42 pm 
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I agree with the way I not scrapping anything. I would reuse sawdust if I could find a good enough use for it outside the garden.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 7:39 am 
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I would probably reglue it with tite-bond and pretend it never happened to be honest. It looks like a really clean break and should go back together nicely. Also, no reason not to glue it, and then re-evaluate afterwards as to whether or not you want to use it.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 10:01 am 
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You have a lot of good surface area to work with (for strength). Would it make sense to bond a shaped corner block to extend the neck block a bit? (shattered area)


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