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| HHG Realities... https://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=33215 |
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| Author: | meddlingfool [ Sun Aug 14, 2011 10:26 pm ] |
| Post subject: | HHG Realities... |
I've read a few archives and a few Internet threads in general, but I would like to ask a few questions, yet again... Real life minimum clamp/go bar time? Real life # of re-heats... Sorry for bringing up glue, yet again but.... Thanks |
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| Author: | TonyFrancis [ Mon Aug 15, 2011 3:46 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: HHG Realities... |
Not a problem. Real life minimum clamp time is 2hrs, depending on the joint and how dry your shop is. Over night is better. Real life number of reheats? Well i guess you could do quite a few. Try not to mix up more than you are going to use in a week or so. As long as it doesn't gel before you assemble the joint, Hide glue is very forgiving. |
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| Author: | meddlingfool [ Mon Aug 15, 2011 10:06 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: HHG Realities... |
Thanks! |
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| Author: | Corky Long [ Mon Aug 15, 2011 10:57 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: HHG Realities... |
My understanding of HHG is that the number of reheats is far less of an issue than the importance of keeping the temperature below the target of 145 degrees (Fahrenhiet), where the glue will start to break down. I remember there's some kind of logarithmic scale where the higher above 145 the glue gets, the faster it loses strength. The other issue with HHG and making batches that you don't use quickly enough is spoilage. It will grow mold if it sits around at room temperature for too long. I put mine in the fridge when not using it. |
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| Author: | Ian Cunningham [ Mon Aug 15, 2011 11:46 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: HHG Realities... |
Hide glue is just one of those things you have to get a feel for by yourself. Test on lots of scrap, go through your glue way faster than you'd like, and by the time you do go through it completely, you'll get it. With the varying climates experiences are going to be different, to the point where I'd ask if I was visiting a luthier from far away what he prefers for it rather then use my own knowledge of how the glue works in my environment. Needs to be intuitive, like making a good stew. Know the result your looking for, a basic way to achieve it, and find out how to get it. Writing stuff down will help you get what you want, too. As far as reusing a batch, I just freeze it and then when I need it again I'll thaw it and stick it in my double boiler, erm, glass jar with a lid inside a hot pot filled with water..... The trick is to use as little as you feel is sensible so you go through it sooner. When you get low, just soak up more granules and add them to the jar. It all melts together. Using hide glue is so difficult that I've quit using it for a little while. Constant learning experience. Lots of fun too, but I just can't learn that and instrument building at the same time haha. If your a vet luthier though, it's a snap. Easier in fact than conventional glue in some ways. |
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| Author: | Mike Collins [ Mon Aug 15, 2011 2:02 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: HHG Realities... |
Try Fish Glue. Mike |
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| Author: | Clay S. [ Mon Aug 15, 2011 3:20 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: HHG Realities... |
I've glued bridges on using a "rubbed" joint - no clamps at all, so in a sense clamping time is zero. I also do tentalones that way, wetted with glue and stuck in place. As the glue gets older I use it for less critical , non instrument related gluing. |
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| Author: | Dave Livermore [ Mon Aug 15, 2011 9:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: HHG Realities... |
Todd Stock: fastest go-bar setter in the west. Or do you add something to the glue to extend open time as well as heat up parts? That's a lot of clamps to set in 30 seconds! dl |
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| Author: | Terence Kennedy [ Mon Aug 15, 2011 10:26 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: HHG Realities... |
I've gotten pretty casual with hide glue now. I use a small plastic squeeze bottle. Stick some granules in and just cover them with distilled water, let it sit a while and stick it in the Hold-Heet pot. Gives me the consistency I like. Makes enough for a couple of uses and then I just make a fresh batch. I've always felt the brace joints and bridge plate were going to be under some tension when the go-bars were removed so I usually leave tops and backs in the deck 8 hrs or so and bridges overnight. Might be overkill. Still use LMI white to close the box. |
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| Author: | Ken C [ Fri Aug 19, 2011 8:31 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: HHG Realities... |
Been doing braces, bridge plates, and bridges with HHG. I'm just a bit too paranoid to use it to glue on kerfing, backs and tops yet. Ken [code][/code] Todd Stock wrote: Just have to work a little faster than usual. Set a bar on every three inches...fill in between...fill in again...goes pretty fast. A little heat gun action keeps things from setting up too fast. One of these days I'll build a proper press and avoid the whole heat thing.
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| Author: | bluescreek [ Sat Aug 20, 2011 6:59 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: HHG Realities... |
HHG is not that bad to work with once you get the mind set for it . I can say that I found the true glue pot well worth the investment . I try to keep only the amount of glue I need for the day . I don't keep HHG more than a week . As for top and backs I find that using a heat lamp helps the working time . I also will use a small dish in the pot and will take the hot water and brush that on the kerfing , add the glue and glue . I used to use the go deck but I have a press to do this operation now so time is not an issue . It is worth the effort to learn to use. One thing I learned about fish glue , it is a bit more difficult to remove a glued up piece with this than HHG or tite bond . So take your time with the heating of the piece to remove . |
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