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I had problems on my first two guitars with the binding ending up thin in some areas. I changed my approach and sequence of steps for leveling the sides and installing the binding and have had no problems since.

Most importantly, for me, I get the sides absolutely dead flat so that all the sanding of the sides is completely done before cutting the binding channels. If you don't have to do anymore sanding of the sides after the binding is installed and the binding channels are cut properly, it's pretty much impossible to sand the binding too thin.

Early on, I used a scraper but I found that I get better results (flatter) using a block of 3/4 plywood with adhesive-backed sandpaper on it to level the sides everywhere except the waist. The block is about 3" x 7" so it spans the side from edge to edge while sanding and it makes the side dead flat. I use a piece of PVC pipe with adhesive-backed sandpaper on it for the waist. I also thoroughly crosshatch mark the sides with a China marker pencil so I can see if there are any low spots that still need to be sanded out (like in the photo).

I install the binding about 0.002" proud of the sides. That makes it a quick job to level the binding to the sides. I use the sanding block and pipe to level both the top and back bindings to the sides at the same time so that ensures that the bindings get sanded only until they are flush with the sides and no further.

There are other ways to do this that work too, but this is what works for me.

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Once in a while you get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right - Robert Hunter

it's taking a rest.

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!

Now that I'm on to a second body, I was considering using the neck from this one. Having time to calm down after this mistake, I'm reconsidering fixing it and going ahead finishing it. The neck is already fit to this with a dovetail so, I can't see any reason not to complete it along with #2. I have to at least see how it sounds and plays. I also need to see how the EM6000 comes out. So I have one little area that I may be able to carve a little deeper and add a piece of rosewood or, just paint the spot to match. I'll get some pictures next time I'm in the shop. See what you think.

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!

Guitar #1 has a neck.

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!

Looks good!

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

Very nice, congrats on the marriage!

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Measure Twice,

Karl Borum

It's such a good feeling

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!

Making progress on the bridge this morning.



I noticed 2 dimensions.

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!

That's looking great Hutch. I sure do like the Stewmac tool for locating the bridge. Makes it very simple for me. They sure are pricey now though at $86.99. I paid about a quarter of that or maybe a 3rd way back when. https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-a ... ddlematic/

I just lay short pieces of nails to find the right spot by tuning the 2 e strings. Of course have rig up a jig for cutting the slot on the finished guitar. I really don't like that t part. I'd rather finish the bridge off the guitar but I don't trust measuring.

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!

Shaping and fitting the bridge this morning.

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!

There's an awful lot of work making a bridge. I'm thinking of making some router guides and making multiple bridges before the next guitar.

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!

OMG! I just noticed in this picture that my back strip of spruce doesn't go all the way to the neck block?? I guess I'll have to make a filler piece. Who knows where my mind was way back then.

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!

Sorry to say, but your pinholes are not in a line and with different distances. That will look awfull. I would make a new one.
Juergen

I see what you are saying. I hope it's just a camera thing. I used dividers to lay these out. Being my first guitar and having so many other warts, I'll probably fill and drill it if it's actually off as much as the picture shows. Thanks for pointing that out.

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!

If you measured everything correct, then you might have a problem with your drilling machine? I have had this problem with my drill press, to big tolerances. The drill runs out about 1,5 mm. I had to buy a new drilling machine and the was problem solved.
Juergen

My drill bit had some wobble but I had drilled 1/16" pilot holes and figured the bit should follow that.

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!

That's the sort of thing that I would NEVER notice unless someone pointed it out; or I put white pins in!

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Why be normal?

Once they are countersunk the A&D will be on top of one another.

I think Robbie O’Brien says that a straight line of holes is the hardest thing to do!!


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I have to share a bridge pin hole jig that Tony Karol published here a long time ago and I have used it for years. It’s extremely accurate. One thing I like is that using it you can drill the holes parallel to the saddle to allow even break angles and avoid having the holes along one grain line.

I slot the saddle first but it is not mandatory to use the jig. Again a Karol design for saddle slotting.

IMG_1319 by Terence Kennedy, on Flickr

Then you use a spacer to place the setback for the holes and using the desired pin spacing and the centerline of the bridge mark the spots for the high and low E. (The demo picture shows a bridge with holes already drilled.)

IMG_3848 by Terence Kennedy, on Flickr

IMG_3847 by Terence Kennedy, on Flickr

The pin hole jig holds the bridge and utilizes five spacers the exact center to center space desired. I just sanded a piece of wood to the exact thickness on the thickness sander and cut it into five pieces.

Then clamp the jig to the drill press table and align so the drill is centered on the high e with all the spacers in and the low with all out. A Brad point bit helps a lot. It’s a great system and can handle any possible spacing.

IMG_3844 by Terence Kennedy, on Flickr

IMG_3852 by Terence Kennedy, on Flickr

IMG_3854 by Terence Kennedy, on Flickr

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

Now to get a big table on my small drill press; square.

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Why be normal?

Terrance, I did that exact same thing back when I was building F5 mandolins. I used it for tuner spacing before I bought a jig. I plan on getting a jig for my next guitar.

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!

I ordered this. Thankfully I ha a billet Macasser ebony to make a bunch out of.

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!

So, yesterday's bridge is firewood but, i have plenty more wood. This is a piece of macasser ebony that I've had for many years, since Woodcraft in EG closed. Since it's too short for fretboards, it'll make a lot of bridges. I have the hole template on order so I won't make that mistake again, ever. I'm going to process the new ones a little different this time. Router templates will be my friend, once I make them. Anyway, here's the material.

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!

Good call!


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