Official Luthiers Forum!

Owned and operated by Lance Kragenbrink
It is currently Fri Aug 15, 2025 6:12 am


All times are UTC - 5 hours


Forum rules


Be nice, no cussin and enjoy!




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 11 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 7:49 am 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo
User avatar

Joined: Mon Apr 20, 2009 5:15 pm
Posts: 176
First name: Sondre
Country: Norway
Status: Amateur
I have a D-28 with a resonance problem. When I pluck the open G-string, there is a bright and strong overtone at pretty much exactly 2165 Hz. I can hear it when I mute the G-string and play the 5th fret on the D-string as well, though not quite as clearly. It is really intense. Any idea what this might be?

Thanks,
Sondre


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 10:51 am 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2008 7:15 pm
Posts: 7555
First name: Ed
Last Name: Bond
City: Nanaimo
Country: Canada
Focus: Build
Status: Professional
No idea what it is, but I get that from time to time as well. Different freq mind you...


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 11:51 am 
Offline
Koa
Koa
User avatar

Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2009 1:59 am
Posts: 678
First name: Eric
Last Name: Reid
City: Ben Lomond
State: CA
Zip/Postal Code: 95005
Country: USA
Status: Professional
That's the 11th partial of the open G string. (2165/11=196.8 which is G3, 7 cents sharp. You would expect an upper partial to be a bit sharp.) So some part of your guitar must have a particularly strong resonance right at this frequency. You can go hunting for it with a bit of modeling clay or blue tack. Up that high, I think it could be almost anywhere: top, back, side, neck. Maybe Trevor or Alan could suggest some likely spots.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 11:59 am 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo
User avatar

Joined: Mon Apr 20, 2009 5:15 pm
Posts: 176
First name: Sondre
Country: Norway
Status: Amateur
Thanks Eric. I have tried muting some arbitrary areas of the guitar with my finger. No luck so far

Conveniently, the cooling fan in my laptop is producing exactly same pitch right now. Maybe I'm just going bonkers


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 1:29 pm 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member

Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2012 4:15 pm
Posts: 72
First name: Jake
State: CO
Zip/Postal Code: 80129
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
A piece of tubing can be useful when trying to find a localized, high frequency noise source. Also, remember that it could be an air cavity resonance as well.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 1:34 pm 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Wed Sep 08, 2010 12:17 am
Posts: 1292
First name: John
Last Name: Arnold
City: Newport
State: TN
Zip/Postal Code: 37821
Country: USA
Focus: Repair
Status: Professional
Have you tried muting the strings above the nut?

_________________
John


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 5:11 pm 
Offline
Koa
Koa
User avatar

Joined: Mon Sep 05, 2011 10:45 pm
Posts: 1484
First name: Trevor
Last Name: Gore
City: Sydney
Country: Australia
Focus: Build
Status: Professional
Eric Reid wrote:
That's the 11th partial of the open G string. (2165/11=196.8 which is G3, 7 cents sharp. You would expect an upper partial to be a bit sharp.) So some part of your guitar must have a particularly strong resonance right at this frequency. You can go hunting for it with a bit of modeling clay or blue tack. Up that high, I think it could be almost anywhere: top, back, side, neck. Maybe Trevor or Alan could suggest some likely spots.

If it's loud enough to annoy you, and it's coming from the box, you should be able to see it on a spectrogram and using Chladni patterns. The size of the nodal areas will be getting down toward the size of the gaps between the braces. But you'll need to Chladni it to figure out which areas to work on.

On the other hand, JA may well be on the money and that's a pretty simple fix.

_________________
Trevor Gore, Luthier. Australian hand made acoustic guitars, classical guitars; custom guitar design and build; guitar design instruction.

http://www.goreguitars.com.au


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2015 2:58 pm 
Offline
Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Thu Jun 12, 2014 3:04 pm
Posts: 5
First name: Wade
Last Name: Bick
City: Jenks
State: OK
Zip/Postal Code: 74037
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Being an amateur and a newbie, I'm really curious, how did you determine that you had an overtone at "pretty much exactly 2165 Hz."? I can imagine being able to detect an overtone around a particular string or position on the fretboard (and therefore the note), but the fact that you specified the exact frequency implies to me that you used something to measure the problem "area". Are you using a tuner that displays the frequency? Did you detect the overtone by ear or was that also measured?

Thanks...


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Mar 22, 2015 5:55 pm 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo
User avatar

Joined: Mon Apr 20, 2009 5:15 pm
Posts: 176
First name: Sondre
Country: Norway
Status: Amateur
Trevor Gore wrote:
Eric Reid wrote:
That's the 11th partial of the open G string. (2165/11=196.8 which is G3, 7 cents sharp. You would expect an upper partial to be a bit sharp.) So some part of your guitar must have a particularly strong resonance right at this frequency. You can go hunting for it with a bit of modeling clay or blue tack. Up that high, I think it could be almost anywhere: top, back, side, neck. Maybe Trevor or Alan could suggest some likely spots.

If it's loud enough to annoy you, and it's coming from the box, you should be able to see it on a spectrogram and using Chladni patterns. The size of the nodal areas will be getting down toward the size of the gaps between the braces. But you'll need to Chladni it to figure out which areas to work on.

On the other hand, JA may well be on the money and that's a pretty simple fix.

I just played it through a spectrum analyzer, and I can see a slight peak around that frequency. If I understand you correctly, what I need to do is e.g. stiffen up the antinode areas that show up in the Chladni pattern when the top is driven at 2165 Hz. Is that correct-ish?

I have tried muting the strings above the nut, that's not where the problem lies, unfortunately.

CheapSquier wrote:
Being an amateur and a newbie, I'm really curious, how did you determine that you had an overtone at "pretty much exactly 2165 Hz."? I can imagine being able to detect an overtone around a particular string or position on the fretboard (and therefore the note), but the fact that you specified the exact frequency implies to me that you used something to measure the problem "area". Are you using a tuner that displays the frequency? Did you detect the overtone by ear or was that also measured?

Thanks...

I can hear the overtone clearly, so I just used a sine tone generator to help determine the frequency by ear.

Thanks,
Sondre


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Mar 22, 2015 9:47 pm 
Offline
Koa
Koa
User avatar

Joined: Mon Sep 05, 2011 10:45 pm
Posts: 1484
First name: Trevor
Last Name: Gore
City: Sydney
Country: Australia
Focus: Build
Status: Professional
Sondre wrote:
If I understand you correctly, what I need to do is e.g. stiffen up the antinode areas that show up in the Chladni pattern when the top is driven at 2165 Hz. Is that correct-ish?

The idea is to use Chladni patterns to find the problematic mode, then shift its frequency. The frequency shifting is done by altering the mode's effective mass or its effective stiffness, so you can shift up or down in frequency, doesn't matter which, so long as you get the frequency off the string harmonic frequency. The usual trick is to mass load one or more of the anti-nodes of the troublesome mode, which will then drop the frequency of that mode. Generally, not much mass is required and the skill is in finding a place to stick the mass which has the effect you want, but doesn't "kill" any good stuff that happens to be going on. Changing stiffness can be done by gluing on more wood, but you need to be sure you're adding stiffness rather than just mass. At the frequencies you're looking at, I suspect that local plate thinning (to reduce stiffness) might be more effective than shaving braces, if you choose not to add mass.

_________________
Trevor Gore, Luthier. Australian hand made acoustic guitars, classical guitars; custom guitar design and build; guitar design instruction.

http://www.goreguitars.com.au


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 8:10 am 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo
User avatar

Joined: Mon Apr 20, 2009 5:15 pm
Posts: 176
First name: Sondre
Country: Norway
Status: Amateur
Thanks a bunch! PS. Your books are awesome


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 11 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: TRein and 13 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group
phpBB customization services by 2by2host.com