Official Luthiers Forum!

I use scrape wood as a brake-just put it up against the blade!
Mike
I've tries many blades-there seems to be no real difference between the high grade ones.
Mine walks through 8+" of Coco !!!!
I love it !
Mike

Filippo-where's the dust ?
Man-your shop is like "HESH"clean !!!

A number of us own the bigger Rikon and we're all very happy with it. Can't be beat for $1,000. The Grizzly 17's seem to be the other saw folks like in this price range. Note that the Rikon 18 actually has a wheel radius which is actually close to 19".

Bearings are big and they are sealed. I've not heard of any quality issues with Rikon's motors or sealed bearings. My only complaints with this saw
a) the base (bottom) could be stiffer. The rest of the chassis is plenty stiff.
b) Make sure you have adequate air speed - the dust collection under the lower bearing set really needs flow. I'm working on some modifications to help the airflow for those of us not running 5hp and 8" suction ... but I'm not done with the mods to recommend them.
c) Hard to read the measurement intervals on the fence. I solved that by uniquely marking 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 ticks with unique marks (with a Sharpie). Problem solved.
d) Someone needs to figure out how to install a break on this saw. It rolls on for a long time. This is annoying both for setup changes (have to wait while the saw spins down) and just generally listening to it run on. A minor nit.

I'm currently fooling with the airflow under the bearing set. I wish I could open up the metal under the bearing to get more airflow up through the bearing set, but I believe that is impossible. The other option I'm considering is opening up the diagonal plate inside the chassis, across from the dust collection hole. This would increase airflow and would also direct that airflow across the blade. As well I've thought about putting a brush at this location to also help dislodge bits caught in the kerf. With effective dust collection at this point, one does not need collection in the lower compartment. A periodic vac suffices. To wit, I'm currently just running the dust collection under the bearing set.

Anyway hope some of this helps your thinking. If you buy one, I encourage you to design a brake ... I'm hoping someone does it!

Filippo

I know that the Lennox blades are tip top, but $132 is an awful lot of money for a bandsaw blade.

I emailed Woodcraft customer service, and they tell me no sale of rikon 18" in july for $999.
Is it only at a specific woodcraft, or are they just going to announce it in july?

I can tell you that I went the hard way and got one of those Masterwoodwolfslicers and got about 3 cuts into 8" Cocobolo before it started to ruin the cuts. I ordered the Lennox carbide immediately and it's worth every cent. Liked it so much I bought the Diemaster for extreme fine cuts and that works for the small detail cutting for purfling..

The rikon and the griz are both fine light duty Taiwan verticals but definitely invest in the woodmaster CT. The biggest problem you will face is the fact that resawing without powerfeed is simply a pain and there is not a 17'' or 19" bandsaw heavy enough for a proper resaw powerfeed set-up. Get by with what you want to afford but if you start to resaw a lot think about a Northfield or used Tannewitz or Oliver. T

I am in no way trying to denigrate the initial poster's selection of a bandsaw, nor do I have a lack of understanding of the needs of a luthier. I am simply replying to the needs of straight cuts and minimum waste, a requirement of the initial post. Frankly, light grade set-ups waste valuable wood, hand pushing is ineffective. I am suggesting that investment in superior sawyer equipment saves great wood and is simply an investment.

P.S. If anyone knows of a Tannewitz in any good working condition for half the price of a rikon I will buy it. T.

The grizzly 17" is on sale right now for only $698. It's worth a look.

Hey Tim, check out http://www.irsauctions.com

It may take some time and some looking to find an auction in your area, but you can definitely grab an old tannewitz there for a couple hundred buck. Only problem (for me) is that they are all 220/440 3 phase. I don't have industrial power in the shop. Also keep in mind that you can buy without showing up to check it out. But shipping and handling adds quite a bit to the price. With any luck, you can find one in your area.