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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2025 11:26 am 
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I am just starting to build a copy of an 1830 Panormo built by Louis Panormo in England. It is a 25" scale fan braced nylon 6 string

I have all the parts prepped including joining the top and back.

In looking through my reference photos I just noticed Panormo's tops are joined with the wide growth rings at the joint and the narrow rings at the outside of the guitar. I have a few photos of other years of his guitars and they all look the same way. My top is joined the opposite so I will have to fix that.

I am not well versed in gut strung vintage instruments other than the Panormo so I am wondering if this is normal practice and if so what is the reason behind this?


If someone whants pictures of this I will be happy to post them.


Thanks for the help,

Bob


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2025 1:39 pm 
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Normal practice varies by builder, as I'm sure you know. Panormo's bracing has the center fans very straight (i.e. same orientation as soundboard grain). The outer fans are quite skewed to about 30°. Straighter fans are stronger in resisting string pull, while skewed fans are weaker. Maybe old Louis was compensating for this by orienting the finer grain, which is presumably stronger, towards the edges.
Good luck with the pin bridge. The string holes just barely miss the fans in the original.

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These users thanked the author TRein for the post: RusRob (Thu Nov 13, 2025 6:50 pm)
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2025 4:34 pm 
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Ring spacing has nothing to do with strength or stiffness of the top.

Normal practice these days is to join top halves on the 'bark' edge. This can facilitate getting better-quartered wood, which has higher cross grain stiffness, in the center of the top. Normally growth slows down as the tree gets bigger, so the ring lines tend to be closer together in the center of the top. However, trees can also develop more twist in their growth as they get larger, which produces more run out at the center join. This reduces the long-grain stiffness, and causes problems with bridge gluing. With a top like that a 'heart match', putting the bark side toward the outside of the top, can be beneficial. It's possible that's what Panormo was doing in the tops you've seen.

The only Panormo I've ever worked on had a one-piece top.



These users thanked the author Alan Carruth for the post: RusRob (Thu Nov 13, 2025 6:51 pm)
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2025 6:22 pm 
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Thanks for the response guys,

TRein wrote:
Good luck with the pin bridge. The string holes just barely miss the fans in the original.


Yea, I see a number of them that he literally cut through the edges of the fan braces. I have this all drawn up in CAD and will use a paper template to locate the holes correctly.


Alan Carruth wrote:
Ring spacing has nothing to do with strength or stiffness of the top.


I would have thought the tighter the spacing of growth rings the stiffer the wood would be, like little I beams.

Alan Carruth wrote:
The only Panormo I've ever worked on had a one-piece top.


Perhaps that is what I am seeing here. I have never seen a Panormo in person so I can only go by pictures and what has been written about (not a lot)

Thanks again for the help,

Bob


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2025 10:26 pm 
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The picture is very illustrative. Even though the wider grain is in the center the latewood lines are quite thick. It appears to me this would yield stiffer wood than the edges, where the latewood is finer.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2025 10:30 am 
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The more I look at it, the more that sems to be a one-piece top. Note the 'knot shadow' behind the bridge between the B and E strings, which is not mirrored in the other side. Of course, it's hard to be sure with a picture.

RusRob wrote:
"I would have thought the tighter the spacing of growth rings the stiffer the wood would be, like little I beams."

TRein wrote:
" It appears to me this would yield stiffer wood than the edges, where the latewood is finer."

It's not a matter of how many lines there are per inch, but of the proportion of hard late wood and softer earlywood. 50 lines per inch or 5 would end up the same if the latewood lines are always just 1/3 as wide as the earlywood. Usually with tighter grain spacing the latewood proportion goes up; the wood gets stiffer but its also denser, and the density rises faster. You can make it a little thinner, but for a given stiffness it weighs more. That makes the top harder to drive: it's less 'responsive' at low levels, but can often be 'pushed' harder without the sound 'breaking up'. I'm not sure the heavier top actually puts out more sound at that point, but it can sound better.

I often see relatively thicker late wood lines from very large trees, and closer to the bottom. I suspect that's the tree adapting to the static load. One local wood supplier to the music trade pointed out to me that you can often find less latewood, and wider ring spacing, higher up in the tree. He used to label each piece of wood with a code that indicated which cant (drum) it came from, and which quadrant of the tree. If you found a piece you liked it was relatively easy to find another from the same part of that tree, or a comparable tree.



These users thanked the author Alan Carruth for the post: Durero (Fri Nov 14, 2025 3:13 pm)
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2025 11:06 am 
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Alan Carruth wrote:
The more I look at it, the more that sems to be a one-piece top. Note the 'knot shadow' behind the bridge between the B and E strings, which is not mirrored in the other side. Of course, it's hard to be sure with a picture.


I recall reading that some early guitar makers would join their tops but cut the tops based off of one side, so the join line was off to the trebel side of the guitar. I wonder if that is what Panormo did?

Alan Carruth wrote:
It's not a matter of how many lines there are per inch, but of the proportion of hard late wood and softer earlywood. 50 lines per inch or 5 would end up the same if the latewood lines are always just 1/3 as wide as the earlywood. Usually with tighter grain spacing the latewood proportion goes up; the wood gets stiffer but its also denser, and the density rises faster. You can make it a little thinner, but for a given stiffness it weighs more. That makes the top harder to drive: it's less 'responsive' at low levels, but can often be 'pushed' harder without the sound 'breaking up'. I'm not sure the heavier top actually puts out more sound at that point, but it can sound better.


Thank you for that explanation Alan, I can see how that would make sense of what I am seeing in his tops.


TRein wrote:
The picture is very illustrative. Even though the wider grain is in the center the latewood lines are quite thick. It appears to me this would yield stiffer wood than the edges, where the latewood is finer.


Yea I think that Alan pretty much explained the "why"

Thanks for replying [:Y:]


Thanks again guys for the help in explaining this,

Cheers,
Bob


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2025 11:38 am 
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Ok, I just found this PDF I had saved a while back.


All credits go to RM Mottola at Lutherie Information Website

https://www.liutaiomottola.com/

In writing about the Panormo

Quote:
Non-bookmatched top.

None of the original instruments I examined during my project had bookmatched tops. All had single piece tops with the wide grain on the bass side. Westbrook indicates that some instruments do make use of two piece tops but in these the top is essentially one piece but with a narrow filler piece added on one side, so the seam between the two pieces of the top is way over on one side. Neither of these features is uncommon in guitars of the period. The instruments were narrow, and wider top material was probably more readily available then. The technique for extending the width of slightly too narrow top material is interesting though. This certainly would make for more efficient use of wood than would using a bookmatched top. Westbrook states that more asymmetrical fan bracing was used for these two piece tops, and from the photos in his dissertation it would not surprise me if this was done simply to be sure a fan crossed the top seam to help keep that joint together under adverse conditions.


And that would explain this small detail drawing I saved that shows asymmetrical bracing (I thought it was a mistake).

So for anyone interested I hope it helps someone that wants to build a copy of a Panormo.

Cheers,
Bob


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Last edited by RusRob on Sun Dec 07, 2025 11:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2025 10:35 am 
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Regarding traditional carved-top instruments, it seems like the bark sides would be joined since splitting the wood creates wedges with the bark side being wider. This would yield a shape easier to carve a raised area in the center. I reckon this may not apply to flat-top instruments.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2025 6:54 pm 
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dzsmith:
That's the usual way, alright. If you get the wedges from the right size of tree the annual ring lines will end up very close to perpendicular to the surface all the way across the top, which gives the highest cross stiffness and greatest stability.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2025 9:13 am 
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Quote:
And that would explain this small detail drawing I saved that shows asymmetrical bracing (I thought it was a mistake).


Yes. I've only looked at the insides of a few "in the Spanish style" Panormo guitars, but James Westbrook's dissertation has quite a few photos. From all of this, it appeared symmetrical fans were used for all one piece tops. In the cases where an extension to the width of the top plate was added, the most common approach appears to be to move the outer fan brace so it "cleats" the seam. In at least one case an additional fan brace was added, going from the tail end of the outer braces and angled off toward the waist, again, cleating the seam in the top plate. The latter of course could have been the result of a later repair.

BTW, the drawing from Davide Serracini is excellent. And also BTW, James Westbrook's dissertation in now available as a book: Guitar Making in Nineteenth-Century London: Louis Panormo and his Contemporaries. Very expensive, but definitive.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2025 12:26 pm 
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@rmmottola
Thanks for commenting here. I had no idea how Panormo set up his tops until I found your site.

I have been planning this build for almost 2 years now, I had a bit of a setback and fractured my back which took me out of commission
for about a year. In that time I have been collecting as much info on the Panormo so I could draw my own plans which I am just finishing up now.

My plans for this guitar is to build it as accurately as I can to the 1930 high end that Panormo made. My intent is to create this as an aged
instrument as if it were just found in a closet.

I am planning on documenting the process here so I will be starting a new thread on it pretty soon.

Thanks again for stopping by and sharing ;)

Cheers
Bob


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