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PostPosted: Thu Oct 26, 2017 1:57 pm 
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What might be everyones preference? If you could please explain why as well so I have a better understanding.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 26, 2017 2:34 pm 
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Unslotted
If you're on FB here's a link with pics -https://www.facebook.com/a2guitars/photos/a.102289403211488.2853.100681526705609/102289456544816/?type=3&theater

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.



These users thanked the author Colin North for the post: Hesh (Thu Oct 26, 2017 3:12 pm)
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 26, 2017 2:37 pm 
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I like unslotted. IF you keyhole the pin holes, which you should, then you don't need a slot in the bridge pin. THe unslotted pin holds the string in the keyhole ramp and slot and the ball end rests right on the plate where it belongs.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 26, 2017 3:15 pm 
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Or, in other words cheap, mass produced slotted pins have been damaging bridge plates since some corner cutting sort invented them to save on semi-skilled labor at the factory....

We have 1870's Martins with unslotted pins with virtually zero wear on the bridge plate because of unslotted pins.

I'll add that 3 degree is more desirable as well over 5 degree also because more string ball ends up firmly on the bridge plate not the edge of the hole in the bridge plate.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 26, 2017 3:45 pm 
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I prefer unslotted, spotted pins :)

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These users thanked the author SteveSmith for the post (total 2): Bryan Bear (Fri Oct 27, 2017 9:51 am) • Hesh (Fri Oct 27, 2017 12:44 am)
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 26, 2017 4:40 pm 
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Makes sense, Hesh. So those of us (me being one) with an abundant supply of slotted pins need merely turn them 180 after re-cutting the string slot?


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These users thanked the author Rocky Road for the post: Hesh (Fri Oct 27, 2017 12:46 am)
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 26, 2017 11:19 pm 
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Rocky Road wrote:
Makes sense, Hesh. So those of us (me being one) with an abundant supply of slotted pins need merely turn them 180 after re-cutting the string slot?


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I wouldn't. Assuming the guitar will change hands a few times throughout its existence, one of the owners will most likely turn the pins around "the right way" and then the bridge slots will accelerate the wear process.



These users thanked the author DennisK for the post (total 2): dpetrzelka (Fri Oct 27, 2017 12:25 pm) • Hesh (Fri Oct 27, 2017 12:46 am)
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 12:49 am 
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Rocky Road wrote:
Makes sense, Hesh. So those of us (me being one) with an abundant supply of slotted pins need merely turn them 180 after re-cutting the string slot?


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Hey Rocky! I wouldn't and agree completely with Dennis. Because the top, plate and bridge are now slotted (once it's converted to unslotted pins) if someone did turn the pin around to utilize the slot it would be very damaging to the bridge plate because it's now double slotted. I know in your example that you are intending that the instrument doesn't change hands but what if it does for some unforeseen reason?

You are correct though that turning around the pins is a fix provided that no one ever doesn't understand why the pins are turned around.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 5:35 am 
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Anybody ever just filled the slots in the pins? Should be fairly simple I would have thought.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.



These users thanked the author Colin North for the post: Bryan Bear (Fri Oct 27, 2017 9:52 am)
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 9:55 am 
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Colin North wrote:
Anybody ever just filled the slots in the pins? Should be fairly simple I would have thought.


I haven't yet but I have several sets of slotted ebony pins that I intend to do just that. I haven't settled on the moste efficient/effective way to do it yet. It could be one of those things that takes too long to get it to look nice making it not worth the effort. But I have the pins already. . .

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 9:59 am 
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All this talk about saving the bridge plate but we're missing the obvious advantage of unslotted pins.... it's the tone, man! beehive

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 10:13 am 
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"Anybody ever just filled the slots in the pins? Should be fairly simple I would have thought."

I do - I just cut thin strips of corian and glue them in. You can also do this to tighten up a set of pins for slightly oversize holes. Cheap plastic pins have tested to be tonally superior to most other materials. [headinwall]



These users thanked the author Clay S. for the post: Bryan Bear (Fri Oct 27, 2017 10:26 am)
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 10:35 am 
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Clay S. wrote:
"Anybody ever just filled the slots in the pins? Should be fairly simple I would have thought."

I do - I just cut thin strips of corian and glue them in. You can also do this to tighten up a set of pins for slightly oversize holes. Cheap plastic pins have tested to be tonally superior to most other materials. [headinwall]


I'm glad you said that Clay. I was envisioning all the effort it would take to get the filler to match the cone of the tapered pin. My reasoning was that if it were flat across it would take away some of the advantage of it being unslotted and it would encourage people to line the filler strip up with the string. I now realize that having the strip slightly proud, would force the strip to be aligned with the string (keying into the string slot in the bridge) but also help keep the string ball pushed up against the bridge plate.

I haven't thought this idea through too much; it could be all wrong. Thoughts?

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 10:43 am 
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bcombs510 wrote:
All this talk about saving the bridge plate but we're missing the obvious advantage of unslotted pins.... it's the tone, man! beehive


Trouble maker....;)

I just bought a Jimi Hendrix "authorized" Fuzz face pedal, does this mean I will play and sound and even look just like him? ;)

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 10:55 am 
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Hesh wrote:
bcombs510 wrote:
All this talk about saving the bridge plate but we're missing the obvious advantage of unslotted pins.... it's the tone, man! beehive


Trouble maker....;)

I just bought a Jimi Hendrix "authorized" Fuzz face pedal, does this mean I will play and sound and even look just like him? ;)


Do you like it? I've been looking for a pretty serious fuzz pedal for a while. I like my Big Muff but I also want to get that nasty, TheStooges, style fuzz that makes your guitar sound like it's cooking bacon.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 11:01 am 
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jfmckenna wrote:
I like unslotted. IF you keyhole the pin holes, which you should, then you don't need a slot in the bridge pin. THe unslotted pin holds the string in the keyhole ramp and slot and the ball end rests right on the plate where it belongs.

+1

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 11:06 am 
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jfmckenna wrote:
Hesh wrote:
bcombs510 wrote:
All this talk about saving the bridge plate but we're missing the obvious advantage of unslotted pins.... it's the tone, man! beehive


Trouble maker....;)

I just bought a Jimi Hendrix "authorized" Fuzz face pedal, does this mean I will play and sound and even look just like him? ;)


Do you like it? I've been looking for a pretty serious fuzz pedal for a while. I like my Big Muff but I also want to get that nasty, TheStooges, style fuzz that makes your guitar sound like it's cooking bacon.



Yeah it's pretty radical and I do like it. You have to disconnect the input cable though or it eats batteries. I just got Lindy Fralin pups on my strat too and they are killer!

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