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It looks like I have a chance to buy a used Performax Shop Pro 25 for a decent price. Any thoughts on this drum sander? It ticks all the boxes for me: wide enough for the largest of tops and backs, not cantilevered, good drum and sandpaper clamps, good motor, good power feed. Supermax (the folks who kept making Performax sanders after Jet bought Performax) still makes it, so I figure parts are available. Does anyone have experience with this model? Thanks for your help.

Performax products are very good values, typically. Sounds like a good opportunity, as long as it can sand evenly.

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"I want to know what kind of pickups Vince Gill uses in his Tele, because if I had those, as good of a player as I am, I'm sure I could make it sound like that.
Only badly."

I have one and have been using it for the last year or so for luthierey and some furniture projects. I have had no surprises with it and it outperforms any cantilevered model I've had in the past. I have a dedicated dust collection unit attached and it captures 80% or so.
No regrets.

Tom

Thanks for the info! I've got great dust collection, so no worries there. I've been using a Performax (pre Jet) 10-20, but I would much rather use a wider and non-cantilevered drum sander. I probably would not have bought one new, but this used one popped up unexpectedly, and so I feel like I should jump on it.

Thanks again!

I have one. Have owned it for 10 years or so. Can be adjusted to be very accurate. I have had and am currently having tracking issues with the conveyor belt. I have a friend who had one and had the same issues. To be fair my shop floor is very uneven and the lunar module base is pretty flimsy. I think I am getting some racking. I can't make any meaningful adjustments until I move into my new shop (with a level floor) . There are definitely some improvements to be made on the base to make it more sturdy. I would make sure it tracks well .
All machines are projects, there is not a one where you don't have to fix something and then learn to squint one eye, stick out your tongue and use a little body english to get it to work accurately.
L.

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Cut to size.....Beat to fit.....Paint to match.

Thanks, Link. I looked at the owner's manual for the Supermax version of this machine, and it does acknowledge that tracking issues can be caused by an uneven floor, which causes the conveyor to sit cockeyed. There are adjustment solutions outlined in the manual. Hopefully, if I buy this machine, I can get everything adjusted the right way. I appreciate the heads up.

I have owned one for years. Works flawlessly. I fitted it for a digital readout using a $75 mill drill spindle dro.

Only criticism is that it tends to gum up with rosewood due to lack of oscillation.

Moving up would mean a 25" wide belt sander which I cannot justify.

Congrats Don - you got it! I'm jealous, now I have to get one too.

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John Lewis
Wannabe builder owned by 2 crazy dachshunds

John--

Yeah, it worked out pretty well for me! I was the only bidder, so my minimum bid ($900) won the auction. I think location worked in my favor. Not much demand for an esoteric item like this in the Lexington, KY area, I guess.

If the description is mostly accurate (it was described as being in excellent shape and working perfectly), then I feel like this is a really good deal. Even if it needs some TLC, it still feels like I am getting a good deal. The drum sanders that are a step up from the 16-32 are not easy to find used and within driving distance for me. This one was the right combo of size, quality, price, and location. I would have kicked myself if I had not bought it.

Picking this baby up tomorrow! Now I need to sell my trusty 10-20 to make room.

Way to go Don, $900 sounds like a very good deal.
If you have room, keep the 10-20 for smaller items like fretboards, binding, head plates. Items that are not so wide. Unless you need the cash to go towards the Shop Pro.


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I wish I had room and could have kept my 10-20.

There's really no room for me to keep both. Fortunately, the Shop Pro 25 has the same minimum stock size requirements as the 10-20, so I won't lose the ability to do all the little stuff. I do use the 10-20 on a lot of parts.

Hey Don-

I lucked out and found a Performax S/T (1992 US-made 22-44) about 2 hours north of me. I'm going to go pick it up after work on Monday - the guy wants $750 cash but won't hold it for me. He keeps saying, "Whoever puts cash in hand first, gets it." Hopefully when I call him after work, he'll still have it. Let us know how your sander turns out.

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John Lewis
Wannabe builder owned by 2 crazy dachshunds

Good luck, John! I picked mine up today. It works, and it is in really good shape. The only thing that wasn't up to snuff was the switched outlet on the conveyor; the switch needs to be replaced. Not a big deal for a sander that has been in service this long.

I have to leave it stacked in 3 pieces (leg set, conveyor system, and everything else) until I rearrange my space a bit. The leg span is almost 4 feet square, which I can handle, but it calls for some shuffling.

Hope your purchase works out.

I just got back with mine about 20 minutes ago. It is 25 years old but in great shape - the seller replaced the old motor control and the feed belt. It works like new and he bought all the accessories to go with it. It is already set up ready to go - I can't wait to try it out tomorrow.

I'm glad you got a good one too! That sander ought to keep you happy for many years.

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John Lewis
Wannabe builder owned by 2 crazy dachshunds

My Shop Pro 25 is from the mid 1990s, too. Made to last, that's for sure. I talked to the parts guy at Supermax yesterday to order a few little things (the dead switch, a few other minor bits), and he said he was probably the person who put mine together. He offered a few hints on getting everything adjusted. This is shaping up to be a decent buy!

I have a supermax 25" sander. Its awesome. Except for the belt tracking. There was a black 3m belt with maroon lining that was discontinued. I am now running a 3m 100u belt, and its marginal at best. You get to be pretty quick with the tracking reset. I have heard there is now a better belt, but I have yet to try it. But it is a great machine.

Finally had time to put the Shop Pro 25 back together where it will live in my shop. The foot span makes it impossible to get through a doorway fully assembled. This thing is a beast! I have to count it as my biggest used tool score.

I fixed the little stuff in the conveyor electrical box that needed fixing. I also ordered a new conveyor belt I will install later. The existing belt works and tracks well, but it has seen better days.

Total investment: $900 for the machine, $80 in parts to spruce it up, $20 in gas money to go pick it up. $1,000 total, with a new conveyor belt and some new electrical innards. I feel pretty good about that.

One of my first projects will be to build a better dust hood that takes advantage of my heftier than normal dust collection system. A single 4" connection is not the best way to go.

Anyway, here's a photo of my new old drum sander:

Nice buy Don.
I have the 37" version of this machine. It has been adequate for me for millwork applications and great for guitar work.
A few things I have learned in 7 years of owning this machine;
This is not a finishing sander, rarely do I use finer than 80. Unless you use ridiculously small increments, finer Grits tend to burn quickly. I keep a dry erase marker around the machine, and mark the burns on the white name decal.
If you need to replace the drive belt, use a link style belt.(you will thank me later)(actually thanks to Ken Cierp)
The pre-marked rolls from klingspors woodworking shop have been the best for me. The blue zircon tends to burn less. Definetly worth the extra bucks.
10 thou. Max. is likely all you get per pass, averages maybe 1/8 turn.
Run the machine at full conveyor speed, faster is less heat.
For the past few years I have only run 1 drum with paper, usually 60 or 80, and have raised the rear drum up to its highest point. This reduces the load on the motor and maintains the conveyor speed a little better.
After changing paper, recheck the tension adjuster after a few passes, seems like you cannot get a perfectly tight wind, and the adjusters max out. I have ruined a full wrap more than once by not checking.
This thing will plug your dust collector in a matter of minutes, depending on the collector and the wood you run. The filters on my 3 hp have maybe 10 minutes of sanding before I go upstairs to clean them. Luckily the filters have manual cleaning externally mounted.
The tracking on some of these has been an issue. Not sure that it can be solved, maybe new conveyor will help, but it seem to go one side to the other under load somewhat randomly and seems to want fairly regular tweaking. Guess thats why the wrenches are built-in for tracking adjustment.

Happy sanding.

B

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My memory is so good, sometimes I remember things that never happened.

Great tips, Brian! I appreciate it. Yeah, I am used to only using the drum sander for stock removal rather than smoothing the surface. I have some finer paper that came with the machine, but I will probably only buy 80 grit, because that is what I have used before. I'm ahead of the curve on buying the right paper; I got a box of the pre-marked Klingspor 80 grit already.

I do have a question for you regarding your 37 X 2 sander. I know it has three 4" dust collector connections on top, spread out across the length of the drum. Does that do a good job of capturing the dust? I run 6" PVC for my dust collector (a ClearVue), and if I build a new hood, I can either go with a single 6" connection in the middle, or two 4" connections, each about 1/3 in from the end of the drum. I'm trying to figure out which one will work better.

Thanks for your input.

Two spread out for sure.
Why build a new hood? Cut the holes where you want in the existing hood, fasten on the new male ends to accept the 4" hose. Use a 6x4 wye to adapt. plug the center hole.
The most reasonable place for duct work bits is from a local HVAC wholesaler if there is one in you area.

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My memory is so good, sometimes I remember things that never happened.

Well, the existing hood is rather flimsy plastic, and it just feels like it would be a lot of work to cut the holes, attach a male 4" fitting somehow, plug up the middle hole, etc. It feels easier to just make a new one out of plywood and PVC. I've done it before. Plus, if I ever want to sell this (doubtful, but possible), I would want the ability to put it back into its original condition.

Thanks again for the insight on two smaller holes vs. one big hole.

Didn't realize it was plastic, mine is sheet metal.
A hole saw would make that hole in seconds, I would then glue in two plastic blast gates, then that tool can be isolated so other outlets can function at full suck.
My 2cts.

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My memory is so good, sometimes I remember things that never happened.

I appreciate it, Brian. I already have blast gates at the drop for every machine. I do feel that, all things considered, I will be better off making rather than modifying. We'll see what I come up with. Thanks for your help.

Don, In addition to Brian's good suggestions get yourself a large crape rubber block and use it often. Also get some scrap pieces of acrylic. You can use those to help remove the burned resign build ups. Use like you do the rubber block. Don't be afraid to go at it hard. I use mostly 60 grit. I have a few 100 grits to remove the 60 scratches. For me 80 is not coarse enough to remove any decent amount of material without burning and not fine enough to transition to hand sanding. Use the whole belt so you have even wear.
Lastly be careful using the crape block. Two hands well braced so that if something grabs your hands don't go towards the belt. Those road rashes take a long time to heal! DAMHIK
Ok, ask me, bike racing and grinders and sanders of various types.
L.

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Cut to size.....Beat to fit.....Paint to match.