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In 2004 Michael Fortune published an article in Fine Woodworking magazine about bandsaw setup, resawing, and blades. It is at odds with the current thinking on this forum of high horsepower, high tension, and wide blades for resawing. He uses a 1/2" 3 t.p.i. non-carbide blade, 1/3 HP (!!), and less tension on his blade than the scale on his Canadian General bandsaw. Here is a link:
http://www.ccwwa.org/NEWSITE/plans/BandsawTuneup1.pdf
I remember Krenov mentioned in his books that he used a 1/2" 3 t.p.i. blade. Back Krenov's day there weren't Woodmasters, Resaw Kings, Trimasters, etc, so it may be a moot point.
Fortune's take on bandsaws is worth analyzing however. There are quite a few testimonials of his students on the web that sing the praises of Fortune's bandsaw approach.

The photos show him resawing 5" maple, and the finished cut as shown in the photos is hardly smooth.

I get a much cleaner cut on 9" maple or 8" cocobolo or ebony than he's getting on 5" maple.

For most people, it doesn't matter. Most people will never need to resaw 9" flamed maple or 8" cocobolo or ebony. And thickness sanding the roughness out is not a big deal.

He points out that his approach allows you to leave the same blade on the bandsaw all the time, because a 1/2" blade also works well for rip cuts, etc. The problem for me is that I never need a 1/2" blade. When I'm not resawing, I need a 1/4" 3tpi blade that can cut in a tight radius for jigs, etc., when needed. And that same 1/4" blade works fine for rip cuts and for resawing material up to a few inches thick. When I have real resawing to do, I put on the Resaw King. IMHO, the 1/2" blade is not great for anything. But for most people, the way they use their bandsaws, the 1/2" blade is probably just fine.

I wonder if he was to spend a day with a 3HP bandsaw would he ever look at the 1/3 again ?

I guess it's the same with anything you read.

If it seems valid, you give it a try then judge for yourself.

I've resawed on a 3/4 HP 14" saw with carbon blade & on a 5 HP 36" saw with carbide blade. I prefer the latter, just my experience but YMMV.

Kevin Looker

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What makes sense for someone who uses the bandsaw for a number of different things, might not for someone who wants to do one thing exceptionally well. There are ways to do occasional resawing that don't require large saws, expensive blades and extremely large motors. A 1/3 hp motor does seem awfully under powered to do much resawing, especially with the drag from a 1/2 in wide blade, but if his saw is exceptionally well tuned I guess it works for him.
I have a 20 inch Delta -Rockwell bandsaw gathering dust in my shed because I can get by using a 14 inch saw for the amount of resawing I have been doing lately. If I was resawing wood every day I would move the junk from around it and put it to good use. For resawing, bigger is better, just not absolutely necessary.

It's kinda like a lot of things.

You can get a good result that works with pretty much any setup if you spend enough time figuring out how to do it.

Is it ideal for everybody?

Should it be adopted as the new normal conventional wisdom whereby high powered bandsaws with cool blades are obsolete or ridiculous? (I'm being extreme, I know, but that's how hyperbole works).

I hope not, I just ordered a 4HP 18 inch Laguna. I didn't go with the Resaw King, too expensive. I just went with a standard 3TPI 1 inch bimetal to start with. 'm sure it will work fine. They're on sale at Woodcraft.

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Actually, re-reading his article, I don't see what's so contrarian about it, other than he says to use less tension.

Everything else is pretty much what I've been doing with my 1.5 horsepower 14 inch Jet with the riser block.

I haven't had a problem with it other than having to change the blade quite frequently. This guy seems to think that's normal.

The 4HP 18 inch saw looks like it will be faster and more efficient if set up the same way. I'm sure the longer blades will stay cooler as well.

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@theguitarwhisperer


Congradulations on your saw, I am sure you will love it. I couldn't spring that much cash since my next purchase will be a thickness sander. I settled for the small one...


As far as the topic at hand, I have been doing some re-sawing on my 50 year old 14" craftsman with a 1/4 hp motor and yes... it does work, and I have figured out the best way to keep it cutting in a straight line but... I am sure my new one will do it a whole lot better (Laguna 14 SUV with a 3 hp motor).

So yes, I am sure that he is correct that it can be done because I have done it but it isn't fun. I am sure when I get my new one It will make it a lot more fun and less work.

Bob

I use exactly the same saw. Its an awesome saw.

I also use a 1/2" 3tpi blade as a standard, leaving it on almost all of the time and use it for almost everything. The saw is rated up t0 3/4" blades, but wider blades don't like the wheel diameter and fissures develop across the blade metal and the crack prematurely.

Sometimes I swap it out for a 1/4" 6 tpi for fine cutting, or a 1/8". But, generally, I leave it on almost all of the time. for my canoe shop its very useful.

I've also taken the upper guides off when I've had to cut 9" wood, instead of the 6" that the guides restrict me to. Some will say that this is dangerous and leaves exposed blade, however, there is no exposed blade as the wood takes up all available space. With a fresh blade I can cut 9" hard maple into nice 4mm slices.

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Man, I had to think long and hard between the 14 SUV and the LT18 3000. The 14 SUV is made just like the LT18 3000, just 14 instead of 18 inches, and 3 instead of 4 horses.

I went with the bigger one because I don't plan on buying another bandsaw ever again (unless I open a lumber business, and that ain't happening), I wanted to be able to use 1 inch blades (the spec says 1.25 but we all know that's a lie), and the difference was about $500, which, since I have no other tool purchases to make for a while, didn't mind in this case.

Realistically, the 18 is probably massive overkill for what I'm doing. I actually was intending to get the 14 SUV, and at th last minute decided to splurge, LOL!

Stock was suggesting the Grizzly, but I like Woodcraft and like to support local businesses when I can.

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Old growth, shmold growth!

@theguitarwhisperer
You will probably like the 18 better, especially after seeing the picture of you in the other thread... It appears you are a big guy and the 14 has a lower than normal table. That is how they get the 14" resaw capacity. But HEY,,, who doesn't love more horsepower and only $500 more...
When you are spending that much 500 is just relative. I am plainngin on buying the Jet 16-32 drum sander so $500 will go a long way for that.

@douglas ingram,
I assume you are talking about the Craftsman 14? Mine has been a good saw for its age. I got it from my dad when he passed away almost 25 years ago and he got it from my uncle about 20 years before I got it. I will still keep it with a 1/8" blade for doing small stuff and keep the SUV for resawing and bigger stuff.

Cheers,
Bob

Well I did use a small saw at first then I got a 19 in and was able to use a wider blade. In all honesty as a wood worker most of my life , you can't compare the 2. Yes they weaker saw got the job done but barely . Also the yield off the larger saw with a wider blade is much better . I can easily clean off a cut with .020 sanding or less the small saw took at least .040 to clean the kerf.

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
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IT/s a yes and no answer .I can resaw with my old craftsman 12in bs up to 7in but it has a 1/2hp baldor industrial motor. I/ve got 6 bs now,each set up with different blades for different tasks.Makes cutting much easier, depending on the job at hand.

Not sure we're in the same thread, Bob!

I was referring to the General 15". Cast iron body.

I can afford only one saw. Swapping out blades frequently takes up a lot of production time so I do it when required, but generally leave my main blade in.

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Expectation is the source of all misery; comparison the thief of joy.
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