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instead of the 6" PVC? The price of PVC seems to be way up from the last time I did any plumbing. I am preping to install my CVMAX clearvue system and it calls for 8" down to 6" PVC. Im assuming that the metal duct work will collapse?

Has anyone tried?

Thanks

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Lance@LuthiersForum.com

6" snap lock from the local big box will probably collapse. Good quality 6" spiral from someone like onieda or a real HVAC supplier will do fine, but is expensive and most HVAC places have "backwards" connectors on the fittings.

I suggest looking into thinwall PVC sewer and drain pipe if you want lower cost plastic ducting.

-jd

Seems to me you would have a hard time collapsing 26 g snap lock. I've got it in my shop and it's VERY rigid. My cyclone is only 2hp however. I'm not sure how many HP your's is but even with no gates open I don't think it would be an issue.

Good Luck

Currently, most of my ducting is pvc, but I have had my entire system with galvanized and never had any problems with collapsing. The advantage of pvc: assembles easier, less air resistance, fewer air leaks, easier to modify. Disadvantage: cost, static build-up[debatable]. You could experiment with a 6' section of ducting. Cover the open end, and see what happens.

Alex

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Lance, I can recommend the metal ducting system from Grizzly. It is sturdy, well made (it fits together nicely), and is reasonably priced. It's designed specifically to work with their big dust collectors, so there's no way it would collapse on your Clearvu system.

Cheers,
Dave F.

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I took out the PVC as it is a static shock hazard. I am using the 6 inch stove pipe and sealed off the seams with aluminum tape. I also taped the joints. I have a few grounding screws in it and don't get zapped as I did with the PVC. Works just fine and in use for about 4 years . I have a good sized cyclone. Also these are high Velocity not pressure units so I don't think it will collapse .
I Hate the Grizzly gates and will replace them soon with true industrial gates. The plastic ones are not worth picking up they are just horrid.

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depends on the HP and CFM your pulling , Can you collapse 6" pipe , yes . The cost for spiral pipe is cheap , its the fittings that get expensive . As was mentioned , look into the thinwall sewer pipe , or bite the bullet and buy the good stuff . btw spiral pipe and snap lock style fitting wiill NOT work together . dont even try. you will end up

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I have the larger of the two impellers with my Clearview and the suction is impressive, particularly right off the machine. I have to choke down the gates for some tools or it wants to suck the work in! I can't say for sure whether it would collapse or not but I wouldn't be surprised. I have a flex line hooked up to my buffer and my buffer is on wheels. If I don't lock them, the suction shortens the flex line and pulls the buffer across the floor.

PVC is sure easy to work with. I've had no problems with static.

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2729, exactly. The pipe itself is dirt cheap, it's light and it's smooth. The fittings still cost a bit, but if you're clever you'll discover that 6" stove pipe fittings are cheaper and just about fit, so you can use those for things such as reducing down to 4" if you must though I wouldn't use them for anything important, like elbows and things. I had trouble finding a supplier that carried the thin wall fittings so I paid an absolute FORTUNE for my fittings and they weigh a ton. Ouch.

FWIW, Wynn supplied me with my 4" and 6" flexible tubing for final hookups and "roving" dust collection ports. They also supplied me with pipe clamps designed for spiral tubing. It clamps down far more securely than a stand pipe clamp. The Wynn guys are fantastic. I called them once and it must have been a slow day...we chit chatted for a while about his baby monitor and things like that

I've had my CV for several years, now. I was very glad to hear that the company ended up in good hands.

It is certainly possible to have static discharge problems at low flow rates. Try sanding drywall with a ROS using a shopvac as a collector... Scrubbing a dielectric creates that static charge and charged particles are removed by the vac. With plastic hose and an double-insulated sander, there is no return conduction path thru the plastic hose it charges up quickly and delivers a mighty zap.

If you use plastic ducting, it is important to assure that your tools are well grounded and the ductwork is well away from the working area. That way you might get the occasional shock off the ductwork when away from your workstations, but you will not get into the dangerous situation of being shocked while using the tool.

My local home despot only carries 30ga snap-lock -no way that is holding up to a decent dust collector.

-jd