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PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 9:39 am 
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When you look at the dimensions, the LN No. 5 and No. 5-1/2 are real close with the LN 5-1/2 being ¾” longer and using a 2-3/8” blade. The No. 5-1/2 is 1.5 pounds heavier. I am leaning towards the LN 5-1/2 with the 55º HAF. I am thinking that the extra heft will help and I can swap out the frog with my LN 4-1/2 which has the 50º HAF, when needed. My intent is to use the LN 5-1/2 for coarse work; roughing in lumber with a heavy camber on the blade. Pretty soon I am going to get my planes that I do have and take them out of the box! :D


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 2:59 pm 
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Well against my better judgement, I ordered up the LN No. 5-1/2 with 55HAF, a No. 7 and a No. 100....

I had better build something with these!


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 3:40 pm 
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i wish you the best of lucks, but if anything goes wrong those things go for almost "as new" prices on flee-bay.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 10:12 am 
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With all due respect to John and Todd, There are many seasoned/professional woodworkers and handplane aficionados who disagree.

John, the castings of the newer Stanleys are nothing close to the craftsmanship of the old Baileys. In fact, you're the first person I've heard make that claim. Stanley's new SW line may be close in that regard but certainly not better. We may be referring to different lines here.

Obviously, I'm not knocking the superior quality (fit and finish) of an LN. They have the advantage of working well right out of the box, as they should given their price, and the obvious advantage of being a bit heavier having more mass. Nevertheless, a properly tuned Bailey with a Hock blade most certainly works as well as an LN. The key is properly tuned as with any tool.

I own both Stanleys (#3, #4, #4 1/2, #5, #5 1/2, #6, #7, and various block planes) and LNs (#4, #60 1/2, and #103). I wouldn't give up my LNs for anything and plan to get a few more when I can afford it. They're the top of the line for my budget, but I can get the same performance with my Baileys for less.

I understand that some would rather not fiddle much with tuning up, which is necessary with vintage planes, but the time invested is not that much. Besides, the satisfaction of bringing an old Bailey back to life and having it perform on par with their more polished, younger cousins is priceless.

Different strokes for different folks...

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 10:37 am 
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Filippo Morelli wrote:
Randy what you may not be considering - when someone asks this kind of question they do not have significant hand plane experience. In fact their experience is likely little to none. To those people I don't suggest plane restoration. It's hard enough to set up a great plane out of the box, when one is new to these things.

I could make a wooden plane that works as well as anything you own... but what is the point? O wouldn't suggest it as a solution.,.

Filippo


I agree, Filippo. I'm not talking about restoration. Nothing more than making sure the sole is flat and honing the aftermarket blade (Hock, Lee Valley, IBC) is what I was referring to. Buying a Stanley with surface rust over the entire body, with a cracked tote and/or knob on ebay is an entirely different animal - those need restoration. I'm not talking about those.

Hey, I was just offering an alternative for the OP to consider. I was mistaken. Sorry.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 10:49 am 
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Tai Fu wrote:
My opinion is this:

If you got more than 3 planes (a block plane, smoothing, and jointer plane) then you got too many planes, unless those other planes you have are cheap/crap planes that you no longer use, in that case send it to Craiglist or Ebay. You really only need two planes, a block plane and a jointer plane for luthiery.



Well Tai,

I guess if you only build flat tops your kinda, sorta right.

However as a loofier, (thats a builder of stringed musical instrument ~ including guitars of all things wow7-eyes) I must disagree with your statement. pfft Sorry. However you are entitled to your minimalist approach to our craft.

Two planes is like trying to drive a car with only 4 wheels...think about it. laughing6-hehe


blessings
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 11:01 am 
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I've not seen too many cars with more or less than 4 wheels though, unless you're talking about motorcycles or trucks.

I agree if you do build other instruments like archtops then a curved plane would be needed...

I try to be minimalist because tools not only cost money, but the more tools and machines you have, the more time you must spend to maintain them, which takes away from building.

Imagine if you got like 10 planes, you gotta sharpen them all every now and then, and some planes like wooden planes doesn't make it so easy to remove the blade, so you gotta tape each of them out...

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 1:57 pm 
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I got my first L-N plane recently; a 100 model maker's. Frankly I was disappointed in their workmanship. I've read a lot of posts about how they were perfect out of the box, don't need fettling like an old Stanley, etc. The plane I got had fairly rough grinding marks on the sole that took a bunch of lapping to remove; it also was not perfectly flat, although it was close. It had a bit of extra metal in one corner of the mouth that needed to be filed square. It's working fine now, but I would hardly call their finish and quality control first rate. Veritas does nicer work, although they don't have a model 100.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 2:45 pm 
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I had the same experience as Howard Klepper did, but with a 102. I sent it back.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 2:54 pm 
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Tai Fu wrote:
I've not seen too many cars with more or less than 4 wheels though, unless you're talking about motorcycles or trucks.



Steering wheel dude, steering wheel! laughing6-hehe


Me gotts 11 Stanleys on the shelf, about 18 or so wooden brace shavers, curved bottoms and rabbiting planes....not to mention a few assorted draw knifes plus about 60 carving chisels. But then I've been at this for over 40 years.

About 2-3 hours once a year keeps them all shave yer face sharp.

Regarding the minimalist approach...well it worked great when me lived in the moan~astery. laughing6-hehe

blessings
duh Padma

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 3:02 pm 
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But I take it you have no power tools, not even a hand hell power drill?

I'd be happy with even one decent plane... the only plane they sell in Taiwan are those Chinese stuff and I am used to the Western style plane.

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Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 4:59 pm 
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Howard Klepper wrote:
Veritas does nicer work, although they don't have a model 100.
Hey Howard, not exactly the same, but they do have the squirrel-tail palm plane*: http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.a ... 51&p=57205 . if i got it right it´s a bevel down design without chipbreaker. ATM i´m pondering if i should order this one or the LN 100 (the LV is a lot cheaper)


cheers,
miguel.

* - edit: not actually veritas branded, but should be simillar enough.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 5:08 pm 
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Howard Klepper wrote:
I got my first L-N plane recently; a 100 model maker's. Frankly I was disappointed in their workmanship. I've read a lot of posts about how they were perfect out of the box, don't need fettling like an old Stanley, etc. The plane I got had fairly rough grinding marks on the sole that took a bunch of lapping to remove; it also was not perfectly flat, although it was close. It had a bit of extra metal in one corner of the mouth that needed to be filed square. It's working fine now, but I would hardly call their finish and quality control first rate. Veritas does nicer work, although they don't have a model 100.

I have had the opposite experience.
3 LN's all better than quoted tolerences, 1 Veritas (low angle block) with a warped (in all directions) sole, and the adjustable toe proud on one side and unevenly shy of the sole on the other, just a mess.
Returned it for a refund, bought a LA LN block instead which was fine (and feels better, in my hand at least)
Suppose just goes to show that anyone can have an off day!

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 5:15 pm 
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I lack Experience with planes as well as time to rework an older one, so I fugured the extra $$$ is worth it for the quality.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 5:35 pm 
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well, i agree with you, but buying and tuning an old plane is also a nice exercise onto itself, and will give you a better understanding of plane mechanics and functioning. also, there is a lot of info (books, forums, internet) to help you along the way. even if not for now, maybe you can restore a nice find later on, it´s a great satisfaction to work with something you helped bring back to life! i´m about to restore a lovely 112 scraper plane that i got for 70 bucks!

cheers,
miguel.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 5:48 pm 
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Tai Fu wrote:
But I take it you have no power tools, not even a hand hell power drill?

I'd be happy with even one decent plane... the only plane they sell in Taiwan are those Chinese stuff and I am used to the Western style plane.



Um sorry to disappoint you Tai, but me got a full blown shop for making all kinds of sawdust. Its all old stuff, just like me....but like, me it all works...well sorta, sometimes, when me feels like it. laughing6-hehe

But as me getting on me finding hand tools are easier on me head.

blessings
duh Padma

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 4:30 pm 
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I always like to read your eloquent prose, Todd. Just one question: what do you mean by "pushing a tool to its limits" in this context? is it planning "troublesome woods"? just curious.

cheers,
miguel.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 6:29 pm 
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Ok, thanks! I´ve only planed spruce and quarter-sawn spanish cedar and EIRW, and i already found those difficult.

cheers,
miguel.

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