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Mine is captured and hidden behind a strap button. If you don't want a strap button you can dress the opening with a Tele ferrule as per Mike Doolin.

Doolin did one where the bolt is captured so there is no problem with a loose neck when the strings are removed. I don't recall the details but the bolt is captured in the neck with a captured nut in the neck block. Anyway, apoligies to the OP for the partial thread highjack.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

Mine is like Mike Doolin's. I've had some email discussion with Mike about it. The top bolt is inside the neck block and doesn't have to be captured. It's main purpose is to keep the neck from flopping when the strings are removed. I captured it on the guitar in the picture but on the one I'm working on now it is just a 1/4" socket head bolt that isn't captured and is like a standard bolt on neck. This bolt allows me clearance for the truss rod adjustment from the soundhole. The head on the knockdown furnture bolt that is used for the captured bolt is too wide of a diameter to leave clearance unless I lower the bolt and 2 yaw set screws lower then I'd like to. I see no reason to capture the top bolt unless you want the extra work. This way you can bolt the neck on from the outside and then just slide the top bolt in and tighten it down. No a few turns on the outside and then a few on the inside and back and forth with it. Am I making sense ?

Makes perfect sense to me. My next adjustable neck will use stainless 1/4" socket head bolts top and bottom. I think it will be just as easy to capture the bolt with a short spring instead of using the wavy washers.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

I think I get it guys. I just got a mental picture of what you are talking about and how it works. Thanks!
I will be spending a few days with Mike Doolin in November at the Harp Guitar Gathering in Indianapolis and we need to schedule a Florida Guitar Makers meeting at Chris's shop (I can bring food and drink offerings). Can't wait..
Michael

I don't know about capturing a socket head bolt. I'd be concerned that there isn't enough bearing around the head of the bolt for wood. My concern would be it might wear away or open the hole or worse pull through. It might be alright but that's just my concern with it. I guess you could use a flat washer with it to increase the bearing surface.
Have you been waxing the M&T joint?
There might be a meeting soon Mike but not here, my shop is pretty small. But you're always welcome to stop by some time if your in the area. I'd be glad to show you what I know about the Doolin adjustable neck joint.

Yes, I am going to use 3 washers a very short spring and a flat locking nut to preload the assembly. It's been in my head for a while. I need to sketch it out and make sure it will all fit. I've got two standard bolt-ons I need to finish then I'll try this idea out on a Adi/Koa dred I've got ready to start.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

Be sure to let us know how it works out Steve. I'll probably be sticking with the knock down bolt for the capture bolt since I have 50 of them and my drilling jig/tooling is setup for drilling a 5/8" hole for the captured bolt.
How are you capturing the bolt in the heel? I drill a 5/8" hole into the tennon drop in the hardware and then glue in a maple 5/8" dowel with a 5/16" center hole. I do have to remove a tad of the bolt edge to 5/8" diameter.

Chris, since its still just an idea in my head I'm not sure of all the details but am reasonably confident it will work. I'll be sure to post photos of the process when I get it done.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"