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Hi Folks,

In addition to my Grizzly bandsaw, I have an old WW II era Craftsman 12" bandsaw (model # 103.24250) with a bad motor (1/2 HP, 1750 RPM model # 115.19680). I have the model numbers for both the bandsaw and motor, but google searches come up empty. Anybody have an idea on where I can either purchase a replacement motor, or suggestions on fixing (live in NJ outside Philly).

Thanks, I have been searching for awhile, and would love to get this bandsaw back up and running as it worked great prior to the motor issues (motor just doesn't work).

Glenn

Either McMaster-Carr or Grainger should have that replacement motor. It seems like a pretty common horsepower and rpm. The trick is to make sure the mounting layout is the same. Some effort to identify the NEMA configuration will be necessary. If you have any difficulty doing that, then try to find a Grainger location near you. McMaster-Carr is a catalog company with only a few warehouses (but they have EVERYTHING). Grainer has a whole bunch of locations and generally stocks their most common items. So you could maybe take your motor with you to visually compare it before you buy one.

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I read Emerson on the can. A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds...true...but a consistent reading of Emerson has its uses nevertheless.

StuMusic

Glenn-
Does your bandsaw look like this: ?

If it does, any motor shop, agricultural supply, or good hardware store will be able to supply a motor. (Just make sure the shaft size matches the pulley, and use a proper puller to remove the pulley- don't bend the pulley flange.)

Usually, it's only the 'flange mount' motors that are tricky to match.

Cheers
John

Hi John,

That is it! The only difference is my saw has the stand and the motor is mounted below with the pulley going north -south.

I did track down a local place that repairs and sells - they said to drop motor off, and they would give me an estimate.

Thanks!

Glenn

That was going to be my next question Todd. If I replace the motor, can I go with a more powerful motor. Based on above, that would be yes?

Thanks!

Glenn

Glenn - If it's a standard 14" cast iron frame sort of saw, I'd say go to 2 HP, with the specs mentioned above for speed and type. The power really does help.

Of course, many of us that go down this road end up with 18" saws anyway. Todd did, but I've still got my hot rod Delta!

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Jim Kirby
kirby@udel.edu

The saw is a 12" saw. I have a more powerful Bandsaw for other things, but want this set up for finer cutting. I am thinking of putting in a 1 HP.

Thanks!

Glenn

I usually get AC motors on ebay, though it takes some searching to get what I want. 3 phase motors are most common; single phase takes more looking. For a 110-120V single phase motor, look for the round capacitor covers in the pics ("capacitor start" / "capacitor run")--important for startup. Selling prices are in the $30-$60 range, and HP doesn't seem to matter. Avoid pump or fan motors. Lots of good brands-- Baldor, Reliance, Leeson, Marathon, Magnetek, GE. Dayton is import but ok.

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David Malicky

Was NEMA even around during WWII? Even if it wasn't, I'm sure the mount from a NEMA 56 frame could me modified to fit your bandsaw.

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Matt Jacobs

"Don't tase me bro"

Glenn, that is a nice find! I would love finding one like that for fine work. Oh, keep you fingers away from the belt... No way UL would put their stamp on that one!

Most of those older tools I've seen use a 'hinged' motor mount which can adapt to a off-size belt quite easily. If the motor mount in Glenn's saw is similar to the one in the picture (ie different location-same idea), getting a belt to fit shouldn't be a problem.
The link belt is a good idea, though - they do seem to reduce vibration ('thrumming') quite a bit. I have them on my belt-driven tools. Expensive, but they seem to last very well, and don't 'take a set' or harden up over time.
The newer-style link belt (red synthetic) seems to work better than the rubber-type with the metal 'rivets' that was around 30 years ago.
Cheers
John

Here are some pictures of the saw:

That tool was made when they actually used metal to make them. Not sure where I saw it, but I recently saw a post of a Craftsman table saw that had that same type of pole stand. Must be from the same era.

Hi Guys,

A follow-up question. I brought the motor to the best local place for repair (if indeed it can be repaired). If the motor is shot, and I need to replace it, how do I wire an on/off switch? these old bandsaws/motors have the on/off right on the motor. My understanding is if I buy a replacement motor, i get the motor and that is it. I will have to do something about the on/off (and power cord).

Thx!

Glenn

Yo Glen

Go stick yer nose around the local junk, or second hand stores. It don't take rocket science to figure out how to attach a motor.

I have bought complete running table saws for much less than $100 just for the motors, I then flog the remained of the saw (usually for what me paid for it) at the spring garage sale. Sometimes I just haul them to the dump or even give them away. Got two right now me just gonna give away. It just ain't worth re wiring/rebuilding a motor and its way much cheaper to
buy a used one with a table or band saw attached to it than to buy a new one.


Wireing... 110 volts.

go buy a good extension cord, a simple on of light switch, a metal box and one mars connector
also ask for the 2 metal clams that attach to the metal bock and clam down on the cord going in and out of the box.

cut the female end off and attach the three wires to the motor, one is ground, one is white and the other is black or maybe red. There will be a wiring diagram on the motor or on the inside of the metal cover plate for the motor. It will show you were the ground and the white and black (or red) goes.

cut the "extension cord" where you want the switch...ground both ends to the metal box, join the two white ends together with the mars connector. The two remaining black go to the switch. (they may be red in some extension cords) Real simple.


blessings
be
Padma

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Audiences and dispensations on Thursdays ~ by appointment only.


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Glenn Call me , I know where we can get you the motor and you can hook up with a schematic here.

_________________
John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

Thanks John!

I will call you when I get back from Paris - most appreciated!!

Glenn

FWIW, Harbour Freight 90 bucks. Looks like a direct replacement.
Cheers,
Tom

_________________
I spent most of my money on women, guitars and whiskey, the rest I wasted.

Thanks Tom,

If my motor needs to be replaced (which reminds me I need to call and find out the status on the motor), the biggest issue for me is the fact that the old motors had the on/off switch on the motor. The cost of the replacement, while definately a factor, is secondary as I am not adept at modifying/creating an on/off switch - and why I am most appreciateive of John's offer to call him when i return home.

Glenn

FWIW, I am batting 50% on Harbor Freight motors. I used a 1/2 hp on a buffer I built which is still going strong after 1 1/2 years. It was on sale for around $70, so I thought I'd take a chance, not sure how it would hold up on a more frequently used tool..........Then, after I built a 6 x 89 edge sander, I saw that the price for a 1 1/2 hp Harbor Freight motor was around $150 on my door step, so again I bought it. Unfortunately, I haven't had as good service. This motor quit just a day or two past warranty. I have been able to keep it running after replacing the start capacitor the first time it quit. And just recently replaced the run capacitor when it lost rpm and power. I personally will not buy another Harbor Freight motor again, but that's just me.

Chuck

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Update. I got back from my long business trip to find my motor was repaired. Needed to be cleaned, and the bearings were replaced.

I would like to thank everyone for their inputs and suggestions! For now, I will continue to use this motor as I will use this ban saw for fine cuts ( and my Grizzly for bigger stuff).

Glenn

Glenn, since you're wiring in a new on/off switch, etc., take the time to build a simple guard or cover for the belt, too. You can do it with scraps of plywood, and it shouldn't be hard to figure out a way to mount it. It'll keep you and your shop dog's tail a lot safer.

Excellent idea.



It's pretty common for open motors like that to build up dust and gunk in the start switch, which will keep them from starting up. ("needed cleaning"...)
I had a similar problem with an old motor. Once I cleaned out the gunk, the bearings had enough slop that the armature(?) was touching the field windings (?stator?), so it needed new bearings as well.
You're lucky to have a motor shop nearby - another disappearing thing with the 'throwaway society' - only bigger industrial motors are 'worth fixin' for many people...

When you're building your belt cover, you could consider enclosing the motor as well. If you have air in the shop it's a good idea to blow the dust out of the motor from time to time. Also, avoid over-oiling if the motor has sleeve bearings- the extra oil attracts sawdust.

Cheers
John