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PostPosted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 9:10 am 
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First name: Aaron
Last Name: Craig
City: Kansas City
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Received the long anticipated shipment from LMI yesterday (I should say that the long anticipation wasn't due to any delay by LMI, but in my wait to gather the funds to click the checkout button). I can't wait to get started, but I don't want to screw anything up either. I have set up shop in the basement and have had a dehumidifier running constantly for the last few weeks to control the horrid amount of humidity we've been having. The shop (that's stretching the definition of the word) is now around 45-50% RH depending on which hygrometer I'm looking at (I don't think either is terribly accurate). How long should I wait before starting to build? I would imagine the top, back, and sides would be the pieces that will require the most acclimation time. Will two weeks be sufficient for those items to acclimate, and can I begin working on the neck sooner (if so, how soon would you recommend)? I still have plenty of things to work on before I will dive in (e.g., trace plans, make a mold, make a few more go-bars, build some shelving and storage in the shop, attempt to clean up the nasty shellac spill I made in the middle of the drive, etc.), but it would be nice to have a rough estimate of when its safe to begin building if I feel the urge. Thanks.

Aaron Craig

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 9:22 am 
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I would wait a couple weeks or more on the top and back, you can bend the sides anytime .. you are going to be subjecting them to steam and 300 degrees of heat anyway ... make your form and bender .... or rosette ...

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 9:34 am 
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Thanks Tony. That's kinda what I was thinking. This site has been great so far. So much information and so many great people with experience that are willing to help newbies.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 9:40 am 
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Someone posted this a while ago (I cant remember who but whoever you are thanks).
This is more for working humidity not acclimatization but should apply to both I would think.

Quote:
Can do:
make heel and tail blocks.
Thin and bend the sides.
profile sides.
Glue sides to heel and tail blocks
Glue in linings.
Thin, bookmatch and glue top and back
Scarf and glue up neck.
If the top and back are already glued on, you can cut binding channels and glue in binding and purfling.

Can't do:
Glue braces to top or back.
Attach top or back to sides.
Glue in tail wedge.
Attach fretboard to neck. Many ebonies have much larger expansion coefficients and you will feel a ridge when things dry out.
Attach head plate (actually you might be able to do this when the humidity is high but it depends on the difference in expansion between the plate and the neck wood.
Install the frets. If you do this when it is humid, you will get awful fret ends sticking out when it is dry.
Any finishing work.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 9:46 am 
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That is very helpful. Looks like I have plenty to keep me busy for the next few weeks. If I get to the point where I am ready to brace and close the box before November, I'll be ecstatic. :)

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 2:04 pm 
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Aaron: Not sure if you are building a kit or a scratch build,but assume you have some sort of reference. First job is to understand the process and the different steps required. Before you start a step go over it very clearly in your mind and ask yourself what can happen when I do this or that. Plan ahead a couple of steps,consider every cut or joint you make so as not to dig a hole that's hard to climb out of. Not trying to scare you but don't let enthusiasm get you in trouble. Proceed slowly with planned steps. Good luck.
Tom

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 3:01 pm 
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You may find this useful

All my successes and my failures

http://johnc-guitarbuild.blogspot.com/

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 3:11 pm 
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Location: 8.33±0.35 kpc from Galactic center, 20 light-years above the equatorial in the Sol System
First name: duh
Last Name: Padma
City: Professional Sawdust Maker
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Simple...other than jointing the top and back, end blocks and possibly the neck...NO GLUING any parts together
and NO Fretting.

Anything else is a go.

You ask, "when can I start" well dude...you started long ago in your heart...your body is just starting to catch up.


blessings and may the build go with great ease.

be
duh Padma

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 3:23 pm 
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westca wrote:
Aaron: Not sure if you are building a kit or a scratch build,but assume you have some sort of reference. First job is to understand the process and the different steps required. Before you start a step go over it very clearly in your mind and ask yourself what can happen when I do this or that. Plan ahead a couple of steps,consider every cut or joint you make so as not to dig a hole that's hard to climb out of. Not trying to scare you but don't let enthusiasm get you in trouble. Proceed slowly with planned steps. Good luck.
Tom


Tom, great advice. I may make that my mantra for this build. I am building from scratch (well, I had LMI join the back and sand the sides and back to thickness). Used LMI's kit wizard. I fully intend to measure three times and cut once. At the same time, I'm of the mindset that this guitar is just a stepping stone to the next; I don't wish to waste time waiting for wood to reach peak equilibrium before I start working with it, if doing so won't harm the finished product.

I have read Cumpiano's book and will be loosely following some of his techniques, as well as incorporating the ideas and techniques of builders on this forum and elsewhere (e.g., I will be using a mold, radius dishes, a go-bar deck, a butt-joint bolt-on neck, etc.). The build will be based around Collins' J-45 plan. We shall see how it all works out. I'm sure there will be more than one "oh crap" moment, but with the continued support of the fine folks here and a bit of forethought I hope to keep them to a minimum.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 3:29 pm 
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First name: Aaron
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John, that looks like a great site. Always on the lookout for great build threads.

The Padma, nice to have finally interacted with you. I have read many of your posts with great interest. Thank you for your kind words.

Aaron

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 3:41 pm 
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Yep, Tom's advice pretty much says it. That's what I've been doing, and no catastrophic errors just yet :)

Most likely you can start immediately and by the time you get a few non-humidity-critical steps done, everything should be pretty well acclimated.

My first things were shaping the head and tail blocks, making a practice headstock inlay in a 1x4 scrap, cutting the neck scarf joint (one of the scariest parts I have yet to do, be sure you do a few practice cuts on scraps first, and maybe I should have waited longer for things to acclimate, but no signs of trouble from it), planing the sides to thickness, joining top and back and planing those to thickness (as long as they're equal moisture, plate joints can expand and contract together harmlessly).

I'm going mostly by Cumpiano/Natelson method too, but with the bolt-on headblock, and Gibson Hummingbird shape, scale length, and bracing layout. I love the dishless, mouldless construction style. I don't think I'm even going to need the guitar shaped workboard. Just got the X brace glued on last night, and as soon as I stick on the X intersection cap, it's time for free plate voicing :D
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