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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 2:29 pm 
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I would like to put a coat of shellac on a set of wood so I can shoot some photos of it for a prospective client.

I've tried the naptha route and it just evaporates too quick to get multiple photos.

So.... if I coat the wood with shellac will it make a mess of things when I run it through my thickness sander later?

Thanks

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 2:55 pm 
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I'm guessing it would gum up the sander pretty bad, but I haven't done it. Maybe if you use alot of alcohol, and a little shellac??? For pictures I wet stuff with mineral spirits. It won't dry as quickly. Someone smarter than me may have a reason not to use mineral spirits though.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 3:07 pm 
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It doesn't bother mine....an old woodmaster drum sander with 80 grit on it.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 3:11 pm 
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Works fine for me, with well-cured shellac, if the grit on the sander isn't too fine.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 3:19 pm 
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Pat - is 120 too fine?

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 3:25 pm 
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Paul, I think 120 is to fine for any reason on a thichness sander. I don't ever put anything finer than 80 grit on mine.

Water will work fine too to show wood grain and features. Mist it with water, take your pictures, let it dry then sand away.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 3:42 pm 
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Filippo Morelli wrote:
Paul,
Not a problem. But you should not have a problem shooting photos with Naptha. Put the stuff in a plastic squeeze bottle (e.g. like the ones from Woodcraft with the red closure cap) and squirt on there. You'll have all the time in the world ...

Filippo


Wouldn't getting the wood that wet introduce the possibility of warping?

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 4:13 pm 
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Paul Burner wrote:
Filippo Morelli wrote:
Paul,
Not a problem. But you should not have a problem shooting photos with Naptha. Put the stuff in a plastic squeeze bottle (e.g. like the ones from Woodcraft with the red closure cap) and squirt on there. You'll have all the time in the world ...

Filippo


Wouldn't getting the wood that wet introduce the possibility of warping?


Shellac sands just fine by hand, I would think that a drum sander won't be much different. Just a week ago, I got out some quilted maple and misted it with DI water to show a visitor the nice figure. It did not warp - and maple is as unstable as anything when highly figured, I believe. Now, maybe I got lucky, but I really don't think it will be a problem.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 7:24 pm 
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I don't think shellac would be a problem when sanding.The glue joint would be more of a concern than the shellac.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 10:23 pm 
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Paul,

I'm with Rod on grit, though once in a great while I use 120, but I wouldn't use it with shellac.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 6:28 am 
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Naphtha evaporates very quickly, I do it all the time either to shoot pics and see how the piece would look under finish, or simply clean. Shellac will gum up your sandpaper, the drum in the sander spins fast, generates heat and will melt the shellac. Best and fastest way to remove any finish is with a sharp scraper IMHO.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 8:15 am 
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Laurent Brondel wrote:
Best and fastest way to remove any finish is with a sharp scraper IMHO.


duh

Sometimes the simplest solutions escape me.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 3:51 pm 
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A light coat of isopropyl alcohol will remove shellac very simply. I used 4-0 steel wool to persuade the worst spots on a nasty shellac finish I recently removed from a D-28. Most of it came off very easily with a rag.

Mineral spirits will work to highlight grain, and it dries off only after a few minutes.


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