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What plane would you recommend as a first for general luthier work? I realize you could use several but which would you buy first. What kind and what brand.

I really don' tknow what I'm doing but have considered the Veritas Low Angle Block Plane:



Thanks for your help and recommendations. I've never used a plane before so I will be learning.

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Formerly known as Adaboy.......

A block plane, especially a low-angle is an excellent first choice. The one you show is a very good example of a fine tool. Of course, you should ask first what exactly are your needs. Possibly you could get by without one. I don't spend money on tools until I am convinced there is no better way to do something. But I find my block plane is useful in many fitting, trimming, flattening and other steps. Bogdanovich, who was a highly trained fine woodworker before building classical guitars, even uses a block plane to prepare the joint for joining tops and backs. Highly recommended.

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"Building guitars looks hard, but it's actually much harder than it looks." Tom Buck

There is really not a "1 size fits all" hand plane.

The Veritas is a great low angle block plane, and very useful for what it is made for doing.

The "General Use" part throws me off... because there are so many different things to be done with planes.
I guess I would ask what you plan to do with it?

For thinning out plates -- tops, backs, sides... you want a bigger bench plane -- like #4 and larger size.
For jointing plates -- tops and backs..... once again, reach for a bigger plane -- like #5 and up.
For truing up the joints used for scarf joint necks -- the block plane is King.
and for levelling rims before sanding, go for the block plane again.
For shaping rough brace stock before gluing, I reach for the block plane here too.
For brace voicing work -- buy a 1" chisel and sandpaper.... but you could also use one of those little bitty finger planes.

Now, if you were going to start with a Kit with a pre-jointed and thickness sanded top and back..... Start with the Low Angle Block Plane... as you won't need the larger planes....

Good luck

John

Well, I'll give my two cents - more experienced hands here will have more thorough (and better) advice.
I'm not familiar with the plane you're considering, and I've been using several Stanley planes (a block plane) and a longer plane (12") which I use for joining tops and backs.
I purchased some blades from Hock which are much harder steel than what comes with the Stanley, and I think they're worth it.

There are more expensive and better planes out there, but these work fine for me.

What I do know is this - as important as the plane itself, the preparation of the plane (lapping the bottom), setting the frog, etc., and sharpening the blades properly, is crucial - without it, the plane won't work, and worse, you'll risk destroying your tops and backs, with chipout, etc.)

So, I'd suggest spending some good quality time, researching those topics - good info out there, as well as on the archives here (a response to one of my posts from the generour souls here - provided some great advice on sharpening). I've recently learned how much of a joy a nicely set up, very sharp plane is to use, thanks to Todd and others!

I think you need two planes - I wouldn't like to try and plane tops or backs prior to joining them - it's tough enough as it is. A block plane will make it just about impossible, I think. I'd go for a long one (jointing plane?) as well. See how easy it is for me to spend other people's money? -

Finally, a plane that I wish I had but don't, is one of those sweet little finger planes, for planing braces to voice tops.

Have fun!

Darryl, I don't own the Veritas block plane but I wish I did. My understanding is that it is a superb tool.

Crokey is right about doing your homework to find out about planes and luthiery. I would highly recommend checking out Brian Burn's book on sharpening. His system is very expensive to set up (way well worth it) but the book is only 6 bucks or so. It is a wealth of information written by someone who has spent an inordinate amount of time researching chisels and hand planes. LMI or the Japan Woodworker have it. Good Luck!!

My first serious plane was the veritas low angle block .. although after reading a short Burns article about the benfits of a higher angle on figured woods (I was using a lot of curly and quilt at the time), I promptly resharpened the blade at 45 degrees (so the plane now works at 57). It may not be for everyone, but it works for me. I then added the low angle smoother, and low angle jack, and you guessed it, set them up at 57 degrees.

My students and I get a lot of use out of those 3 ....

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

I am certainly no expert, and quite the beginner. But I can offer up what I use.

Following are what I think I "need":

- I really like the LN Low angle block plane, and would make that my first plane purchase.
- Old record #5 I got off Ebay for very cheap, set-up for extremely fine shavings to use with a shooting board. I have joined a number of tops and backs and have not had any issues using this plane (i do have it VERY sharp).
- I have an ibex finger plane that i find extremely useful for shaping braces
- I have an old Stanley #4 i bought at a previous OLF swap meet - it was real cheap, and already flattened, set-up etc. I replaced the blade/breaker with Hock. I use this to plane tops, backs, sides to rough thickness (then use my Performax 10-20 to finish, and clean up)

Others I have that probably don't "need" but use alot anyway:
- Early 1900's Stanley #5 i bought off ebay perfectly set-up for ~ 40 bucks
- I also picked up an LN model makers plane to also shape braces with.

Glenn

The most used block plane I own is the bronze Lie Nielsen 102:

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John Mayes
http://www.mayesluthier.com

That LN 102 is the one I use the most too. Second is a LN 4 1/2 smoooother.

Last week I finally got around to tuning up a Stanley # 7 I picked up at a flea market in Shreveport last summer. It's engraved "Fair Park H. S.", so I'm guessing it came from a high school shop class, back when they used to have those. I'd like to give my compliments to the shop teacher because that plane required very little tuning. In fact the blade was almost sharp enough to use!!! I just lapped the sole a little, sharpened the blade a little; and then put it to work jointing an EIR back set. I think it took about 4 passes with that 22 inch monster and I was done.

That's a little off topic I guess. A #7 is a far cry from an all-arounder, but it sure is nice.
Walter

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Walter Lay
"It's taken me so long, but now that I know
I can see. All that I do or say, is all I ever will be"
- Billy Joe Shaver

I like the 102 type planes a lot, and end up using them more than 60 1/2 types. I also like the tiny model makers 100 size planes, and use those probably more than anything. Any of the veritas or lie nielsen block planes will be a great buy, i prefer the smaller ones, but most people seem to gravitate towards the larger block planes.

Another cheap and fun way to get started on a plane collection is to buy some blades and make some woodies, this video shows just about everything you need to know http://www.hocktools.com/KF175.htm They are easy and quick to make, and if well made work just as well as a metal plane. After making a few planes you will also understand what makes a plane tick and how to tune them up so they really sing.

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Jordan Aceto
Ithaca, NY

Well, I just went through this also. I posted over in the classifieds about this. I wanted a good plane (for top and back joining), but did not want to sink $150-and up just yet. I found out that the "vintage" Stanelys are still in demand. Not expensive, easy to find. I posted in the classifieds at SawMillCreek (WTB) and several reputable people came forward with items to sell. One fellow offered me a Stanley #5 and two other Stanleys (all vintage, 1940's) shipped to my door for $80. They are in amazing shape! Very happy with them. I cannot tell you why, but most folks in the know will warn you to stay away from the new Stanleys. If you want new, the L-Ns are very nice, but pricey (and there is one I do want one day).

Mike

I have the Veritas low angle plane and am very pleased with it. You can get blades ground to different angles from Lee Valley if you want or need a higher cutting angle. I also own some Lie Nielsen tools, and, while they're certainly prettier than Veritas stuff, I don't think they work better as tools. I've also noticed that Lie Nielsen have recently incorporated some innovations from Veritas tools into their line of planes. With either brand, you won't need to spend much time tuning the plane, but you almost certainly will with Stanley planes of any vintage, (unless someone else already has done the tuning for you.) Just my $.02.

Joe

Thanks everyone for the recommendations. I am more interested in a block plane and like the looks of the 102 from LN.

Let me get your thoughts on this. I have an old Stanley No. 220 plane that was given to me by my wife's grandfather. Nothing wrong with it but I've not had good luck with fine adjustments on it. From what I've read, they are typically used as parts for other old Stanley planes. Is it worth messing with?

He gave me another old plane but I can't read the brand (almost worn off the wooden handle). Looks like it ends in "....son" and may start with a P or F. It's a bench style plane and is more adjustable than the Stanley.

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Formerly known as Adaboy.......

It does come down to personal preference when you're talking Veritas or Lie Nielsen. Both made to the highest standards. I have a few of each including both low angle block planes. You can read any number of reviews where one or the other is preferred in various sizes.

I use a 5 1/4" Veritas for flattening boards followed by a #4 Lie Nielsen. Both wonderful planes. I like the looks and style of the Lie Nielsen better, but the tote on the Veritas fits my large hand better than the Lie Nielsen, at least with my technique.