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Hi guys before I go headlong and cause myself a big headache I've been lent the stewmac precision router base with the edge guide to route out my bindings any tips on how to to this right? My bindings are 2mm x 9mm or 0.080" x 0.035" I was advised to start at the full width and do the depth in stages with the dremel running at top speed and tidy up by hand later or with a sloane purfling cutter.

Thanks Guys

John

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Formerly JJH

I learn more from my mistakes than my successes

The problems with this are twofold, 1st the dremel does not have enough power and 2 the flat bottom on the base will cause the binding trough to be quite uneven as it will follow the top and back angles and not the sides. I used this set up on one build by adding a angled piece to the bottom of the base but still was not very happy with the results. Make sure all screws on the base are tight and the collet is really tight, I had to add another purfling strip to my binding because things came loose and the cut became too deep. Actually the extra purfling looks real good but I would rather do something like this on purpose not by mistake.

I would investigate the web for a simple plan for a binding cutter using a laminate trimmer, there are plenty out there.

Fred Tellier

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Fred Tellier
http://www.fetellierguitars.com
Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/pages/FE-Tellier-Guitars/163451547003866

I only use this set up for the top purflings - not for bindings. The dremel just doesn't have enough power to do a good job on the bindings. This works OK for purfling for the top, but you need a different set up for the back. If you are going to route bindings by hand, you would be better off with a laminate trimmer

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John Ressler

I have this same set up and was doing some practice cuts the other day on scrap.
As Fred said the base definately needs an angle put under it to compensate for plate curvature. And I think the small roller that provides cut width control needs to be two rollers one above the other.... or make a simple timber addtioin to ensure the tool stays vertical with the rims. As to the power...didnt test on RW the new dremel is 2x more powerful than some of the older ones but definitely needs to be at full speed

I did my first bindings and purflings with this.
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Speci ... Guide.html
It can be done as the reso in my avatar was done with this setup.
But your best bet is to build a binding machine. And yes you have to do the binding in steps as far as the depth. You hace to be Real Careful when climb routing as the router wants to take off on you. And what the others said.

I would like to add to this statement:
While an angle plate (wood or UHMW) will improve the square-ness of the channel when using any base plate and hand held routing system, the truth is that a domed top or back does not have constant implied angle. It is ever changing flatter at the wider portions of the body and steeper in the narrow parts of the body. And the back is a differnt angle than the top. A single 2 degree wedge will be a good average compromise angle for the top and 4 degress for the back depending on the radius used to generate each dome but neither is perfect everywhere.

Yes, when using a Dremel you will need to cut the channel in ever increasing in width passes or ever increasing depths. The Dermal just does not have the HP needed to cut in one or two passes.

If you are using a new 1/8” of ¼” bit there should be only some very light clean up after you finish with the Dremel. If I was going to use a Slone purfling cutter I would use it to scribe the full width of the cut on the top prior to routing. And scribe near full thickness of the top. This will eliminate any tear out that may occur as well as eliminate fuss y edges on the spruce. I would do all clean up with a sharp chisel as you will be much more accurate.

Also because the guide bearing guide is smaller diameter than the bit, and because this bearing guide will not occupy the same center axis as the bit you must keep the common axis of the guide and bit perpendicular at all times to the cut. If you tilt the base out of perpendicularity to a given point in the cut you will over cut the width considerably. This is very important. Especially where you change from on curve to an other like the waist valley, and upper bout thee possible amount of over cut this can cause is roughly the difference in ½ the diameter of the bit – ½ the diameter of guide bearing depending on how out of perpendicular you allow the rig to get.

I highly recommend that you cut a body shape out of some scrap wood (3/4 thick min), smooth up the edge of the shape on a sanding drum of some sort so that it is smooth and square. Then test you procedure on it first and you will see how getting out of perpendicular will affect the width of the cut and where you need to pay very close attention to your perpendicularity.

G'day John,
I remove the base plate of my stewmac router , and attach it to this jig I made. I do have a lam trimmer , but find it too top heavy for this set-up. I prefer this hand held device as I feel more in control and can see the work in progress .
Despite what people say , ( and I've heard it many times ) My Dremmel seems to have enough power for the job when used slowly with a couple of passes. ( Patience ! ). I've also had no problems with Dremmel bearings 'run out' , as others have reported , but perhaps I got a good one ! .

My results have yielded clean binding/purfling ledges of consistent depth and height around the body of the guitar . I use a spiral cut bit for the purfling channel.

As you can see , this set-up has micro adjustment for depth
and height. It has a small donut angled at it's front for the jig to register on. I've had zero issues with it , and never had any gaps in the binding/purfling

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CRAIG LAWRENCE of AUSTRALIA
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Very nicely made!

Nice I've just looked through my odds box and found 2 old ball bearings and have turned up a spacer so they are 1 1/2" apart and was gonna make my own equivalent of the stewmac edge guide was thinking of making a handle too your all 2 steps ahead here!

_________________
Formerly JJH

I learn more from my mistakes than my successes

oops gonna have to use a shim of 0.030" modellers ply as a top purfling had a little dig in

_________________
Formerly JJH

I learn more from my mistakes than my successes

Who is this Guy??

There was a spammer but seems adm. has taken care of that. Lance you can delete these last two post if you wish.

Many years ago, I made a custom base shoe to attach to my dremel's base to help me deal with the problem of the tool riding over the guitar's top and back contours. I did it just because at the time I had no access to precision base plans or anything of that kind, so I had to invent something. Not nearly as elegant as the jig pictured above. And I will agree that the dremel required slow work and multiple passes around the ledges, but I made it work just fine. More recently, I routed the ledges for my archtop with the same tool. I am dead certain a laminate trimmer and custom made precision base would work much better than my cobbled-up jig, but the point is that I made it work for me. Another thing: I've only used it on two guitars. If I were going to build many guitars, or if I were going to build them for customers, I would take the time to acquire or build the tools and jigs that are recommended in the earlier posts. But it's amazing what you can accomplish with simpler tools if you don't get in a hurry. I only post this to encourage you--NOT to suggest that the dremel is the best way to go.

Patrick

Build or buy a Williams Binder. It's idiot proof (in my case that is a tall order.)

Mike

Maybe a Williams style isn't for him. There are advantages and disadvantages to evey type of binder. You know the Williams takes up alot of room compaired to the Doolin or LMI style. You can easily make the latter two into a small pin router too by locking in the heigth and putting a pin in the work top. Each to his own needs.

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