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Hi there guys. I've received my first electric commission this week, and it's got me thinking about adding binding to an electric guitar.
"Easy!" you might say, "they're planks" The one I'm making will have a forearm contour though - can anyone think of a way to bind round that?! I have a hard enough time getting tight joints on a heavily arched back!

Below you can see a bound Anderson (well, a pile of them), all with bound contours, though I've got a feeling it's a faux, painted on binding.

How about this: a binding machine like the one Chris P. just built but with the following characteristics:

Smallest router diameter you can find

Longest binding bit shaft you can find (possibly use a 1/2" straight bit with a bearing follower like on Chris's machine

A Shoe or Doughnut that's tall enough so that when you're at the deepest point of the forearm relief no other parts of the fixture (or jig or whatever the hell it is) is hitting the top of the body

I think that would do it.

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I suppose I should have been more clear - it's not the route I'm worried about! Its bending (or cutting) the binding to fit in there.

Those arent bound at all .... thats the curly maple top left natural, ala PRS, while the top has been tinted blue. The top has small blind cut slits inside the armrest curve area that allows them to bend it into shape even though its about 1/4 inch thick.

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

Again, I understand that

Just wondering if there is a way to do it with wood though?

depends on the top contour.

if the contour is a sharp corner, then use two pieces of binding and bevel the joint (all be it a LONG bevel)

if the contour is more gradual then binding SHOULD be able to be bent in both axes. you'll need a LOT of STRONG tape to hold it as the glue dries, but I'd certainly go for it.....

practice on the offcut from the body blank.

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I think you will have an issue at the bottom of the armrest curve .... the wood binding will be leaning outwards by the time you get it there, and you wont be able to pull it in with tape without causing a gap on the bottom edge, if at all. Plastic .. OK, but you will need to heat it a bit.

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

I'm with Tony. I don't see being able to do it with wood (unless it's faux). Doesn't mean you shouldn't fire up the iron and try though!

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Mike

"The Dude abides. I don't know about you but I take comfort in that. It's good knowin' he's out there. The Dude. Takin' 'er easy for all us sinners. Shoosh." The Stranger

Making the binding square first might help... What I mean is: Thin(.060-.120) binding that is tall tends to only bend front to back (or side to side). It does not bend well up and down against the height. But on the other hand, if you started out with a square wood binding it is capable of bending up and down as well as side to side. You will more likely have better results starting with that shape. Once glued in place, you could use a flush trim bit to remove the excess width of the binding that overhangs the original route. just a thought.

Joe

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Joe

I see where you are going with that Joe .. but you still will be limited to relatively thin binding .. much more than .100 wont bend all that well on the curve.

besides - unless its really thin, like .040, its not going around the horns anyway. Thats why its done the way it is unless its plastic.

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"