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I would like to remove the bridge on my first build and reposition it,
but I would like to know the steps for doing this from those more experienced than myself. Unfortunately, the holes were drilled in the spruce top and hard maple bridge plate, so i know that presents a new set of problems. Can someone please explain the procedure. Thanks

Ron M.

Ron,

I am by no means a repair expert, but I saw a recent article in Guitarmaker
in which the author described solving this problem by moving the saddle slot
instead of the entire bridge.

First he used a matching hardwood strip to fill in the existing saddle slot,
and scraped it flush. He then rerouted a new saddle slot in the correct location.

This approach assumes your margin of error is within the existing area of your
bridge.

Good luck,

Eric

Thanks for your reply Eric. Unfortunately the margin of era is outside of that area. It needs to be moved over more towards the bass side. I'm sure what you suggested could possibly be useful in the future. Thanks just the same.

Ron M.

Ron,
Is this a steel-string? How much does the bridge need to be moved?

Pat

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

To remove a bridge , you can do it one of 2 ways. Chisel it of by tapping along the bridge and work it off , or my prefered method , useing heat , heat the bridge and get the glue to release. Once the glue starts to soften , you can work a thin flexible ( artists pallet knife ) into the joint. Once the bridge is off you can repair the holes and plate , do your finish touch up and set the bridge at the new location.
take your time and work with the grain if at all possible. Once you lift a grain you can gouge the top .
john hall

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

Ron--

It sounds like the bridge needs to go east-west rather than north-south. Here is a link to re-glueing a bridge on Frank Ford's site:

http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Luthier/Technique/Guitar/Bridges/ReglueBr/regluebr1.html

It will have the basics on removal and replacement. You will need to cut plugs for the existing holes in the top and the bridge plate. Stew-Mac had a dandy, but spendy tool for this, but you can shape them by hand also -- just more time-consuming. Post a pic if you can and maybe more folks will chime in with some different ideas.

Edit:
Hey -- John already has chimed in!

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Jim Howell
Charlotte, NC

I've had to do that job before. Go to the hardware store and get some 1/4" tapered hardwood plugs. The plugs I purchased had a 5 degree taper. Used my end pin reamer to enlargen the holes. Worked out real nice as I was able to set the bottoms of the plugs even with the bridge plate and rout the tops off flush with the sound board.

Steve

Thanks for the replys

.
the guitar is a steel string and the bridge needs to me moved towards the bass side



Does it matter what kind of wood the plugs are made from? Can I use wood dowels, I know I can find them?






I glued the bridge with fish glue, will heat be appropriate? I think that I may have to use water.

I can't post a photo because earthlink messed up my dsl service i'm using a computer in the library.

Thanks to all for your help.

Ron M.

Ron, I have removed a bridge glued with fish glue. It can be a little harder to reverse than some glues. You definitely want to get some moisture into the joint, it can take a lot of dry heat.

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David White, Toronto

"All my favourite singers can't sing."

My guess is that you'll be moving the bridge only a small amount? Will the new holes overlap the present ones? If so, you might be mindful about what you plug the old holes with. If you use hardwood for the dowels, and you drill new holes that overlap the old ones, the bit might have to bite into both some maple (if that's what the dowels are made of) and also some spruce. If that's the case the difference in hardness might make it difficult to keep the bit going exactly where you want it. If the holes do overlap, I'd think about using spruce for the part of the holes that pass through the top, and for the rest, use the same wood as the bridge is made of. If the new holes will miss the old holes altogether, this won't be an issue; just use the hard dowel all the way through.

Keep an eye on the finish as you heat the bridge.

Pat

_________________
formerly known around here as burbank
_________________

http://www.patfosterguitars.com

"Does it matter what kind of wood the plugs are made of?"
Not really as far as I'm concerned. If your using pre-made plugs or dowels they will more than likley be made of Birch which is a nice stable hardwood.

"Can I use dowels?"
Yes. But if you can find the dowels the tapered plugs usually are close by and the taper makes a good tight fit easier to accomplish assuming you have the proper reamer.

Steve

can anyone lead me to some decent quality mini ( or smaller than normal) tuners? thanks Jody

sorry I didnt mean to hijack your thread, i thought i was starting a new one , thats what I get for posting so late sorry , Jody

Thanks everyone for your help, I appreciate It. Dave, the only dry heat i have is a hair drier. Thanks



Pat Those are good points you made, Thanks

Scaller M6 minis are nice. I use them on a recent 12 string build.

Ron,

I wrote:

".....I'd think about using spruce for the part of the holes that pass through the top, and for the rest, use the same wood as the bridge is made of."

What I meant to write was, "use the same wood as the bridge PLATE is made of."

Pat

_________________
formerly known around here as burbank
_________________

http://www.patfosterguitars.com