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Need some guidance here.... I was just looking at the Lee Valley catalog. I'm gonna start using the "Scary Sharp" method for tuning up my stuff. I don't know if I should order the "Veritas Mk. II Honing Guide" or the "Veritas Sharpening System". I'll be sharpening chisels and plane irons mostly. I've read each item's description over and over but can't tell which would serve me best. Can anyone give some insight on these two? I'm having trouble seeing the big difference. Thanks.

Personal opinion; if you are going to be using the scary sharp system then any guide that will hold the plane level while traveling and at the proper angle will work as well as the next. It is nice to have quick setup features but it not difficult to set the right angle on any guide by adjusting the amount of blade exposed from the guide. Heck I use a $9 special from WoodCraft for years

What about for sharpening convex blades though? Would the Camber Roller be necessary?

I am the wrong one to answer as I don't use any convex blades but if you are using concave or convex then yep you probably would want it. I did not know you wor refering to this type of chisel

Well I have a couple of convex sole planes. Right now I'm debating if I should go with the LN "Eclipse" style or with the LV MK II System. There's a huge price difference so it's an important decision for me.

I just ordered the Eclipse style jig from LN. A lot of people speak highly of that type of jig. I read some posts by ToddStock that also swayed me in that direction. Hopefully it will work out.

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I've found the consistent repeatability of the MK11 very useful, especially with the micro bevel adjustment feature. One frustration was that it would not hold small blades like the finger plane blades.

I bought the MKII, liking all the features it advertised, such as the repeatability and the micro bevel. After a very frustrated hour of trying to sharpen a 3/8ths chisel, I about threw it out the window. So I sat at my computer and asked what the heck was I doing wrong. I received several replies, tons of great advice and insight. At the end of it all, I too bought an eclipse knockoff. I don't remember where I bought it from and I wished I kept the paperwork. I would have sent it back. That the castings can be a bit rough is an understatement. One side has a 3/32nd bow and the groove is cut too narrow, so it won't hold a blade without taking pliers to it to tighten it down. Its all fixable, and I readily admit that I didn't pay that much for it, but still.

So not wanting to spend more money, I went back to the MKII, followed Kim's and I think Sam's advice and turned it around so that the chisel handle was facing away from me, dropped my elbows and things worked well enough for me to shave my forearm. I deemed it a success.
I started off with the scary sharp system but I got tired of buying all the grits and always being out of one or two that I really needed and have followed Todd's advice. The Norton 8000 arrived on Saturday. I just need to pick up a course diamond stone and a burnisher for my card scrapers and I'll be set to sharpen all my tools to my hearts content.

Am I telling you that you shouldn't have gotten the Eclipse, no. Just pointing out that you have to find what works for you and that it might take you a couple of stabs at it before you find a comfortable system. How you get there isn't important. Having a really sharp edge is.

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Aoibeann

I love my new LN card scrapers, but was amazed at how quickly the edge wore off. I did buy a burnisher to recondition them, but obviously I have a lot to learn about repairing the edge.

Mike

What Todd said.

Link

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Cut to size.....Beat to fit.....Paint to match.

Lillian, you have a very good point about finding what suits you best. Right now I have a million items on my "to buy" list, so when I hear that a comparatively cheap honing guide can give a more expensive one a run for it's money I take heed. I'm sure the MK II can be a very good guide. I had my sites set on it for a long time. As for the rough castings on the Eclipse... I bought mine from Lie Nielsen and out of all the companies out there offering great products I trust them best with my money. Judging from their history it would seem they would not sell an inferior product. As long as the jig can function like it should I will be happy. If I get my jig and it's in the poor condition yours was in I would try to return it. But you're right! Trial and error is the name of the game! I'm just trying to lose the least amount of money possible in the process!

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Lots of good points! I have a MkII and it did take a bit of practice to get the hang of it, but it really does give repeatability. Like most things in wood craft, find a way that works for you and stick with it.

Scrapers are becoming my favorite tool! There are multiple ways to put a good bur on a scraper also. Check out the current issue Fine Woodworking for a photo essay on sharpening a scraper with simple tools -- a file and a screwdriver blade.

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Jim Howell
Charlotte, NC

I bought the MKII just last week because my normal honing guide (one of the ~$10 jobs, I gather an Eclipse or clone of), though good for most of my chisels and planes, doesn't handle tiny finger plane blades. The MKII handles these with ease and also is great for everything else I've thrown its way in the past week. Even did a decent job of sharpening Pfiel carving chisels which I'd long since given up on because of the difficulties in trying to sharpen them well.

In short I'd recommend the MKII but if you're just doing fairly standard chisels and blades, the Eclipse or similar do the job fine and can be just as accurate and quick if you whip up a simple jig for setting your required angles.

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Richard
http://www.guitarmaker.com

Archtop, I understand where you are coming from, oh trust me I understand. It has taken me quite a while to get to this point of being able to start building.

And while we are talking about spending your money, near the top of your need to buy list should be a gramil. It will make your life so much easier when you go to cut the bindings. Or if you are of a mind, make one. If you search through Waddy's posts you find a great thread on one he made. If memory serves, he uses his for the rosette as well as for bindings.

Todd you are very correct. When I realized what the problem was I didn't have a file that would fit and would be days before I could get one, so I pulled the MKII out and made friends with it. I'll get around to fixing the eclipse and using it.

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Aoibeann

Not funny.

I clicked on your name 3 times before I figured it out.

Mike

Lillian, it's interesting what you said about the gramil.... I'll mostly be doing rabbets on the body, neck and headstock. Don't think I'll be doing rosettes any time soon. I was told to pretty much forget about using a gramil or any other purfling/groove cutter for this work. For archtop work everyone said a router or lam trimmer is necessary. I'm pretty sure I'll be picking up Stew Mac's TrueChannel Binding Jig. It's a bit on the pricey side but sometimes it's worth it to spend to get the job done right.

About scrapers.... Does anyone know where I could bring a rectangle scraper and have it cut into an oval? It would be good if the same place could sharpen it too. Open to suggestions.

Archtop, the gramil isn't used to cut the channel per se. It is used to score the line for the channel. Once you score the line you are much less likely to blow a chunk out of the top or side when you use the router.

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Aoibeann