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I was wondering, other than the Martin D-style design I would like to go with a more solid design on my second guitar build. That means instead of a big butt end where the neck joins the body I'd rather have the neck run the whole length of the fretboard (with a one or two fret overhang) so that neck resets will be easier (no gluing the fretboard to the body) and better support of the fretboard to avoid humps. I was thinking of a design similar to Taylor's but there would be a heel where the neck would be flush mounted to the body with bolts going there. Is there a plan of a taylor dreadnaught shaped guitar somewhere?

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Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com

There are various approaches to this, and some members here do this kind of thing. Colin recently posted some photos of his neck joint construction, which is very much along the lines of what you're talking about. I can't seem to remember which thread it was, though. If you pm Colin (I think he's Colin S), I'm sure he'd help you out. Or start a new thread and title it more specifically... something like "neck joint with non-glued FB extension?"... and I think you'd get some good responses.

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Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/

Search the archive for "double mortise" . Here's a link that shows my version of that neck joint.

http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=14665&hilit=double+mortise

Also, check out Mike Doolin. He's got some great ideas for something similar too.

See http://www.wellsguitars.com/Articles/Double_Tenon.htm for a complete explanation on how to do it.

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Sylvan
http://www.wellsguitars.com

If you look in this thread you'll see the way that I make my necks and neck blocks. The fretboard glues to the neck all the way down with a few frets over. The neck is bolted to the body with just the two normal bolts, no M/T. The extension to the neck fits into a mortice routed in the top block.

http://luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=19290&p=271512&hilit=neck+extension#p271512

This recent thread also shows some more of the way I do it.

http://luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=19044&hilit=Cuban+mahogany

Here's the two components apart, the neck can be taken off at any time just with the two bolts.





Colin

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I don't believe in anything, I simply make use of a set of reasonable working hypotheses.

I've been reviewing threads on the bolt-on necks all over the universe and i like what i see on yours Colin as pretty darn simple which means it's the way i am likely to go when i get there. The one question i have is in regards to tolerances. because you don't bolt the fretboard extensnion down, does that mean the pocket has to be perfect to eliminate any buzz?

I understand your claim that the string pressure will force the FBE downwards onto the neck block and that seems to be enough to eliminate porblems there. What about the sides? Do they have to be tight enough that you need some persuader tool (Hammer?) to tap the neck down into place? Do you use any type of wax to minimize buzz? I'm thinking NOT!

What about clearance of the FB itself where it overlaps the top istelf? is that touching or is there some clearance so the FB is actually above the SB?

Thanks for all the pictures.!

Rob

This design isn't unlike Fender's bolt on neck and they never had a problem. In fact Fender makes the neck pocket loose so they can fit it better...

_________________
Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com

There is a small gap at the sides of the extension in the pocket to allow for some slight lateral adjustment of the neck fit.

I try and get the extension and the top of the guitar level, so that the FB is level with the top, I use a 1.5deg neck angle and a 25' top radius so only slight sanding of the top is needed to get everything snug. As to how tight the FB is to the top, well Lance asked this and I put a picture up somewhere, but I can't get a piece of typing paper between the FB and the top. When I used to glue the FB to the top I only used to glue a strip about an inch wide down the extension to allow differential expansion, and my current system has the FB as tight to the top as before. I have never experienced any buzz at all on any I have built.

Colin

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I don't believe in anything, I simply make use of a set of reasonable working hypotheses.

By the way is it possible for you to post a plan of the neck pocket portion so I can get an idea what is involved and how much wood is needed? I kinda have a few ideas in my head like have a Fender-like neck heel where the bolt portion is inside the wood beneath the fretboard extension (which means the wood around that area will be around 5/8" thick, just like a Fender) and the heel block is just for looks so that the guitar doesn't look off... you know like a baby taylor but without the obnoxious wood screw right through the fretboard.

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Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com