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PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2008 4:26 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Chris I have a 22-44 that gets very little use since I bought the Grizzly wide belt sander.
I have sanded a lot of maple on that 22-44. Light passes, full speed and new paper at least 80 grit but 60 is better. I always run mine at full speed for any wood. I haven't read where you mention what grit you are using.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2008 5:00 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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As has been said faster, light cuts. Remember that these little drum sanders are really finishing sanders not thicknessers, so should be treated as such. I have has both the 10-20 and 16-32, in fact I went back to the 10-20 as I preferred it to the 16-32, giving me a more consistent result.

Colin

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2008 10:26 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Chris, How did you make the 4" dust collection port on your shroud? I need to make that upgrade on mine.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2008 10:48 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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James W B wrote:
Chris here is what I do with a 10-20.A bit unorthodox,but it works.I open the lid ,place a huge fan blowing the dust at the point of impact.Slow the speed to 30 or maybe even lower.And make dang sure the paper doesn`t overlap itself.This has always been the cause of any burning.I use 80 grit for thicknessing of backs and sides,and 120 for tops.Make sure there is plenty of space between the wraps as it rolls around the drum.Trust me the stuff will move a little bit no matter how tightly you have it wrapped.Of course I have built a stand with wheels,and always roll that sucker outside.I can`t imagine any kind of dust system that would completely work on that sucker.
Good Luck,
James

James, when you say you roll it outside, do you still use a vacuum system?

Mike


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2008 12:36 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Hesh wrote:
Mattia my friend I have to disagree here. Even though you are decreasing the amount of time that the belt is in full contact with the wood the belt is actually in full contact with more wood more often. Consider this. When you mow a lawn and drive the mower fast into tall grass the motor bogs down and continues to be bogged down the entire time the grass is high and you are speeding along. The blade also spins slower and does not cut as well.

Drive the mower into the same grass but going slowly and as the grass gets cut the motor will not bog down as much which should equal less friction.

I am sure I could be wrong but it seems to me that slower, lighter cuts, since the material gets removed reducing friction is the way to go.


The mower analogy doesn't really work, as the mower balde heating up isn't an issue, and neither is the grass surface heating up. Yes, faster feed rates will increase fritction - all else being equal - but will also increase the potential for heat dissipation: the belt is in contact with the wood for shorter time (faster feed = less time in contact), and each section of the wood is in contact with the belt for a shorter period as well.

Slow down the feed rate, and the drum (paper) is in contact with the wood for more revolutions per unit area of wood: more contact, prolonged, more chance of heat buildup because both surfaces contact each other for a longer period.

I still find lighter cuts (smaller contact area, each bit of sandpaper touches the wood for a shorter time) and high feed rates give me consistent, solid results. I can't hog a lot off at a high feed rate, but I can get consistent, burn-free, non-overheated results. And that's important. If you want to do it fast, you'll probably be wanting an industrial wide belt sander...


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2008 12:59 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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The viscous friction is constant (friction does not increase or the roller would stop!)

But heat does build up with longer contact time at at a single point.

Mike


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