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 Post subject: Glue for HPL
PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2018 2:27 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Thu Nov 04, 2010 1:46 pm
Posts: 1874
First name: Freeman
Last Name: Keller
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I have a Martin DX1 with high pressure laminate top that has a detached bridge. What is the correct glue to reattach it (and vendor or source)? It is a clean failure at the glue line, I should be able to clean up the old stuff completely.


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 Post subject: Re: Glue for HPL
PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2018 3:14 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 06, 2011 12:04 am
Posts: 4403
First name: Chris
Last Name: Pile
City: Wichita
State: Kansas
Country: Good old US of A
Focus: Repair
Status: Professional
I use Loctite Gel.... Make sure you shield the top around the gluing area (tape, or whatever) to keep the fumes from discoloring the top.

My thread here:
viewtopic.php?f=10137&t=48813&p=644069&hilit=loctite+martin#p644069

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 Post subject: Re: Glue for HPL
PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2018 5:03 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Thu Nov 04, 2010 1:46 pm
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First name: Freeman
Last Name: Keller
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Thanks Chris, I was thinking slow set epoxy but the gel CA makes sense.


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 Post subject: Re: Glue for HPL
PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2018 4:59 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Location: Magnolia DE
First name: Brian
Last Name: Howard
City: Magnolia
State: Delaware
Zip/Postal Code: 19962
Country: United States
Focus: Repair
Status: Professional
Is it a wood grain or a black one? The black ones are made from color-core PLAM material and do not seem to hold up when reglued.

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 Post subject: Re: Glue for HPL
PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2018 11:00 am 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Thu Nov 04, 2010 1:46 pm
Posts: 1874
First name: Freeman
Last Name: Keller
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Brian (and Chris) - it is the wood grained one. The original joint failed at the HPL interface - the bridge had a nice coat of some sort of adhesive but there was almost none on the top - only a tiny bit along one edge that scraped off pretty easily. I took every bit of old glue off of the bridge with a belt sander and scraping - the top is dead flat in that area so I made sure the bridge was too. I tried to sand the HPL with 120 grit to make sure it was glue free (and to rough it up a bit) - it was almost impossible to make any marks in it.

I did glue it up with gel CA, clamped with my usual cauls and got good squeeze out, which scraped off pretty cleanly. I am somewhat concerned about the ease that both the old and new glue scraped from the top - I'll warn my customer that it might fail in the future.


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 Post subject: Re: Glue for HPL
PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2018 7:30 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2010 9:06 pm
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Location: Magnolia DE
First name: Brian
Last Name: Howard
City: Magnolia
State: Delaware
Zip/Postal Code: 19962
Country: United States
Focus: Repair
Status: Professional
Freeman wrote:

I did glue it up with gel CA, clamped with my usual cauls and got good squeeze out, which scraped off pretty cleanly. I am somewhat concerned about the ease that both the old and new glue scraped from the top - I'll warn my customer that it might fail in the future.


Yep, the plastic coating is tough tough tough, that's why PLAM is used for counter tops and floors. IME 50% of those wood grained that have been repaired will fail again. That is almost 100% for the black ones as the softer color core material deforms under the bridge with age so getting a good mating of parts becomes impossible.

You can cut the plastic layer off with a dremel and base so as to adhere directly to the high pressure core material which is actually designed to glue things to (like c-top substrates) and then almost any glue will work. But few want to spend that much for a bridge reglue on a $400 guitar.....

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You never know what you are capable of until you actually try.

https://www.howardguitarsdelaware.com/


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 Post subject: Re: Glue for HPL
PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2018 10:43 am 
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Cocobolo
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Posts: 265
Location: United States
First name: Frank
Last Name: Ford
City: Palo Alto
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Zip/Postal Code: 94301
Country: USA
Focus: Repair
Status: Professional
There's a good case to be made for bolts in this application, in addition to cyanoacrylate.

If you ever encounter one of those aluminum tops with a loose bridge, I suggest you consider bolts as a necessity.

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