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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2018 7:22 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Wed Feb 17, 2016 8:54 am
Posts: 298
State: Texas
Country: United States
Focus: Repair
This came into the shop. It was at a local shop back in the day. Has had some home gamer engineering going on.

Best I can tell it's a 41/40 L-00 judging from the number on the neck block as well as the bracing/construction. These have a great potential to sound awesome but this one has had it ROUGH.

The good: original pickguard, original bridge plate/bracing, original top/neck/fretboard/frets. Headstock has never been broken off. The original logo was preserved.

The bad: Refinished twice (was refininshed when the current owner got it). Bridge has a (F'ing) BOLT through the top from another "well respected" repair guy in the area years ago. Original bridge is gone. Bridge plate is cracked. Headstock was murdered (see pics). Truss rod was raped to "compensate" for the bad action. Moldy paper on the inside? (no idea why). Serious belly from the (F'ing) BOLT in the bridge.

Suffice to say it needs it all. This was the current owner's first guitar from his childhood. This will be a really fun one. Gibson of this era tends to be a pretty good sounding guitar when they're in working order. There's too much to do to list it all so this little photo journal will cover each step I take. '

I would like some advice on some things (Paging Brian Howard). The owner requested that if I can find a way to add some black finish to the headstock that he'd be thrilled. Along with the headstock finish I also want to use a period correct rectangular bridge. Doing this would require some finish touchup on the top. I have no safe way to spray finish in my little shop. Given the rough state of the guitar I had considered using shellac that is tinted black and simply touching up the area and blending as best as possible. The owner is aware that there is no way to make it completely invisible. The owner also told me that when he refinished it black that he used lacquer. Any thoughts on this would be welcome.

In the meantime. Behold... pics.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2018 8:00 pm 
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Contributing Member
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Joined: Sun Feb 17, 2013 4:58 pm
Posts: 782
First name: Ed
Last Name: Minch
City: Chestertown
State: MD
Zip/Postal Code: 21620
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Looks like someone was trying to copy the bridge off of a an earlier body style version of that guitar. The one below is a Nick Lucas. The Nick has an uncompensated saddle, where yours is compensated. Might be cool to leave the bridge.

Did those guitars have scalloped braces?

If the owner refinished it, why not strip it and refinish it again only correctly?

These are fantastic guitars

Ed


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These users thanked the author Ruby50 for the post: DanKirkland (Fri Oct 12, 2018 9:23 am)
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2018 8:05 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Wed Feb 17, 2016 8:54 am
Posts: 298
State: Texas
Country: United States
Focus: Repair
Ruby50 wrote:
Looks like someone was trying to copy the bridge off of a an earlier body style version of that guitar. The one below is a Nick Lucas. The Nick has an uncompensated saddle, where yours is compensated. Might be cool to leave the bridge.

Did those guitars have scalloped braces?

If the owner refinished it, why not strip it and refinish it again only correctly?


The 40s L-00s did have scalloped bracing from all the examples I've seen. Of course you've probably seen alot more than me, any thoughts on that?

I offered the full refin but he didn't have enough money to do that. We're at max budget for the work as is. The bridge was the one thing he was very insistent about. He said that he hates it. The bolt thing bugs the crap out of me too. If he didn't hate it so much I'd leave it like you suggested. Plus when you look at it up close it's really crappily made and finished.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 7:05 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2010 9:06 pm
Posts: 2193
Location: Magnolia DE
First name: Brian
Last Name: Howard
City: Magnolia
State: Delaware
Zip/Postal Code: 19962
Country: United States
Focus: Repair
Status: Professional
I've seen far worse...... really good bones there! Take a closer look at that X brace in the second pic though, looks like a crack started in it 1/3 down from the peak in the scallop.

The headstock finish could be salvaged if done very carefully. First you must ascertain as best as possible what is actually on there, which is likely a few layers of different finishes. I would very much consider restoring the crest of the head too as when finished in all black that misshapen top profile will look very bad as opposed to just beat up as it does now.

If it is original gibson black then it is just lampblack in clear nitro, you may need to add some amber to get it just right to accommodate age.

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You never know what you are capable of until you actually try.



http://www.brianhowardguitars.com
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Howard-G ... 3702413493
http://howardguitars.blogspot.com/



These users thanked the author B. Howard for the post: DanKirkland (Fri Oct 12, 2018 9:14 am)
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 9:21 am 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Wed Feb 17, 2016 8:54 am
Posts: 298
State: Texas
Country: United States
Focus: Repair
B. Howard wrote:
I've seen far worse...... really good bones there! Take a closer look at that X brace in the second pic though, looks like a crack started in it 1/3 down from the peak in the scallop.

The headstock finish could be salvaged if done very carefully. First you must ascertain as best as possible what is actually on there, which is likely a few layers of different finishes. I would very much consider restoring the crest of the head too as when finished in all black that misshapen top profile will look very bad as opposed to just beat up as it does now.

If it is original gibson black then it is just lampblack in clear nitro, you may need to add some amber to get it just right to accommodate age.


I see that crack, thanks for pointing that out sir!

I don't have a way to safely shoot nitro in my little shop. That was one reason I was thinking of the shellac/french polish option.

That is a good point about the headstock Brian. Any suggestions on a method to rebuild the edges of the crest?


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 11:26 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Wed Apr 08, 2009 9:34 am
Posts: 2965
My wife has a '37 L00 just like that. Thin top and telegraphing braces all over top, sounds excellent. She has a matching 12, but it's not that hot.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2018 4:32 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2010 9:06 pm
Posts: 2193
Location: Magnolia DE
First name: Brian
Last Name: Howard
City: Magnolia
State: Delaware
Zip/Postal Code: 19962
Country: United States
Focus: Repair
Status: Professional
DanKirkland wrote:
I don't have a way to safely shoot nitro in my little shop. That was one reason I was thinking of the shellac/french polish option.


Best not doing anything then.... That original logo is priceless.

DanKirkland wrote:
That is a good point about the headstock Brian. Any suggestions on a method to rebuild the edges of the crest?


The logo and wanting to save it will make this a bit more challenging. I would limit this too the treble side only and cut that side of the crest back to a straight line at whatever tangent needed and half lap a new piece in from the rear.....

_________________
Brian

You never know what you are capable of until you actually try.



http://www.brianhowardguitars.com
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Howard-G ... 3702413493
http://howardguitars.blogspot.com/


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2018 9:05 pm 
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Contributing Member
Contributing Member

Joined: Sun Feb 17, 2013 4:58 pm
Posts: 782
First name: Ed
Last Name: Minch
City: Chestertown
State: MD
Zip/Postal Code: 21620
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Looks like you could get the shape of the head back by recutting it about 1/16" lower, maybe 3/32". That would get the corners close to square, and improve the center of the mustache.


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