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PostPosted: Mon Feb 26, 2024 8:13 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Thu Jan 11, 2018 9:19 am
Posts: 297
Location: St. Charles MO
First name: Karl
Last Name: B
State: MO
Zip/Postal Code: 63303
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
SEALER QUESTION:
New Build
[*]Mohawk Stringed instrument lacquer.
[*]Spruce Top.
[*]Buff-through is over an area that was damaged from a fall and subsequently lacquered.
[*]bare wood, about the size of a half dollar.

My question is; what are your thoughts on hitting that bare wood with the vinyl sealer before lacquering the repair?
That would make the immediate area around the spot repair; WOOD-SEALER-LACQUER-SEALER-LACQUER.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Posting the question here, I've just decided to go with lacquer over the small bare wood spot. I'm still interested in your thoughts though.

_________________
Measure Twice,

Karl B.


Last edited by Kbore on Mon Feb 26, 2024 8:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 26, 2024 8:14 pm 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Thu Jan 11, 2018 9:19 am
Posts: 297
Location: St. Charles MO
First name: Karl
Last Name: B
State: MO
Zip/Postal Code: 63303
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Change up: Since I don't know any reason "not to", I applied the recommended sanding sealer to the local area of the bare wood. The posts that follow will be a repair log on any negative effects of doing it (applying Mohawk sanding sealer to a half-dollar sized spot of bare wood on an already lacquered and buffed lacquer finish). At least it will answer the question.

One wet coat of sanding sealer was applied to the spot, let dry for 45 minutes then lightly sanded with 320. Mohawk SIL lacquer will follow, probably 9 or 10 wet coats total, to the local area of repair. Three lacquer coats were applied today. It could take many, many months for any ill-effects to present.

While I've got the lacquer out:
I didn't know to sand a relief (radius) into the sharp edge of the binding. Last June this build fell to the concrete and required a top crack repair and relacquer and an eventual complete removal of the lacquer from the top. While performing this work, the sharp edge of the binding became a major issue for the re-lacquering. Today I realized that the sharp edge would also eventually become a major issue for the player's arm, if not corrected. So, I relieved the entire edge around the soundboard, to a pleasing radius, that will also require re-lacquering. I struggled with that decision for months and today closed the books on the decision. I trust it was a good one. I am feeling pretty ignorant and trying to fix that too.

_________________
Measure Twice,

Karl B.



These users thanked the author Kbore for the post: SteveSmith (Tue Feb 27, 2024 6:01 am)
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