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 Post subject: Neck
PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2011 10:55 pm 
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First name: Rob
Last Name: McDougall
City: Cochrane
State: Alberta
Using the router table to route the truss rod channel - 1/4'" wide x 3/8" deep
Attachment:
IMG_2959 (Large).JPG

The end of the truss rod must end up below the surface of the headstock
Attachment:
IMG_2960 (Large).JPG

On a line square to the centerline, cut the edge of the veneer that will butt up to the nut at a 17 degree angle.
Attachment:
IMG_2961 (Large).JPG

Four x 1/16" holes have been drilled through the veneer into the headstock outside of the headstock pattern. 1/16" brad nails will be used to locate the veneer during glue-up. The caul has 1/4" holes where the brads will protrude. The veneer has been notched for the truss rod.
Attachment:
IMG_2963 (Large).JPG

A block is clamped square to the headstock to neck junction line. Apply an even, fairly light glue layer, locate the veneer with the brads, then clamp. Let set overnight.
Attachment:
IMG_2964 (Large).JPG


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 Post subject: Neck Tenon
PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2011 7:50 pm 
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First name: Rob
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Using the adjustable protractor to copy the neck to body angle to transfer to the neck blank. (Should be 85.6 degrees)
Attachment:
IMG_2965 (Large).JPG

Transferring the neck to body angle at the 16th fret on the neck blank.
Attachment:
IMG_2966 (Large).JPG

Cutting the neck to body angle just down to the 1.5" tenon line
Attachment:
IMG_2967 (Large).JPG

Another line is rough cut on the tenon side - this will be the limit of the band saw cut
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IMG_2968 (Large).JPG

Cutting the tenon on the bandsaw, up to the safety line. Masking tape on the line as used as a visual guide.
Attachment:
IMG_2969 (Large).JPG

The remainder of the cut to the body line will be carefully done with a chisel.
Attachment:
IMG_2970 (Large).JPG

The neck to body joint has been cleaned up with a chisel.
Attachment:
IMG_2971 (Large).JPG

The material for the pickup cavity at the end of the tenon has been removed.
Attachment:
IMG_2972 (Large).JPG


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 Post subject: Neck
PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2011 8:19 pm 
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First name: Rob
Last Name: McDougall
City: Cochrane
State: Alberta
After carefully shaving the tenon down to size, the tenon is fitted into the body and the cutaway line is marked.
Attachment:
IMG_2973 (Large).JPG

Starting to look like a guitar....
Attachment:
IMG_2974 (Large).JPG

For the headstock inlay, the inlay was photocopied. (which was glued on black cardboard). In an image editor it was rendered as negative, black and white, and the contrast was increased to make an image that could be printed and glued to the headstock as a template. Then just rout out the black bits. It is important not to choose an inlay that is too bold...
Attachment:
IMG_2975 (Large).JPG

Using the Dremel and a 1/16" end mill to carve out the inlay. This needs to be done in two passes.
Attachment:
IMG_2976 (Large).JPG

Ready for the inlay
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IMG_2977 (Large).JPG

The inlay was glued in with medium CA, then filled in with epoxy mixed with black dye.
Attachment:
IMG_2992 (Large).JPG

To cut the fretboard inlays, the fretboard is held in a channel cut into MDF that is the exact thickness of the fretboard. The block inlays are centered and marked around with a pencil. The bulk of the inlay was removed with a 1/8" end mill, than a 1/32" end mill was used to cut to the line.
Attachment:
IMG_2978 (Large).JPG

The MOP block inlays were glued in place with medium CA, then Woodcraft filler was pressed in before smoothing with the 12" radius block.
Attachment:
IMG_2979 (Large).JPG


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 Post subject: Fretboard
PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2011 8:31 pm 
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First name: Rob
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The fretboard taper, (minus the binding) was traced on the fretboard, then taped off to provide a visual guide for the #4 plane on the shooting board.
Attachment:
IMG_2981 (Large).JPG

After planing, the fretboard is taken down to the exact size on the sandpaper jointing jig. The sandpaper is held square onto a piece of flat 1/4" float glass.
Attachment:
IMG_2982 (Large).JPG

After attaching the binding at the end of the fretboard, the side binding is clamped against the fretboard, then a drop of thin CA is wicked between the frets, to avoid getting any glue in the fret slots. Two layers of masking tape are on the bottom of the fretboard, allowing the binding to fit proud of the bottom, so it can be scraped flush later. Once dry, the fretboard is turned over and a bead of thin CA is wicked into the bottom seam.
Attachment:
IMG_2983 (Large).JPG

The fretboard length just butts into the pickup ring. The nut end is 1-11/16", the butt end is 2 1/4". The binding width is 0.070", to match the binding width on the body.
Attachment:
IMG_2985 (Large).JPG

The headstock template is attached to the headstock with double-sided tape. 3 operations will follow - cutting the shape using a router with a pattern bit, drilling the 1/16" pilot holes for the tuners, and shaping the "moustache" at the peak of the headstock with a needle file.
Attachment:
IMG_2986 (Large).JPG

To position the fretboard for gluing, the fretboard is lightly clamped into position against a dummy nut exactly on the layout lines, and 6 x 1/2" pieces of wood binding are CA'd in place using medium CA.
Attachment:
IMG_2988 (Large).JPG

After gluing the truss rod in place, masking tape is placed over the truss rod and the glue is spread.
Attachment:
IMG_2990 (Large).JPG

After removing the masking tape the fretboard is clamped into place, ensuring it is snug up against the dummy nut. The binding pieces will prevent the fretboard from sliding around during clamp-up. The cauls are shaped to the 12" fretboard radius and lined with 1/8" cork.
Attachment:
IMG_2991 (Large).JPG


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 10:46 pm 
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First name: Rob
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State: Alberta
Okee-Dokee - there has been progress......
Attachment:
IMG_3065 (Large).JPG


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Last edited by Robbie_McD on Sun May 08, 2011 9:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2011 9:25 am 
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First name: Chris
Last Name: Pile
City: Wichita
State: Kansas
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Focus: Repair
Status: Professional
Well done! I'd be proud to own it.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2011 10:03 am 
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First name: Rob
Last Name: McDougall
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State: Alberta
Thanks Chris!
I sprayed 18 coats of EM6000 last weekend, so am looking to complete this project this weekend.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2011 4:34 pm 
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First name: Brian
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Country: USA/Spain
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It looks awesome. You are way too fast lol


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2011 8:47 pm 
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First name: Rob
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State: Alberta
Thanks! The LP build has caught my attention, so am putting some time into it.
I will post some catch-up pix tomorrow.
This build has come along exceedingly well, really looking forward to stringing it up!

Rob


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 8:54 pm 
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First name: Rob
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Just a few pix to close out this thread:
Attachment:
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IMG_3015 (Large).JPG

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IMG_3022 (Large).JPG

Attachment:
IMG_3046 (Large).JPG

Attachment:
IMG_3064 (Large).JPG

Attachment:
IMG_3070 (Large).JPG


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 8:57 pm 
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First name: Rob
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Attachment:
IMG_3073 (Large).JPG

Attachment:
IMG_3081 (Large).JPG

All done!
57 days.
Plays like a dream!


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 10:54 pm 
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Focus: Repair
Status: Professional
Outstanding!

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2011 3:10 am 
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Great work ! wow7-eyes

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 13, 2011 9:38 pm 
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First name: Dave
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I've been following your build Robbie! It came out really nice! Excellent stuff!!

I'm planning on having a go at some solidbody guitars later on this year myself...

Cheers,
Dave F.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 13, 2011 10:20 pm 
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First name: Rob
Last Name: McDougall
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Chris, Ken, thanks!
Dave, best of luck on your build.
Here is some more detailed pics and narrative on this build:

http://s16.photobucket.com/albums/b33/robmcdougall/Les%20Paul%20Build%201/

I just started a double cutaway model that will be a little thinner.....


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PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2011 5:33 am 
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Nice work! How long did the project take to complete? Looks like you moved along quickly.

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Avon, OH


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PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2011 6:57 am 
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First name: Rob
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State: Alberta
Thanks Brad!
57 days start to finish, part-time evenings and weekends....
The only serviced part was the slotted fingerboard.


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PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2011 11:25 am 
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Robbie_McD wrote:
Thanks Brad!
57 days start to finish, part-time evenings and weekends....
The only serviced part was the slotted fingerboard.


57 days...nice job. What did you use for a finish?

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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2011 7:14 am 
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First name: Rob
Last Name: McDougall
City: Cochrane
State: Alberta
After pore-fill with Timbermate, and wipedown with a light cut of shellac, I sprayed 15 coats of Target EM6000 in 3 sessions.


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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2011 11:19 am 
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Robbie,

Beautiful work. Thanks for sharing.

For those of us who also want to build a first electric, are there any other lessons you learned or insights you gained that may help us?

Thanks,
Kevin Looker

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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2011 7:43 pm 
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First name: Rob
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Hi Kevin,

What I did was build from an established design - the LP set neck guitar.
I researched as much as I could then just started building.
The key was the templates I think - spending the time to create and make perfect made the guitar build go like butter.
I followed the same approach on my current "designed-by-me" build and it is turning out great.
I also took the time to create a full-size top and side-view set of plans.
The neck geometry must be correct, but that is the same for any guitar.
I found that the combo of 4.4 degree neck angle, 1.2 degree pickup angle works out perfectly.

Biggest lesson? Don't try a hand-rubbed aniline stain on a carved maple top. I will spray the burst on my current build, am hoping for better results.

Just post if you have any specific questions.

Rob


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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2011 8:42 pm 
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First name: Phillip
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Very nice! I only have one question: What does it sound like? :)

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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2011 9:26 pm 
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First name: Rob
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Phillip Patton wrote:
Very nice! I only have one question: What does it sound like? :)


Hahaaa!
How could I give you an unbiased opinion? :D
However....other "real" players that have played it have commented first on the playability and sustain.
At 9lbs 12oz it has sustain....
The pickups I used are slightly hot so it has a nice crunch when driven, which is what I was looking for.


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