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PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2017 3:40 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Fri Dec 01, 2006 6:44 pm
Posts: 437
Location: Australia
First name: Allen
Last Name: McFarlen
City: Mt. Sheridan
State: Qld.
Zip/Postal Code: 4868
Country: Australia
Focus: Build
Status: Professional
I've had this set of Sapele on the shelf for about 8 years waiting for a special project to warrant using it. Don't mind saying I was pretty nervouse bending those sides.

Body - Sapele
Soundboard - Western Red Cedar
Peg Head Veneers - Sapele
Fret Board - Macasar Ebony with 12" - 16" compound radius
Rosette - Spalted Maple
Bindings - Indian Rosewood
Tuners - Waverly with Snake Wood buttons
Finish - High gloss lacquer

Attachment:
6 String Sapele Tenor-4.jpg

Attachment:
6 String Sapele Tenor-7.jpg

Attachment:
6 String Sapele Tenor-2.jpg

Attachment:
6 String Sapele Tenor-10.jpg

Attachment:
6 String Sapele Tenor-12.jpg

Attachment:
6 String Sapele Tenor-14.jpg

Attachment:
6 String Sapele Tenor-15.jpg

Attachment:
6 String Sapele Tenor-13.jpg


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Barron River Guitars & Ukuleles
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2017 6:58 pm 
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Last Name: Pile
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ERMAGAWD! Like chewy candy....

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2017 7:10 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 31, 2009 8:50 pm
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Location: Seattle WA
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Nize!


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2017 7:30 pm 
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Koa
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 8:21 am
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First name: Brad
Last Name: Combs
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Stunning!


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2017 7:53 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2008 11:36 am
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Location: Southeast US
City: Lenoir City
State: TN
Zip/Postal Code: 37772
Country: US
Focus: Build
Gorgeous!

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2017 1:46 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Thu Feb 12, 2009 12:12 pm
Posts: 2329
First name: Bryan
Last Name: Bear
City: St. Louis
State: Mo
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
wow7-eyes [clap] !

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2017 1:59 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2010 11:42 pm
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very nice!

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2017 11:43 am 
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Koa
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Joined: Thu Dec 18, 2008 11:42 am
Posts: 1084
Location: Hudson, MA
First name: Kevin
Last Name: Quine
City: Hudson
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Wow...I've never seen sapele like that before. Looks gorgeous with that satin finish


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2017 7:58 pm 
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First name: Ed
Last Name: Minch
City: Chestertown
State: MD
Zip/Postal Code: 21620
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Beautifully conceived and executed

Ed


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2017 9:55 pm 
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Koa
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Joined: Thu Feb 12, 2009 10:27 pm
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Location: South Carolina
First name: John
Last Name: Cox
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Beautiful! Very clean.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2017 10:16 pm 
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First name: Jay
Last Name: De Rocher
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There are so many details about this instrument to like and they all work together. The oval sound hole really fits the elongated body shape, IMO. Sorry if you have covered this in another thread before, but could you describe how the two-piece pinless bridge works? Is the lighter colored piece behind the main bridge glued to the top? Are the strings threaded through the back end of the light colored piece?


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2017 9:11 am 
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First name: Chris
Last Name: Ensor
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State: Missouri
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I'm drooling....

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2017 3:40 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Fri Dec 01, 2006 6:44 pm
Posts: 437
Location: Australia
First name: Allen
Last Name: McFarlen
City: Mt. Sheridan
State: Qld.
Zip/Postal Code: 4868
Country: Australia
Focus: Build
Status: Professional
J De Rocher wrote:
There are so many details about this instrument to like and they all work together. The oval sound hole really fits the elongated body shape, IMO. Sorry if you have covered this in another thread before, but could you describe how the two-piece pinless bridge works? Is the lighter colored piece behind the main bridge glued to the top? Are the strings threaded through the back end of the light colored piece?


The bridge is one piece with a veneer attached to the string platform. I choose a veneer to compliment each instruments timbers.

On this one they are string through the sound board with a bead attached to the string and pull up against the bridge patch. Done this way because there is no room for bridge pins on the double courses. On my 4 string instruments I also use a bead and use un-slotted pins as you would with a steel string guitar.

Attachment:
Bridges.jpg


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Barron River Guitars & Ukuleles
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Cairns, Australia


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2017 8:18 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2012 12:47 pm
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First name: Jay
Last Name: De Rocher
City: Bothell
State: Washington
Zip/Postal Code: 98021
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Thanks for the photo and description of your bridges. It's a very cool design and I like how it echoes the headstock shape.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 21, 2017 6:29 am 
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Zip/Postal Code: 14217
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Beautiful uke. Looks like the sapele we had years ago. Never seen anything quite like it again.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 21, 2017 8:37 am 
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Koa
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 8:21 am
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First name: Brad
Last Name: Combs
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Allen McFarlen wrote:
On this one they are string through the sound board with a bead attached to the string and pull up against the bridge patch. Done this way because there is no room for bridge pins on the double courses. On my 4 string instruments I also use a bead and use un-slotted pins as you would with a steel string guitar.


So you put the string in through the top and grab it through the soundhole, then attach the bead? What type of bead? I'm interested because I'm thinking of making a 6 string tenor for my next uke. Also, do you put any CF rods in the neck to account for the extra stress of a 6 string?

Thanks!
Brad

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 21, 2017 3:27 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Fri Dec 01, 2006 6:44 pm
Posts: 437
Location: Australia
First name: Allen
Last Name: McFarlen
City: Mt. Sheridan
State: Qld.
Zip/Postal Code: 4868
Country: Australia
Focus: Build
Status: Professional
Yes, you push the string through and grab it. Sometimes a bit of bent wire helps to fish it out of the sound hole. I use a 4mm glass or metal bead. If you use a pinned bridge, then they will still fit down the hole as it's around 5mm after the taper. You can get them from the hobby shop for a few bucks for a couple hundred.

I don't use CF anymore. I increased the thickness of my fret boards to 5mm with a compound radius on them. I cut stopped fret slots in all of them with my CNC. You'd be surprised at how much stiffer the fret board is when built like that.

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Barron River Guitars & Ukuleles
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These users thanked the author Allen McFarlen for the post: bcombs510 (Fri Apr 21, 2017 3:29 pm)
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 21, 2017 3:36 pm 
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Koa
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 8:21 am
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First name: Brad
Last Name: Combs
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I see, so putting a regular bead onto the string and then a knot behind it and pull it up against the bridge plate. Makes sense. I had in my head something that crimps on and I was thinking that would maybe be prone to failure.

I have some guitar fretboards from Andy Birko that he calls "faux bound" and they are indeed much more stiff than a typical slotted board. I wonder what the comparison to a bound fretboard would be? In any case, thanks for the info!

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 22, 2017 3:17 am 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Fri Dec 01, 2006 6:44 pm
Posts: 437
Location: Australia
First name: Allen
Last Name: McFarlen
City: Mt. Sheridan
State: Qld.
Zip/Postal Code: 4868
Country: Australia
Focus: Build
Status: Professional
I use a figure 8 knot to tie the bead on. Depending on the brand / type of string you probably need to capture the bead in the knot on the finer strings like the high G and A or you risk pulling the knot right through the bead.

A bound fret board is stiffer than an unbound one by a fair bit, but in my experience still not as stiff as the "faux bound" ones. When you add a purfling and glue lines with the bound ones, there does seem to be a bit more "give" to the board.

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Barron River Guitars & Ukuleles
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Cairns, Australia



These users thanked the author Allen McFarlen for the post: bcombs510 (Sat Apr 22, 2017 8:40 am)
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