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 Post subject: Bridge Tutorial
PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 5:22 pm 
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Koa
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 8:21 am
Posts: 804
First name: Brad
Last Name: Combs
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Hello,

I'd like to make a custom bridge for a tenor Uke I'm working on. The FB is ebony so if like to make the bridge the same. Are there any tutorials out there on Uke bridge making? I have one of the "premium" rosewood bridges from SM. I could just replicate that but wondered if there was a walk through that someone already had bookmarked?

Any pointers are appreciated!

Thanks,
Brad


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 Post subject: Re: Bridge Tutorial
PostPosted: Fri Jul 08, 2016 8:05 pm 
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Joined: Sun Feb 17, 2013 4:58 pm
Posts: 595
First name: Ed
Last Name: Minch
City: Chestertown
State: MD
Zip/Postal Code: 21620
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I just went through the same thing and did not come up any tutorial. I made one by going through the steps - cutting the blank the right thickness but oversized for length and width, routing the saddle groove a little thinner than the saddle blank and sanding the side of the blank to fit, cutting the length and width of the blank, drilling the off-center string-knot holes by clamping an extra piece along the bottom of the blank, then cutting the string slots. Mine was in Osage Orange, so a little harder to work that ebony or mahogany, but easy enough.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/ruby1638/27169040206/in/album-72157662606115293/

This, of course, assumes that this is the type of bridge you are going for. If you are after a more guitar-like bridge, perhaps with pins, there are a lot of guitar bridge tutorials out there.

Ed



These users thanked the author Ruby50 for the post: bcombs510 (Sat Jul 09, 2016 9:58 am)
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 Post subject: Re: Bridge Tutorial
PostPosted: Sat Jul 09, 2016 9:59 am 
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Koa
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 8:21 am
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First name: Brad
Last Name: Combs
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Ruby50 wrote:
I just went through the same thing and did not come up any tutorial. I made one by going through the steps - cutting the blank the right thickness but oversized for length and width, routing the saddle groove a little thinner than the saddle blank and sanding the side of the blank to fit, cutting the length and width of the blank, drilling the off-center string-knot holes by clamping an extra piece along the bottom of the blank, then cutting the string slots. Mine was in Osage Orange, so a little harder to work that ebony or mahogany, but easy enough.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/ruby1638/27169040206/in/album-72157662606115293/

This, of course, assumes that this is the type of bridge you are going for. If you are after a more guitar-like bridge, perhaps with pins, there are a lot of guitar bridge tutorials out there.

Ed


Thanks, Ed. That helps a ton! I'll study your pics and probably build pretty much the same. What was the angle on the jig used to drill the holes? I'm thinking about 5 - 7 degrees, does that seem about right?

Thanks!
Brad


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 Post subject: Re: Bridge Tutorial
PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2016 5:00 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Mon Apr 14, 2008 3:20 am
Posts: 228
Location: Kapolei HI
First name: Aaron
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bcombs510 wrote:
Ruby50 wrote:
I just went through the same thing and did not come up any tutorial. I made one by going through the steps - cutting the blank the right thickness but oversized for length and width, routing the saddle groove a little thinner than the saddle blank and sanding the side of the blank to fit, cutting the length and width of the blank, drilling the off-center string-knot holes by clamping an extra piece along the bottom of the blank, then cutting the string slots. Mine was in Osage Orange, so a little harder to work that ebony or mahogany, but easy enough.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/ruby1638/27169040206/in/album-72157662606115293/

This, of course, assumes that this is the type of bridge you are going for. If you are after a more guitar-like bridge, perhaps with pins, there are a lot of guitar bridge tutorials out there.

Ed


Thanks, Ed. That helps a ton! I'll study your pics and probably build pretty much the same. What was the angle on the jig used to drill the holes? I'm thinking about 5 - 7 degrees, does that seem about right?

Thanks!
Brad


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The bridge that Ed made is sized more for a Standard than a Tenor; MAYBE a Concert.

Based on your statements so far, I'm going to guess you aren't working on plans, or on specs from another Tenor, so your slate is clean. This can be great to have free creative reign. Not so great if you don't know the intended outcome of what you're working with. The bridge is arguably the most important brace on an ukulele. If your intent is to put a Standard bridge on a Tenor instrument, then I stand corrected.

Otherwise, you could search other forums for bridge building steps, C&N probably has it in their book, as do other instructional books like Hana Lima's. I'll guess G&G have it as well.

Or, just search sites like "Hawaii Music Supply" or "Ukulele Friend" to see what's out there. Be advised, both have archived "sold" instruments that is a wealth of images. You should be able to figure how to build a bridge from there, short of their exact specs, which will differ from yours based on other variables, such as location on the body, height in relation to fretboard, etc.

Here's one of my older versions - I've since increased the gluing area, and simplified the bridge, but you get the gist:


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These users thanked the author Aaron O for the post: bcombs510 (Sun Jul 10, 2016 5:17 pm)
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 Post subject: Re: Bridge Tutorial
PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 7:58 pm 
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Contributing Member
Contributing Member

Joined: Sun Feb 17, 2013 4:58 pm
Posts: 595
First name: Ed
Last Name: Minch
City: Chestertown
State: MD
Zip/Postal Code: 21620
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Thanks, Ed. That helps a ton! I'll study your pics and probably build pretty much the same. What was the angle on the jig used to drill the holes? I'm thinking about 5 - 7 degrees, does that seem about right?

Thanks!
Brad


Brad

Just saw your question. I used the Grellier plans for this Soprano bridge, and they do not show the holes from the side to give an angle an angle. I did not know that was a possibility, so mine are straight in and they work fine.

Ed


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