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PostPosted: Sun Aug 29, 2010 7:32 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Wed Apr 08, 2009 9:34 am
Posts: 3081
Here are the steps I use to do a sunburst on an F5 mandolin.

The binding is taped off. There is usually a lot of bleed through, but it saves some work in scraping so it's worth doing.

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The instrument is dyed antique yellow/amber.

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Three airbrushings of the brown. I do another 3 to darken further.

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Eight to ten drops of black dye are added to the brown left in the bottle and I darken the edges.

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I'll shoot a coat of spirit varnish on and tomorrow I'll peel the tape and scrape the binding.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 29, 2010 7:59 am 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Tue Mar 30, 2010 6:55 am
Posts: 169
First name: Tim
Last Name: Warren
State: Ok
Zip/Postal Code: 73020
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Haans, thanks for that. I never realized it could be that simple. So I take it that you don't actually spray the sides, they just catch the over spray when you shoot the top and back, correct?

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 29, 2010 8:41 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2004 3:50 pm
Posts: 4662
Location: Napa, CA
Thanks, Haans...nice process...I love your KISS practical approach.

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Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 29, 2010 10:59 am 
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First name: Big
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State: Deep in the heart of Bluegrass
Country: usa
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I tried to do it with rags and brushes ! [headinwall] [headinwall] Man Your way is soooooooo simple . [:Y:] Thanks BTW what type airbrush u using ? Is an expensive one necess , or are the cheaper ones sufficent ?

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 29, 2010 6:26 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Wed Apr 08, 2009 9:34 am
Posts: 3081
Tim88, I do spray the sides...there is a definite pattern to F5 ribs and sections are very dark. So, here's the rest of it. I use utility knife blades and grind a bit off the point on one to get the scroll.

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Xacto knife blades are used to get to the side of the binding. The non-sharp edge is ground to a square edge to scrape with.

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The scroll is finished on the top.

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A steel rule is taped to the fingerboard to use as a guide for scraping the F/B binding.

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One coat of oil varnish.

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The airbrush is an Iwata, but you can get by with a Paasche. The important part is to keep the brush extremely clean.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 29, 2010 9:45 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Thu Feb 21, 2008 2:37 pm
Posts: 118
Location: Louisville, KY USA
Hans,
thanks for the great information. Is that a big chunk of binding material in the background of the next to last picture? What is that? Did you make it?
Walter

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 6:24 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Wed Apr 08, 2009 9:34 am
Posts: 3081
Walter, that is a block of purling for a new style I'm working on. You can see more in the first couple of photos. A slice is cut off that block and that slice is cut into tiny pieces to form the purfling. See my website for the process. Here is a fairly final look...

Image


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 8:43 am 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Thu Feb 21, 2008 2:37 pm
Posts: 118
Location: Louisville, KY USA
Hans,
Nice website. Thanks again for the great info. I really admire the clever methods you have come up with (neck joints etc.)
Walter

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 18, 2011 5:17 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 06, 2011 12:04 am
Posts: 5756
First name: Chris
Last Name: Pile
City: Wichita
State: Kansas
Country: Good old US of A
Focus: Repair
Status: Professional
Well done - love it!

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 8:34 pm 
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Koa
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Location: Crownsville, MD
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Zip/Postal Code: 21032
Country: USA
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Status: Semi-pro
nice - thanks for posting!

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 29, 2011 10:22 am 
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Walnut
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Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2011 6:26 am
Posts: 8
Location: Matsumoto, Japan
First name: Ben
Last Name: Bryant
City: Matsumoto
State: Nagano
Zip/Postal Code: 3900852
Country: Japan
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
excellent.... bursts are an art form.


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