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PostPosted: Mon Nov 04, 2019 1:17 pm 
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Koa
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Hello,

What's the consensus on adding a bridge plate for a tenor uke? I'm usually using spruce or mahogany tops with fan bracing. Is it really needed? It it's skipped should the fan braces be maybe a little taller?

Brad

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 04, 2019 1:39 pm 
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I use them because my first uke plans all had them. I can't really give you a reason why or why-not. I don't mess with success, I guess



These users thanked the author Quine for the post: bcombs510 (Mon Nov 04, 2019 2:25 pm)
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 04, 2019 1:45 pm 
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I use them and even my Cordoba tenor has one. But it has no fan braces. I am currently using three fans and a bridge plate.
Ed



These users thanked the author edstrummer for the post: bcombs510 (Mon Nov 04, 2019 2:25 pm)
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 04, 2019 2:29 pm 
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I didn't use one on one of my first tenors. I wish I had, because the bridge area is twisting a little more than I would have liked. It took several years before it started happening though.

The bridge was quite narrow at 11/16. The top is .07 Koa and it has heavy fiddleback which I suspect might be at least some amount of factor.

Pat

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These users thanked the author Pmaj7 for the post: bcombs510 (Mon Nov 04, 2019 2:33 pm)
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 04, 2019 2:35 pm 
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Cool, thanks. I'll stick with the plan. Was trying to avoid fiddling with getting them to notched out over the plate. :)

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2019 1:25 pm 
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Koa
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I tend to use maple veneer running cross grain to protect the softer soundboard, but I use the HanaLima tie-through bridge.

Unkabob



These users thanked the author unkabob for the post: bcombs510 (Tue Nov 26, 2019 9:36 pm)
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 21, 2019 12:51 am 
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bcombs510 wrote:
Cool, thanks. I'll stick with the plan. Was trying to avoid fiddling with getting them to notched out over the plate. :)

I just put my bridge plate pieces around the braces. It seemed more intuitive because the braces are holding down the whole north south rotation thing and the plate is just spreading out the load a little.


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These users thanked the author Pmaj7 for the post: bcombs510 (Tue Nov 26, 2019 9:36 pm)
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 21, 2019 8:15 am 
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This works pretty well for cutting the reliefs in the braces for the bridge plate to pass through. I think it’s important for the plate to be continuous for stiffness across the top grain.

http://www.patfosterguitars.com/37hauser1/album/slides/DSC06833.html

The top surface of the vise jaws need to be flat and coplanar when closed. The slats of the spacer/jig are the same thickness as the plate. They gauge the amount the brace is raised above the tops of the jaws. Use the top of the jaws as a guide for the chisel and Bob’s your uncle.

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These users thanked the author Pat Foster for the post: bcombs510 (Tue Nov 26, 2019 9:35 pm)
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 24, 2019 4:55 pm 
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Koa
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Voice of dissent here.

Nix it unless you are using a pin bridge.
The bridge patch on a fan fret uke is there probably as a throwback to its cousin the classical guitar. The patch on the classical was there as a throwback to when they used pin bridges and wanted to protect the top.

Especially if you aren't making it much bigger than the bridge itself, it isn’t going to offer a lot in terms of rotational torque support.
So it is nothing but a huge pita.

Nix it

dl



These users thanked the author Dave Livermore for the post: bcombs510 (Tue Nov 26, 2019 9:35 pm)
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2019 12:44 am 
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I'd say yes to the bridge patch.


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These users thanked the author Aaron O for the post: bcombs510 (Tue Nov 26, 2019 9:35 pm)
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2019 5:14 pm 
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There are also tonal considerations with a bridge patch.

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These users thanked the author Pat Foster for the post: bcombs510 (Tue Dec 03, 2019 6:42 am)
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