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PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2015 7:19 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 18, 2012 8:35 pm
Posts: 2658
Location: Austin, Texas
First name: Dan
Last Name: Smith
City: Round Rock
State: TX
Zip/Postal Code: 78681
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
During polishing, I found some defects in the color layer.
I plan to sand and reshoot lacquer.
What's the finest grit of sandpaper that I can use?
I don't plan to sand down to wood, and my new color layer will be more opaque.
I was going for a red/black non-uniform look, (blood) but now I will do a single color.
Thanks for advice,
Dan


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 26, 2015 5:46 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2010 9:06 pm
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Location: Magnolia DE
First name: Brian
Last Name: Howard
City: Magnolia
State: Delaware
Zip/Postal Code: 19962
Country: United States
Focus: Repair
Status: Professional
Depends on the type of finish we are talking about but 600 would be as fine I as ever go to apply more finish over.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 26, 2015 7:29 am 
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First name: Brian
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Yes Dan from my auto painting past 600 wet'n'dry is your paper for this. 800 would be fine too but wouldn't go any higher in fear of not getting a good bond with the previous coat if you know what I mean.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 26, 2015 9:25 am 
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Joined: Fri May 18, 2012 8:35 pm
Posts: 2658
Location: Austin, Texas
First name: Dan
Last Name: Smith
City: Round Rock
State: TX
Zip/Postal Code: 78681
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Thanks guys, I'm using Behlen nitro.
I'll use 600 wet to try to maintain the levelling I've already done.
I figured nitro would melt into the existing nitro, but was not sure since it was polished.
Dan

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2015 12:59 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Thu Nov 04, 2010 1:46 pm
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First name: Freeman
Last Name: Keller
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Dan, I had a similar problem with the 335 - there was a flaw in the clear coats (10 or so) but not the color underneath. I took it to a friend who paints custom motorcycles (all the flames and stuff) - he said to sand back with 400 wet and dry until the sludge turned pink (indicating that I had just hit the color layer), then hit it with 600 and reshoot the clear. I masked the area around the flaw and tried to feather the clear into the old finish but there was still a significant ridge that had to be feathered (starting with 800) before the final color sanding and buff.

Btw - if you used any wax or anything like that in your polish you know you will have problems with subsequent coats of lacquer.

Here are a couple of pictures of mine - it was a hairline crack in just the clear running from the switch (the highlight is on the crack)

Image

after the repair

Image



These users thanked the author Freeman for the post: dzsmith (Sun Nov 29, 2015 3:04 pm)
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