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 Post subject: Removing the Sound board
PostPosted: Sun Dec 12, 2010 7:57 pm 
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Mahogany
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First name: calgar
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i don't know what section to put this in but here goes.

i bought a cheap classical from used ottawa for 30 bucks, the guitar itself is in great shape, except for some small chips on the top. solid back and side laminate top

i would like to replace the laminate top with a new top, does anyone know a good way to remove the soundboard.


i am going through a phase where i buy cheap junk guitars from garage sales and rebuild them


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 6:52 pm 
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First name: Tom
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calgarc: Go to Greven guitars on the web, open the site and look under extras and you will see an excellant tout on doing just this and you will see also just how talanted John Greven is.Good luck with your project,an excellant way to really learn what makes a guitar tick.
Tom

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 9:10 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Calgar, great advice from Tom.
Mess around with those guitars, and you will learn a lot.
Might even make one sound good with your own top!
I know what i'd do to get the top off,
but i'm sure i'd give you some bad advice.
I'll tell you anyway.
I would pull the fret at where the f.b meets the body, cut through the f.b. with a vry fine kerf saw,
rout or get the bindings off, with a
sloane type cutter,
use a hot spatula to un-glue the top, if you can.
Heat the spatula up by some means, heat gun, blow torch, kitchen range?
Save the fretboard extension to re-use.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 23, 2011 9:24 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Cutting the fretboard has dterimental effects. The fretboard extension resists lateral forces the strings exert along the guitar's length, specifically because it extends past the neck joint onto the soundboard.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 23, 2011 10:09 pm 
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Mahogany
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decided not to remove the top... ended up cutting and pressing my own longboard deck haha the guitar doesn't sound bad with the ply top though


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 05, 2011 9:44 am 
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Koa
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Is that a joke or something like that..?

BTW, how do you know B/S are solid wood? Pretty much all industry guitar in a 25 to 1000$ range are laminate B/S and solid top. So it would be very surprising from a company to use solid b/s with a ply top...

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 05, 2011 1:38 pm 
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Mahogany
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Ti-Roux wrote:
Is that a joke or something like that..?

BTW, how do you know B/S are solid wood? Pretty much all industry guitar in a 25 to 1000$ range are laminate B/S and solid top. So it would be very surprising from a company to use solid b/s with a ply top...


i bought the guitar on used ottawa, the orignal guitar was around $260 i googled the model and checked out the numbers, the back and sides were solid and the top was laminate.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2011 9:56 am 
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Koa
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What is the model, just for fun? (you know that you can't always companies on what they say...

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2011 7:30 pm 
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Mahogany
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Ti-Roux wrote:
What is the model, just for fun? (you know that you can't always companies on what they say...


its a citation classical guitar made in montreal. i believe it was made in the seagull factory

Citation 605 Classical
Image
Image


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2011 10:38 pm 
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Koa
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Looks like an old model that they don't make anymore. It's not seagull, cause they don't do nylon string, but it is probably one of the godin's name. Godin, Seagull, Richmond, Norman, Art & lutherie, Simon & Patrick, LaPatrie and SR amps are all divisions of Godin, and are build in Quebec. I know very well the companie since I met Robert Godin, visited the factory, and I have a lutherie teacher who is conceptor for Godin. Maybe yours is an old model, but I can say that all the tops that Godin use are solid Sitka or solid WRCedar. All the sides are ply, and most of the backs are too.

Just check out the edge of the soundboard by the soundhole. Do you see plies or not?

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2011 11:21 pm 
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Mahogany
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Ti-Roux wrote:
Looks like an old model that they don't make anymore. It's not seagull, cause they don't do nylon string, but it is probably one of the godin's name. Godin, Seagull, Richmond, Norman, Art & lutherie, Simon & Patrick, LaPatrie and SR amps are all divisions of Godin, and are build in Quebec. I know very well the companie since I met Robert Godin, visited the factory, and I have a lutherie teacher who is conceptor for Godin. Maybe yours is an old model, but I can say that all the tops that Godin use are solid Sitka or solid WRCedar. All the sides are ply, and most of the backs are too.

Just check out the edge of the soundboard by the soundhole. Do you see plies or not?

i did check,thats how i figured it out, i spent lots of time on google and all i could find out was that it was made in montreal, possiblby by seagull and the B/S was solid, but i could be wrong. either way i only payed 30 bucks for it


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 10:43 am 
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Koa
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A trick to see if B/S are solid: Check out the back by the soundhole, find a defect, a special figure, a larger grain.. and check out if you see the same thing by the outside of the guitar. Same thing for the sides.

And it's not seagull. I told you they don't build nylong string, and never did, but it possibly can be built in the same factory, because as I said, all the godin's trademarks are under the same roof(s). Godin have his headquarters in montréal, but no factories.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 12:04 pm 
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Mahogany
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First name: calgar
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Ti-Roux wrote:
A trick to see if B/S are solid: Check out the back by the soundhole, find a defect, a special figure, a larger grain.. and check out if you see the same thing by the outside of the guitar. Same thing for the sides.

And it's not seagull. I told you they don't build nylong string, and never did, but it possibly can be built in the same factory, because as I said, all the godin's trademarks are under the same roof(s). Godin have his headquarters in montréal, but no factories.


i see :D thanks


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