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PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 8:01 pm 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Mon Apr 05, 2010 8:30 am
Posts: 2
First name: Allan
Last Name: Goldarbit
City: Saint Petersburg
State: Florida
Zip/Postal Code: 33712
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
I am about to embark on my first classical guitar build with an LMI serviced kit. I have built in the past Martin kits with no mold and they have come out well by combining the advice of Martin's own instructions and Cumpiano's book. Lo and behold, my kit shows up with Obrians tutorial using a mold and a construction sequence similar to Martins. I am in the process of building a solara (workboard) to Cumpiano's specifications and was planning to follow his build sequence. I am thinking of adding to the solara a series of removable pegs around the perimeter of the guitar to form a quasi mold on the workboard itself to keep the sides in place. Those of you that have done classicals, have you any ideas? What have you used?

Thanks,

Allan idunno


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 7:45 am 
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Koa
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Joined: Mon Sep 11, 2006 3:56 am
Posts: 848
Location: United States
Hi Allan,

I think there are a number of different ways to go. I use a solera to create and maintain the dome in the top. In addition, I use a series of about 20 movable "pegs" around the periphery to hold the sides in place. I use this solera to glue the fan braces to the top, to glue the tail block to the sides, to connect the sides to the top and to glue the back to the sides. Here is a picture:

Attachment:
Inside g15.jpg


I only use a mold to keep the sides in the proper shape once they have been bent prior to assembly. FYI - I have only made flamenco guitars so far, but I use the same Spanish method of construction as most classical builders use. Let me know if you have questions

Good luck,
Max


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Max Bishop
Brighton, Michigan


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 16, 2010 9:39 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2007 7:05 am
Posts: 9139
Location: United States
First name: Waddy
Last Name: Thomson
City: Charlotte
State: NC
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
I'm with Max! I like building on a solera.

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Waddy Thomson Guitars

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 17, 2010 12:37 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Sat Aug 29, 2009 1:41 am
Posts: 160
I'm still on my first, a classical also, but ive got the box closed up already and I didn't use either. Seemed to go fine. But if I had a choice I would probably go with what Waddy said and use a solera. Helps for getting the arch correct in the braces. I just didn't really have any way of making one, and I didn't feel like buying one. :)


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PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2010 9:54 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2007 7:05 am
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Location: United States
First name: Waddy
Last Name: Thomson
City: Charlotte
State: NC
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
The solera solves all of those little issues with geometry and alignment, that can haunt you later, as you set your instrument up. If it is designed for the proper alignment of neck angle and top doming, it will make you proud. No one has a way of making one. You just cut out the pieces and sand and scrape the parts to the right dimensions. Or, use a plane if you have one. I cut mine out with a jigsaw.

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PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2010 1:33 pm 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Sat May 15, 2010 10:13 am
Posts: 4
First name: John
Last Name: Veracoechea
City: Middle Village
State: NY
Zip/Postal Code: 11379
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Hi Allan,

I'm with Max and Waddy as well on the preference of the Solera, but I think the use of the pegs like Max is a great idea which I plan to adopt. Like you I have used the Cumpiano book primarily and although I've only built 4 guitars to date I think the Solera is preferable, albeit possibly more challenging for construction.

John V


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PostPosted: Sun May 30, 2010 8:46 am 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Sat May 29, 2010 12:07 pm
Posts: 13
First name: Eric
City: Mar del Plata
State: provincia de Buenos Aires
Country: Argentina
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Hello guys...interesting discussion...I have a few questions as well

I am still debating whether to cut dowels in 5 1/2 lengths and use those as a side support for the sides during the assembly process or notch the workboard and make the sliding block assemblies to butt up to the sides. The verdict is still out with me regarding that one. I havent received the book yet so we will see. In Irving Sloans book, their seems to be more focus on the mold fabrication with a cruder form of a workboard that has nails driven into the sides tying up the guitar when gluing the back plate and or the bindings.
My question is do you guys use MDF board or just 3/4 play sandwiched together, or maybe even a combo of the two...what are some good materials? Its better to laminate some pieces of ply or wood and cut the solera out of that then use a fairly thick and wide flat piece adn fabricate the board out of that? I hear laminating some layers of ply and cutting the workboard out of that can avoid some future warping issues? Def dont want a warped workboard....especially not in the humid oceanside climate of eastern Argentina here where I live :roll:

Any suggestions? idunno

By the way this will be my first guitar period...Iam about as green as it gets :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 04, 2010 9:01 am 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Sat May 29, 2010 12:07 pm
Posts: 13
First name: Eric
City: Mar del Plata
State: provincia de Buenos Aires
Country: Argentina
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Other question about the solera...

Wjhy not use just a solid flat peice of oak or another hard wood and build the solera out of that...why the plywood or MDF board laminated? Does this avoid the possibly of the board deforming under moisture? laminated pieces are stronger?

Any comments regarding this...from what I am reading is doesnt explain this too clearly idunno


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 8:24 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2007 7:05 am
Posts: 9139
Location: United States
First name: Waddy
Last Name: Thomson
City: Charlotte
State: NC
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
Stability.

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