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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 6:47 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Sun Jan 27, 2008 5:21 pm
Posts: 251
Location: North Carolina
When I was wrapping up my LMI Dred Kit a few months back, I made a mistake and drilled through the bridge pin holes with out a backing bard. This caused tear out on the EIR Bridge plate. I tried to fix by capping with another piece of bridge plate material and made the bridge plate too thick. This causes issues with the bridge pins seating correctly. I need to remove the bridge plate, but am a bit worried about doing so. I am concerned that I may cause more damage by trying to remove the existing plate. I have tried to work a small plane but came to the conclusion that it would take for ever to plane this off or down to a manageable thickness.

Any advice? Can anyone recommend a good repair person in the Cary / Raleigh, North Carolina area.

Thanks, Greg

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Greg Hatcher
North Carolina


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 9:48 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo
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Joined: Tue Mar 14, 2006 12:41 pm
Posts: 255
Location: Trois-Rivieres
First name: Alain
Last Name: Lambert
City: Trois-Rivieres
State: Quebec
Country: Canada
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Is the finish applied already? If not that should be easy.
What kind of glue?

Look at this: http://frets.com/FRETSPages/Luthier/Technique/Guitar/Structural/NewBridgePlate/newbrplt1.html


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 12:47 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Sun Jan 27, 2008 5:21 pm
Posts: 251
Location: North Carolina
Alain: Thanks. I might can give that a try.

The guitar is finished. The bridge plate was done with either titebond or LMI white - can't recall. I have an access port at the end block that might help with this.

Greg

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Greg Hatcher
North Carolina


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 2:58 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo
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Joined: Tue Mar 14, 2006 12:41 pm
Posts: 255
Location: Trois-Rivieres
First name: Alain
Last Name: Lambert
City: Trois-Rivieres
State: Quebec
Country: Canada
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
The biggest challenge is to not damage the finish with heat. The rest is pretty easy. Titebond or LMI should release with heat.
I made a curved chisel for that purpose with an old file.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 27, 2009 10:17 am 
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Contributing Member
Contributing Member

Joined: Fri Mar 28, 2008 8:35 am
Posts: 348
Location: Spartanburg SC
First name: Richard
Last Name: Sprouse
City: Spartanburg
State: SC
Zip/Postal Code: 29302
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Hi Greg maybe some others can comment on this but I have seen a small thin strip of hardwood maybe 1/2" thick across the area and glue.

richard


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 8:53 am 
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Koa
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Joined: Sat Jul 01, 2006 5:55 am
Posts: 1387
Location: United States
First name: James
Last Name: Bolan
City: Nashville
State: Tennessee
Country: USA
Stew Mac has a bridge plate repair kit that may be worth looking into.
James

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James W Bolan
Nashville Tennessee


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 4:44 pm 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Tue Nov 24, 2009 11:13 pm
Posts: 6
First name: Mason
Last Name: Bridges
City: raleigh
State: nc
Zip/Postal Code: 27604
Country: US
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
GHatcher wrote:
When I was wrapping up my LMI Dred Kit a few months back, I made a mistake and drilled through the bridge pin holes with out a backing bard. This caused tear out on the EIR Bridge plate. I tried to fix by capping with another piece of bridge plate material and made the bridge plate too thick. This causes issues with the bridge pins seating correctly. I need to remove the bridge plate, but am a bit worried about doing so. I am concerned that I may cause more damage by trying to remove the existing plate. I have tried to work a small plane but came to the conclusion that it would take for ever to plane this off or down to a manageable thickness.

Any advice? Can anyone recommend a good repair person in the Cary / Raleigh, North Carolina area.

Thanks, Greg

Darren Riley may be able to help. He is located in Raleigh off of capital.

Here is his site: www.darrenriley.com


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2010 9:20 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Sun Sep 23, 2007 12:39 am
Posts: 1010
Location: United States
too much heat can also open up the top plate seam . dont ask me how I know this idunno eek duh Jody


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 9:07 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2010 10:35 pm
Posts: 2561
Country: USA
Focus: Repair
Status: Professional
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Speci ... Saver.html

Buy this tool. It's called the bridge saver. It works awesome.
I like to make the plugs out of ebony, that way you have the benefit of the lightweight spruce or maple bridge patch, and the hardness and durability of ebony.
I'm thinking about making this a standard thing on my new acoustic builds.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 10:50 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Fri Nov 02, 2007 9:49 am
Posts: 9891
Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
First name: Hesh
Last Name: Breakstone
Country: United States
Status: Professional
I like the bridge plate saver tool that theguitarwhisperer suggested although I have never used it. It looks like a great idea and seems less risky to me than removing the plate on a finished guitar when one has never done it prior.

May have to get me one of these - great suggestion guitarwhisperer! [:Y:]


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 4:51 pm 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Sat Jan 29, 2011 11:18 pm
Posts: 4
First name: Jeffrey
Last Name: Onsrud
City: Fort Atkinson
State: Wisconsin
Zip/Postal Code: 53538
Country: USA
Status: Professional
I own the Stew Mac bridge plate repair kit and it works very well.


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