Official Luthiers Forum!

Owned and operated by Lance Kragenbrink
It is currently Fri Mar 29, 2024 5:18 am


All times are UTC - 5 hours





Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 9 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: My fretboard shaping jig
PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 4:45 am 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Tue Mar 05, 2013 7:30 am
Posts: 202
Location: Central Coast, NSW
First name: Martin
Last Name: Taylor
City: Central Coast
State: NSW
Country: Australia
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I am sure there are more sophisticated jigs/methods out there as I am still a newbie at all this lutherie malarky but I thought I'd show the jig I use for fretboards. Its not my original idea but it may help someone out there. I used to do the fretboard shaping by hand using the Stewmac sanding beam. As I am using Mulga wood (very hard Australian wood) it took about 2-3hrs of solid hand sanding to get the radius. I can now do the bulk of the work with the jig and then just do finishing sanding with the beam. It now takes about 30 minutes all up. It is all made from scraps around the workshop except for the PVC pipe ($5 from the local hardware).


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

_________________
Martin Taylor
http://martintaylorguitars.com.au


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 7:02 am 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2011 1:32 pm
Posts: 3470
First name: Alex
Last Name: Kleon
City: Whitby
State: Ontario
Zip/Postal Code: L1N8X2
Country: Canada
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Very nice, Martin! Do you use a straight bit? I find that I get a much cleaner cut using a mortising bit for this kind of route.

Alex

_________________
"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 7:57 am 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Tue Mar 05, 2013 7:30 am
Posts: 202
Location: Central Coast, NSW
First name: Martin
Last Name: Taylor
City: Central Coast
State: NSW
Country: Australia
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Hi Alex,

well spotted, I have been using a straight bit but I want to experiment with a few different bits to see which works best. I'll try a mortising bit based on your recommendation.

Thanks

Martin

_________________
Martin Taylor
http://martintaylorguitars.com.au


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 8:47 pm 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Fri May 18, 2012 8:35 pm
Posts: 2658
Location: Austin, Texas
First name: Dan
Last Name: Smith
City: Round Rock
State: TX
Zip/Postal Code: 78681
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Martin,
How are you affixing the fretboard to the jig? Double-sided tape?
Dan

_________________
wah
Wah-wah-wah-wah
Wah


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 7:04 am 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Tue Mar 05, 2013 7:30 am
Posts: 202
Location: Central Coast, NSW
First name: Martin
Last Name: Taylor
City: Central Coast
State: NSW
Country: Australia
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Hi Dan,

Yes, I use the thin type of Double sided tape and make sure the base is cleared of all dust and press down really hard before doing anything. I had one disaster when rushing to rout when I hadn't stuck it down well enough. Lesson learned. I also was using a wide bit (19mm) but am now using a 10mm bit. I think I have a lot more control with the smaller bit.

_________________
Martin Taylor
http://martintaylorguitars.com.au


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 1:19 am 
Offline
Koa
Koa

Joined: Sat Aug 04, 2007 10:37 am
Posts: 590
Location: United States
First name: Michael
Last Name: Shaw
City: Phila
State: PA
Zip/Postal Code: 19125
Country: United States
Alex Kleon wrote:
Very nice, Martin! Do you use a straight bit? I find that I get a much cleaner cut using a mortising bit for this kind of route.

Alex

I have found that a bowl and dish cutting bits in the link I posted works well for things like this. The rounder corners of the bit cut with less chance of tear out on radiused surfaces like this. I also use a bit like this when I need to thin down a board that to wide for my combination jointer/planer for electric bodies....Mike

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite ... _sign.html

_________________
Guitars, guitars and more guitars.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 1:23 am 
Offline
Koa
Koa

Joined: Sat Aug 04, 2007 10:37 am
Posts: 590
Location: United States
First name: Michael
Last Name: Shaw
City: Phila
State: PA
Zip/Postal Code: 19125
Country: United States
Martin nice jig....Mike

_________________
Guitars, guitars and more guitars.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 2:04 pm 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Fri Mar 15, 2013 5:31 am
Posts: 219
First name: Bob
Last Name: Orr
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Hi is the radius on the jig rails larger that than the finished radius of your fretboard and if so how do work out the radius of the rails to arrive at say a 12ins radius on the fretboard?

Cheers, Bob


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Apr 14, 2013 6:32 am 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Tue Mar 05, 2013 7:30 am
Posts: 202
Location: Central Coast, NSW
First name: Martin
Last Name: Taylor
City: Central Coast
State: NSW
Country: Australia
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Hi Bob,

The crucial thing isn't the positioning of the rails, it is the curve on the bottom of the box that holds the router. The curve on the box is a 12" radius and the spacing of the rails allows the box to rotate over that radius with enough room for the fretboard under the jig. If the rails were further apart or closer together what would change is the relationship of how far away the fretboard would be from the router bit.

If I wanted to make a fretboard with a 10" radius I would just need to make a new box with that radius on the bottom. I could then use the same jig but would have to adjust the height of the platform under the fretboard so that it reaches the router bit.

Below are 2 pics that should show what I mean.

This is the 12" radius jig. (the one in the pics above)
Image

This is a 10" modification. The only thing that has changed is the radius box that the router is attached to and one of the risers
Image

Hope that helps.

_________________
Martin Taylor
http://martintaylorguitars.com.au


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 9 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 24 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group
phpBB customization services by 2by2host.com