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Downdraft table(pics)
http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=9402		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  Serge Poirier [ Sun Nov 19, 2006 4:37 pm ]
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There you go folks, at the request of my great Pals Ron, Hesh and Billy, here are the pics of what i built, it's made of melamine slides for the dust chute, the grid or screen? is a recycled thing i scrounged somewhere around here, the holes are ~ 1/8" or less in size so they might be too small for an efficient vacuuming effect, i'd really love to hear thoughts and experience on that!TIA






a view from underneath, i think i screwed up there!



In this pic, you can see that i added some plastic blue sheets to help the dust find it's way to the vacuum hose, it also has 2 melamine planks or boards disposed in a "V" in there as well, under the plastic sheets, if i make any sense! here it is:



Thanks for watching

Serge
Author:  Rod True [ Sun Nov 19, 2006 5:03 pm ]
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It's my understanding brother Hesh that a downdraft table should be hooked up to a powerfull enough DC with sufficient CFM (most I would think will require 500-700 cfm, for a small home use one that is) and that they should suck down all of the dust.

This is just my understanding from what I've read. I don't have one, but it would be nice one day.

Of course, take a read over at Bill Penz's site on downdraft tables, it has a very good chart for CFM requirements per table size.
Author:  Rod True [ Sun Nov 19, 2006 5:07 pm ]
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Ha....too funny Hesh....
Author:  Serge Poirier [ Sun Nov 19, 2006 5:16 pm ]
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Thanks Hesh, will give that a read tomorrow since it's getting late for me tonight, thanks bro!

I forgot to check how many CFMs my shop vac does, will check the specs tomorrow also, and thanks for the pad advice!

Good night Hesh and Rod, sweet dreams guys!

Serge
Author:  Andy Zimmerman [ Sun Nov 19, 2006 5:51 pm ]
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Looks awesome mon ami
Boy do need one!!!
Author:  Serge Poirier [ Sun Nov 19, 2006 11:07 pm ]
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Merci Andy mon copain de la lutherie Californienne! , maybe we should all take a look at the link Hesh and Rod posted last night, my DT looks cute but might not be efficient enough tho, will read those texts today and see what adjustments i must make if any!

SergeSerge Poirier39041.2978472222
Author:  Dave Anderson [ Mon Nov 20, 2006 1:34 am ]
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Thanks guys for the info. I should deffinatly build one of these! Serge,I think our shop vacs aren't enough.I have been looking at some of Grizzlys DC's.
LinkDaveAndy39041.4057523148
Author:  Roy O [ Mon Nov 20, 2006 3:10 am ]
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I have no experience with a downdraft table but when I toured Santa Cruz Guitar Co. I was surprised by how big the holes were in their downdraft table (don't remember exaactly about 3/4" to 1") so I asked about it. They told me that they use to have a top w/ smaller holes but it didn't have enough suction so they went to the bigger holes and that increased the suction.
Author:  Serge Poirier [ Mon Nov 20, 2006 5:06 am ]
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Thanks for the link Dave , will look into that, i think Reno-depot sells this DC in Gatineau, will check that up! Thanks!

Great input Roy, will take that into account, thanks to you as well!

Serge
Author:  Billy T [ Mon Nov 20, 2006 5:50 am ]
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I like the idea of an auxilary fan right under the table, that should increase CFM substantially! By using a squirrel cage do you have to clean the cage very much from dust?

Good idea Serge without any windows air quality is important!
Author:  old man [ Mon Nov 20, 2006 7:43 am ]
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That looks really nice, Serge. Let us know how well it performs. Thanks for posting the photos.

Ron
Author:  Serge Poirier [ Mon Nov 20, 2006 10:02 am ]
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Thanks Billy and Ron, i will probably save money and buy me a DC to go along with it and enlarge the cavities, sounds like the way to go after reading what Hesh has posted.
Author:  Serge Poirier [ Mon Nov 20, 2006 3:58 pm ]
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Thanks Hesh, a pic is worth a 1000 words, now that i see it, i remember where i can purchase that stuff, thanks bro!
Author:  JJ Donohue [ Mon Nov 20, 2006 5:55 pm ]
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Hesh...I read somewhere (can't remember where) that the rubberized padding that you show is manufactured using a silicone release agent to assist in its removal from the mold/belt. If so, this can confound bonding and finishing. The article or post cited the stuff they use to line tool box drawers.

While I can't confirm this, I would consider it problematic until proven benign.
Author:  Lillian F-W [ Mon Nov 20, 2006 11:49 pm ]
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There was a thread about this in the last couple of months. Someone was having problems with their finish. Their sanding pad turned out to be the culprit. But if I remember correctly, they were using it as a pad to work off of on their bench. Mario went on to suggest using towels from the dollar store as a pad on the bench.
Author:  JJ Donohue [ Tue Nov 21, 2006 12:13 am ]
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Thanks for the memory jog, Lillian.
Author:  Serge Poirier [ Tue Nov 21, 2006 2:10 am ]
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Thanks folks, Are there any rubber pads with holes out there that do not contain any silicon?
Author:  JJ Donohue [ Tue Nov 21, 2006 2:48 am ]
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FWIW...I'm certain those pads are not made from silicone...it's the silicone mold release (a silicone oil that's sprayed on the mold) that's often used when processing elastomeric products. This is the culprit that can cause us problems. The rubber used is normally a low cost synthetic rubber and usually has a foam-like feel.

Heating blankets are coated with silicone elastomer...a silicone polymer that has high heat resistance. This is a much different animal from the free oil I'm describing. I would be surprised if that elastomeric coating were causing oils to bleed out since the polymer matrix is crosslinked.

If such a pad has an oily feel to it I wouldn't use it...it's probably silicone.

Hesh, yours may be the exception in that it may have been made with a non-silicone mold release.
Author:  Serge Poirier [ Tue Nov 21, 2006 4:54 am ]
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No Hesh, it's ok, we all learn from this, thanks guys, really informative stuff!
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